Summary
The Chiloé archipelago is considered part of the Northern Patagonia area of Chile as well as the southernmost reaches of the Lake District or Region X, Los Lagos. The Isla Grande, or Big Island, is a verdant, forested island of great natural beauty and is the second-largest Chilean island and the only one settled.
History and Mystery
The home of the Huilliche Indian tribe, the island was settled by the Spaniards, who found it a hardship post since supply ships from the Viceroyalty of Peru arrived only once a year. The locals sustained themselves by farming and fishing, much like the current residents.
The eastern side of the island, facing the mainland of Chile across the Golfo de Ancud in the north and Golfo de Corcovado in the south, features a myriad of coves and inlets. The offshore islands serve as a haven for wildlife. Conversely, the western side of the island, facing the Pacific Ocean, is remote with only two roads leading to it, and the interior remains heavily forested.
Moreover, part of the attraction of Chiloé lies in its wealth of mystery and folkloric legends that permeate the misty reaches of the forest and remote beaches. This mythical lore results from a cultural mix of ethnic beliefs and the Catholic faith introduced to the island. Ghost ships, goblins, and witches who feast on recently interred corpses populate the legends. Two popular tales include the beautiful nude mermaid, La Pincoya, who lures men to the sea, and a short, squat troll, El Trauco, who entices women into the forest and impregnates them.
Isolated for many years, the residents, called Chilotes, developed self-reliance; however, many have left the island for a more stable lifestyle. Those who remain actively perpetuate their traditions and are gradually building up a tourist infrastructure. Consequently, Chiloé is becoming an increasingly popular destination for walking, biking, fishing, paddling, and birding.
Towns and Landmarks
Chiloé boasts three main towns: the new capital Ancud in the north, Castro, the former capital, in the east, and Quellón at the southern tip, which provides most of the island’s tourism amenities. However, a visit to the smaller communities, especially to explore the island’s many churches built by the Jesuits and later the Franciscans, is well worth your time. There are several hundred wooden churches, notable for their construction with pegs instead of nails, many of which are listed as cultural heritage sites by UNESCO.
- The wooden Iglesia San Francisco de Castro on the Plaza de Armas brightens the day with its colorful exterior.
- The Museo Regional de Castro displays an eclectic mix of Huilliche relics, farming equipment, and modern items.
- See the famous palafitos, or stilt houses, along the waterfronts and mudflats.
- Many of the buildings on Chiloé are covered with wooden shingles called tejuelas cut from the Alerce tree to withstand the rain.
- The Feria Artesanal, along the waterfront, offers local handicrafts, particularly woolens and basketry.
- The annual Festival Costumbrista Chilote, held in February, celebrates the island’s folklore and legends.
- Rent a kayak to paddle around the islands or take a boat tour to observe the diverse avian life and marine colonies on the islands further offshore. Several tour agencies offer river and sea kayaking adventures.
- In Ancud, founded in 1767 to protect the coastline, you will find the Museo Regional de Aurelio Börquez Canobra, also known as the Museo Chilote or Regional Museum, showcasing a diverse array of ethnographic and historical items, photographs, and folkloric representations. Art, maps, and scale models of the various churches are particularly fascinating. The gift shop offers woolens, carvings, and pottery, alongside some local shops.
Parque Nacional Chiloé
This pristine woodland on the western side of the island consists of native and coniferous trees, appearing much as it did during Charles Darwin’s visit. In summer, it is a popular destination for hiking and horseback riding, where visitors may encounter various species of wildlife, including the Chiloé fox, pudu, and hundreds of bird species, notably the Chiloe Wigeon (Anas sibilatrix). Here are must-see attractions within the park:
- CONAF Visitor Center features displays of flora and fauna, Huilliche exhibits, early mining industry artifacts, and local folklore.
- The Museo Artesanal, located in a traditional Chilote house, exhibits farm implements and household artifacts. Note the distinctive fireplace in the center of the room. Many houses had reed-filled walls which were prone to burning.
- The penguin colony is the sole location where Humboldt and Magellanic penguins coexist.
- The Sendero Interpretativo El Tepual is a winding trail through the forest, perfect for nature walks.
- The Sendero Dunes de Cucao leads to dunes on a white sand beach, continuing on to a Huilliche community at Lago Huelde, complete with rustic shacks and camping options.
When to Go
Chiloé experiences a maritime climate characterized by dampness, changeability, and mild conditions. The west coast tends to be more inclement, while the east coast is more sheltered and milder.
Charles Darwin remarked, “In winter the climate is detestable, and in summer it is only a little better. The winds are very boisterous, and the sky almost always clouded; to have a week of fine weather is something wonderful.”
Water-resistant footwear is highly recommended for anyone planning to walk on the soft and swampy terrain. While summer (December to March) brings larger crowds exploring the Patagonia fjords, Chiloé stands as a year-round destination. Visiting in summer, when flowers bloom and numerous towns celebrate their local fiestas, is especially delightful.
Getting There
Travel to Chiloé is relatively straightforward, with bus and ferry services operating from Puerto Montt to Ancud, via Pargua on the mainland and Chacao on the island. During this thirty-minute trip, keep an eye out for dolphins, sea lions, cormorants, pelicans, and penguins. The ferry ride is incorporated into the bus ticket price. Additional ferry options include routes from Chaitén on the Carretera Austral to Quellón and from Puerto Chacabuco, along with small airports located in Castro and Quellón.
Dining
Don’t miss the abundant seafood and traditional curanto. This dish is prepared traditionally in a hole in the ground over hot rocks, featuring an assortment of mussels, clams, beef, pork, chicken, sausage, and potatoes, complemented by chewy pancakes known as milcaos. A variation cooked in a pot is also available at restaurants, referred to as pulmay.
