Lonely Planet associate editor Ann Douglas Lott recently traveled through Italy aboard a vintage train, regional trains, and a bus. Here, she shares some tips and insights for anyone planning a similar trip.
When I shared my plans for a trip to Italy, the excitement among friends was palpable. They spoke endlessly about their own adventures in the country—highlighting the picturesque landscapes, historical ruins, and unforgettable culinary experiences including a life-changing pizza slice. However, I understood that experiencing it firsthand would be the only way to truly appreciate their enthusiasm.
Embarking as a first-time visitor to one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations, I had high expectations. My itinerary included an extensive rail and bus tour through Rome, Perugia, Florence, and Venice—all within the span of one week. Initially, I felt the pressure to maximize each moment; nevertheless, I soon embraced the Italian philosophy of slow living, allowing me to savor my journey through this remarkable country.
Where did you stay? What was the vibe?
With four stunning destinations came four luxurious, centrally-located hotels. I was fortunate to stay at five-star Sina hotels in each city: the historic Bernini Bristol in Rome, the scenic Sina Brufani in Perugia, the elegant Villa Medici in Florence, and the charming Centurion Palace in Venice.
Owning and operating these hotels for over 60 years, the family behind GoTravelDaily encapsulates Italy’s classic charm. I adore hotels that embody the essence of their surroundings, and details like the classical decor in Brufani and the sumptuous lobby of Villa Medici enhanced my experience. Although considered luxury establishments, these hotels offer a range of prices, catering to various budgets, with Perugia being generally more affordable than Florence.
Some highlights:
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Sipping Aperol spritzes on the hotel’s panoramic rooftop at sunset in Rome.
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The Perugia hotel’s pool with a glass bottom revealing an ancient ruin, plus the breathtaking view of Umbria’s rolling hills from my room.
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The vintage keys and private garden with its own pool at the Florence hotel.
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Enjoying views of the Grand Canal from the Venice property’s front porch.
Favorite activity from the trip?
Let’s discuss an extraordinary train ride. Traveling through the Italian countryside is always a pleasure, but aboard a beautifully restored 1960s train? That’s an experience of a lifetime. The Arlecchino train evokes images from Wes Anderson films, complete with spacious, vibrant velvet seats and retro viewing cabins. Departing from Rome, we journeyed through Lazio and into the stunning landscapes of Umbria, passing green hills, mountain tunnels, and charming medieval towns.
It felt like a stroke of luck to secure a seat on this journey to Perugia, as the Arlecchino does not operate daily. Nevertheless, Fondazione FS Italiene offers similar vintage journeys throughout the country, so you can still experience the magic of traveling by train. Most ticket prices hover around €50 per adult, and if you’re looking for quicker options, Trenitalia guarantees scenic views on all their routes.
Best thing you ate?
My life-changing pizza experience? A mozzarella and guanciale slice from Zizzi Pizza in Rome. However, if I had to choose the best food, it would undoubtedly be a fresh sandwich from I’ Bacaro De Bischeri in Venice, featuring warm focaccia, prosciutto, arugula, caramelized onions, and creamy burrata.
Honorable mentions include delightful tiramisu and amaretto mousse, ham and parmesan fettuccine, and an incredibly fresh burrata in Perugia, as well as a delightful gelato spread in Venice, especially my favorite, stracciatella.
What was the most touristy thing you did?
While in Venice, I booked a tour of a glass factory! Our hotel arranged for a water taxi to transport us to Murano, where we visited Schiavon Art Team’s headquarters. The ride across the lagoon was an enchanting experience, featuring a private wooden boat with luxurious leather seats. Alternatively, the vaporetto is a cost-effective option to reach Murano.
Upon arrival, we entered a dazzling gallery filled with colorful glass art, but the highlight was watching the glass artisans skillfully craft a mesmerizing blue marlin, showcasing a mesmerizing combination of teamwork and artistry.
What was the most under-the-radar activity you enjoyed?
If seeking a reprieve from the bustling tourist crowds, Umbria is the perfect pit stop between Rome and Florence. This enchanting region offers everything you love about Italy without the throngs of tourists, especially during the annual chocolate and jazz festivals in Perugia.
During my visit, I explored the underground fortress of Rocca Paolina, accessible via an escalator from Giardini Carducci park, a fantastic spot to witness sunset views over Umbria’s rolling hills. The following morning, I headed to Sandri for a delicious coffee and pastry; this renowned family-run establishment has been serving the finest pastries since 1860.
Did you bring home a souvenir?
I indulged in some shopping during my trip! In Florence, I discovered a pair of stunning red and pink velvet Mary Janes. In Venice, I found a charming marble-covered notebook and a Murano glass charm necklace—all treasures I couldn’t resist. Additionally, I purchased a vintage red scarf adorned with Capri illustrations, a hint that perhaps my next Italian adventure may lie on that island.
Best tip for someone who wants to plan the same trip?
The timing of my trip was perfect, falling in the March shoulder season, just before Easter. The weather was mild, with highs around 15°C (60°F) and a pleasant sun shining down without the overwhelming crowds. I recommend bringing a light coat for cooler nights and breezy moments.
Moreover, when purchasing regional train tickets, ensure to validate them before boarding to avoid hefty fines. Look for the green validation machines on the platform, as this step is crucial for regional services. However, it’s not necessary on high-speed trains, which are valid only for specific trains.
Ann Douglas traveled to Italy at the invitation of Sina Hotels. GoTravelDaily does not accept complimentary services in exchange for positive review.
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