Exploring Jura: A Hidden Gem for Wine Lovers

For a taste of incredible — and relatively unknown — French wines, head to the picturesque region of Jura.

Discovering Jura’s Hidden Wine Treasures

As we drove along the Route de Trousseau, named after a wine grape that originated in Jura, my guide Loïc Lamy noted the nearby Route de Poulsard. Along the way, we spotted a bus shelter adorned with “SAVAGNIN POWER!” spray-painted beside a raised fist, celebrating another unique wine grape. Behind the shelter lay vineyards, russet and gold under the gunmetal-gray November skies. Thus, the residents of Jura demonstrate their deep appreciation for what truly matters.

Although Jura is not a forgotten corner of France, it is indeed a hidden gem. Of the roughly 89 million people visiting France annually, only a tiny fraction discover this area. As a result, Jura remains an untouched slice of eastern France, nestled between Burgundy and Switzerland, featuring a patchwork of vineyards, rolling hills, and potato farmland.

Meet Neal Rosenthal: A Champion of Jura Wines

Neal Rosenthal, the New York-based wine importer and distributor, invited me to Jura through his travel company, Mad Rose Journeys. In the late 1970s, Rosenthal became one of the first to curate a portfolio of wines rooted in a specific philosophy. He tirelessly sought small, family-owned vineyards in France and Italy that prioritized organic and biodynamic farming methods. In addition, he aimed to showcase wines that genuinely embodied their terroir, a concept now well-established but novel in the U.S. at the time.

Throughout my time in Jura, I repeatedly encountered a unique blend of straightforwardness and humility that defines its character, making the region incredibly appealing.

Culinary Experiences in the Jura Region

Having never visited Jura prior, I realized it was a significant oversight, considering its wines are some of the finest in France. They reflect a long-standing tradition, unblemished by industrial production and international trends. Interestingly, despite their proximity, many of these wines remain unknown outside the region, particularly since Beaune, the heart of Burgundy, is merely an hour away by car.

Moreover, wines crafted from Jura’s native grapes, worthy of political graffiti and street names, can be nothing short of extraordinary. This is partly due to the traditional methods of aging white wines, allowing a thin film of yeast to develop over the surface as they mature. Such “Sous voile” wines offer a savory, saline, oxidative profile that is completely distinctive.

As one of the early advocates of Jura wines back in the mid-1990s, Rosenthal persevered despite many sommeliers initially finding these selections “too damn weird.” It’s worth noting that gaining appreciation for sous voile wines often requires a shift in taste.

During my visit, I learned about the Jura vigneron Michel Gahier, whose wines are imported by Rosenthal. Gahier reflects a deep-rooted legacy, his family residing in Montigny-lès-Arsures since 1525. His modest winery, located behind a simple wooden door, is a true testament to the charm of the region.

Over the course of my visit, the humble nature of the wine producers struck me profoundly. Gahier, despite his impressive background, emphasized maintaining perspective, stating, “You have to be humble at all times. If someone tells you that you’re amazing, remember that it is still just wine.”

Residing in the town of Arbois, my base during the trip, I had the privilege of experiencing Rosenthal’s bed-and-breakfast, La Closerie les Capucines. With elegantly furnished rooms in a 17th-century stone mansion, I was also introduced to the Chef Nomade program, where visiting chefs provide guests with delicious meals paired with exquisite local wines.

This edition, “Jura Meets Langhe,” featured chef Christian Milone who expertly crafted dishes such as agnolotti with butter and sage, alongside a sirloin in red-wine sauce, crowned with shaved white truffles by Tartuflanghe, yet another remarkable discovery by Rosenthal.

My passion for culinary adventures extended to the rich forests of eastern Jura, famed for morel mushrooms. Foragers collect these delicacies and deliver them to local restaurants like Café de L’Abbaye in Baume-les-Messieurs, where I enjoyed a delightful lunch after an invigorating foray into the region.

The town of Baume-les-Messieurs, a picturesque haven surrounded by majestic cliffs, features a ninth-century Benedictine abbey and an array of trails leading to enchanting caves, streams, and waterfalls. The local trout I enjoyed with morels and vin jaune sauce epitomized the delectable regional cuisine, making it an unforgettable dining experience.

After lunch, we traveled a short distance to Domaine de Montbourgeau, signified by stone pillars at its entrance and adorned with a charming red-shingled house where owner Nicole Dériaux resides. As we conversed in her tasting room, she shared the fascinating story behind the town’s name, L’Étoile, revealing its origin through small, star-shaped stones from her vineyard – a stunning details of Jura’s vast geological history.

Dériaux explained how the ancient seabed upon which her vineyards are planted imparts significant character to her wines. As she poured her Domaine de Montbourgeau L’Étoile En Banode, a delightful blend of chardonnay and Savagnin grape, I experienced its elegance, minerality, and a pleasing saline finish.

Continuing my journey through Jura, I encountered Édouard Hirsinger, a fourth-generation chocolatier whose shop is a treasure trove of chocolates and delightful mementos from a century of chocolate making. This incredible stop, located two doors down from Essencia en Arbois, one of the finest cheese and wine shops, showcases an exquisite selection of aged Comté, known for turning nutty and caramelized with time.

On my final day, I met Emeric Foléat, winemaker at Vignerons les Matheny in Mathenay, where he too observed Jura’s ethos and emphasized humility in winemaking. His commitment to authenticity shines through in every bottle, alongside an intuitive, instinct-driven approach—an embodiment of the Jura spirit.

Don’t Miss a Thing in Jura

Where to Stay

La Closerie les Capucines: An elegant B&B set in a 17th-century mansion in the heart of Arbois. Breakfast each morning features local preserves, charcuterie and cheeses, baked goods, and exceptional coffee. The property also includes a swimming pool and sauna.

Where to Eat

Café de L’Abbaye: This restaurant offers traditional Jura cuisine in a rustic setting within Baume-les-Messieurs. Be sure to try any dish featuring morels and vin jaune sauce.

Essencia en Arbois: This top-notch cheese and wine shop sells an aged Comté that’s worth the trip – it can even be vacuum-packed for easier transport. The wine selection features both renowned and up-and-coming local producers. 44 Grand Rue, Arbois

Hirsinger: Édouard Hirsinger’s acclaimed shop in Arbois showcases an impressive chocolate selection, accompanied by a mini-museum dedicated to his family’s chocolate-making legacy.