Exploring the Italian Lakes: Tradition Meets Modernity
As we delve into our travel writing archives, we highlight the evolution of the Italian Lakes region, showcasing both its timeless traditions and contemporary changes. This nostalgic reflection from 2012 by writer and historian Alex von Tunzelmann portrays the spirit of the locals who preserve centuries-old customs.
The picturesque scenery is reminiscent of a vibrant medieval manuscript. The clear waters of the Italian lakes shimmer under the sun, surrounded by elegant villas nestled among cypress trees and wisteria. Towering above, the majestic Alps rise through the clouds against a backdrop of azure sky. A charming boat traverses to a stunning palace set on an island. Nowadays, however, while the landscape may seem idyllic, it’s likely to be dotted with luxury cars rather than pastoral life.
The lakeside has long attracted the wealthy and famous, yet in recent years, the influx has reached new heights. George Clooney has become synonymous with the area, particularly in Laglio, his adopted hometown on the shores of Lake Como. His presence has transformed local perceptions, to the extent that some might jest about renaming the town Clooneyville, especially given its cinematic history as a backdrop for renowned films like Ocean’s Twelve and Casino Royale.
For families who have lived here for generations, these changes bring both benefits and challenges. The financial influx from tourists supports local employment, yet the rising cost of living threatens traditional lifestyles. Across the lakes region, particularly along the Italian-Swiss border, cherished customs and crafts are increasingly vulnerable. Nevertheless, amid the designer boutiques and fast cars, many locals remain dedicated to preserving their proud heritage.
The Boatbuilder: Crafting Tradition on Lake Como
“George Clooney is a great advertisement for the region,” remarks Daniele Riva, whose family has been crafting boats on Lake Como since 1771. “However, it’s increasingly difficult for longtime residents in Laglio, as high rents have made housing unaffordable for many.”
In 1951, Daniele’s family introduced the Riva, an iconic motorboat crafted from polished cedar. His workshop is a mixture of boats in various stages of construction and restoration, filling the air with a fragrant resinous aroma.
“Boatbuilding is a small but rewarding industry,” Daniele shares while sanding a vintage Riva. “My children, aged nine and four, already have a passion for boats. If they choose to take over, I’m confident Rivas will continue to be made here for generations.”
The Winemaker: Reviving Old Traditions
The winding roads that ascend toward the Swiss border reveal a different side of the Italian Lakes. Here, away from the glamour, a more traditional way of life flourishes among the scenic landscapes.
At the northern end of Lake Como, vineyards stretch across hillsides, where Daniele Travi’s family has cultivated their estate for over 200 years. Though nearing retirement, Daniele energetically climbs the slopes to showcase ancient vines, some as thick as a person’s thigh.
“Initially, this was just a hobby,” Daniele explains, having started out as a metallurgist. “Yet now, it has evolved into a thriving business that respects tradition.”
Among his efforts, Daniele is reintroducing the rosseia, a rare grape variety that has historical roots in the region. Its near-extinction during the industrial era is now being reversed, reflecting a renewed commitment to heritage.
The Cook: Culinary Delights in Ticino
Driving south from the lakes leads to Ticino, where culinary delights await. Known for its distinct Alpine charm, this enchanting area offers a taste of authentic Ticinese cuisine.
Grotto Pierino, a quaint restaurant near San Gottardo church, serves traditional fare that embodies the local culture. Maria, who now runs the establishment, emphasizes the importance of maintaining family recipes and hospitality.
“In a grotto, the food must reflect Ticinese traditions,” Maria states. The menu features homemade dishes like minestrone and hearty polenta. Lunchtimes at Grotto Pierino are bustling with laughter and camaraderie, reflecting a strong sense of community.
The Puppet Makers: Crafting Dreams in Bedigliora
In Bedigliora, a quaint village, twin sisters Giannina and Angela have turned their passion for puppetry into an enchanting craft. Their home, adorned with frescoes of Pinocchio, is filled with whimsical characters that showcase their creativity and talent.
“Each puppet is unique, reflecting our personalities,” shares Angela. This craft has brought them closer to their local roots, as many of their puppets are inspired by beloved community figures.
The Fishers: Sustaining Tradition on Lake Maggiore
Lake Maggiore offers a quieter, more traditional fishing experience. Daniele Ruffoni recalls how fishing is dwindling, with fewer young people entering the trade. He and his mate Stefano continue to haul in wild whitefish, but they lament the changing tides of the fishing industry.
“Most of the fish are now farmed,” Daniele reflects, recognizing the evolution of local industry. Nonetheless, he cherishes the camaraderie shared among the remaining fishermen.
The Sculptor: Revitalizing Candoglia Marble
In Candoglia, the art of marble sculpting thrives. Lino Rossini, a skilled craftsman, carries on the legacy of extracting Candoglia marble, an integral material for the Duomo in Milan. He skillfully restores historical pieces, ensuring that the beauty and craftsmanship remain alive for future generations.
The Baker: Preserving Family Recipes in Mergozzo
In the charming town of Mergozzo, Patrizia Baroni’s bakery continues a family tradition originally started by her parents. Along with her husband Giordano, they craft delicious fugascina biscuits that are a staple of the community.
“During the feast of St. Elizabeth, everyone shares their homemade pastries,” Giordano notes. Their passion for baking and commitment to handmade quality is evident in every delicious bite.
Across the Italian Lakes, while modern influences are undeniable, the heart and soul of the region remain grounded in its cherished traditions. As locals adapt to the changing landscape, they continue to embrace their rich heritage, ensuring it endures for generations to come.
