Things to Do in Des Moines During the Iowa Caucuses

It’s caucus time in Iowa – the first state to cast its votes to nominate a Presidential candidate – and 2020 promises to blow all precedents and records out of the water.

The remaining Democratic hopefuls and a couple of Republicans (unlike some other states, the Iowa Republican party is not cancelling its primary in 2020) are descending on the Hawkeye state and into Iowans’ living rooms and backyards, coffee shops and bars to pitch their credentials and plans voter-by-voter. According to the Des Moines Register, in the six months leading up to the February 3 caucus, there will be 2,500 candidate visits. That’s a lot of handshaking and camera opportunities!

If you’re headed to Iowa to support your candidate – or even moving there to work on a campaign – chances are you’ll find your way to Des Moines, the state capital and the epicenter of caucus politics. Moreover, there’s no shortage of things to keep you entertained and occupied while you are there.

Get outfitted, and soak up the history

The first stop for any left-leaning political enthusiast is a visit to Raygun, an Iowa-owned mainstay for stocking up on t-shirts, stickers, and other swag, both political and apolitical. It’s located in Des Moines’ small but vibrant Historic East Village, just across the Des Moines River on Grand Ave. Inside, Mars Coffee Bar serves up excellent brews.

While in the East Village, take time to explore. Once-vacant lots and troubled buildings have been transformed into a cozy stretch of independently owned shops, bars, and restaurants, overseen by the grandly ornate State Capitol. A visit to Permanent Collection, a letterpress and design studio owned by a graduate of the University of Iowa’s Center for the Book, is worthwhile; also stop by Sticks Gallery, a unique Iowa design studio filled with whimsically painted woodwork; and Pink Print and Domestica, which specialize in stationary and paper products. Additionally, check out Marv’s Music for vinyl treasures. To go beyond candidate t-shirts, visit the women’s boutique Velvet Coat, and recharge at Scenic Route Bakery.

Des Moines’ turn-of-the-20th-century heyday is evident in its magnificent Beaux Arts architecture. Highlights include the State Capitol, the Hall of Laureates (originally a public library), and the Polk County Courthouse. Terrace Hill, the 1869 governor’s mansion, is open to the public, and the Iowa Architecture Foundation offers seasonal walking tours of the city.

Off the campaign trail, onto an outdoor trail

Though it’s difficult to escape the political fervor in Iowa during caucus season – simply wearing a candidate’s button can spark conversations with strangers – city parks and bike trails offer a welcome respite. Water Works Park, made up of 1,500 acres of fields and woods bisected by the Raccoon River, provides trails and several picnic areas.

Downtown, just west of the business district, the Pappajohn Sculpture Park showcases an impressive collection of massive pieces by internationally acclaimed artists, including Willem de Kooning and Sol Lewitt. Surrounded by restaurants and bars, it’s a lovely spot to unwind.

Further west on Grand, Greenwood/Ashworth Park hugs the recommended Des Moines Arts Center. With contemporary wings designed by I.M. Pei and Richard Meier in 1968 and 1985 respectively, the museum houses a remarkable collection featuring artists like Edward Hopper, Jean-Michel Basquiat, and Jeff Koons. The rose garden on-site is perfect for a leisurely picnic.

Des Moines boasts a straightforward network of pleasant trails, 20 BCycle rental stations, and easy access to rural Iowa biking routes. The primarily scenic Great Western Trail heads south from Water Works Park, following an old railroad bed for 17 miles to Martensdale. At Cumming, about nine miles in, consider stopping by the friendly Iowa Distilling Company for small-batch spirits; beyond that point, it’s just fields and woodlands. For those needing rentals, Bike Country is about 12 miles north of downtown in Ankeny, serving as the nearest outlet for road and mountain bike rentals.

Refuel with Des Moines’ surprising food scene

Clusters of excellent restaurants can be found in the East Village, the blocks surrounding the Sculpture Park, and along Ingersoll Ave between 24th and 31st Streets. Consider trying Alba for creative American, A Dong’s for Vietnamese, upscale Harbinger, local favorite Palmer’s Market (great for breakfast), and Trellis Café, located within the Botanical Gardens. Further afield, Drake Diner offers 50s diner classics, contemporary twists, and cocktails.

The Cheese Shop, a tiny gem in the 1933 strip-mall Shops at Roosevelt, brings an old-world European vibe. The cheesemonger happily offers tastes of its exceptionally curated artisan offerings, along with a selection of meats (try the hand-carved La Quercia acorn-fed ham) and a fine wine selection. A sister restaurant is on Ingersoll Ave.

Next door, La Mie Bakery offers delicious baguettes, sandwiches, and pastries. For a broader range, including fried chicken, salads, and an organic grocery, Gateway Market is fantastic. If you need to hunker down with your laptop while powered by strong coffee, head to Smoky Row Coffee.

Celebrate – or commiserate – at a local watering hole

On those days when polls and canvassing leave you wanting to drown your sorrows or raise a glass to good news, Des Moines has a lively bar scene.

Downtown’s Court District serves as the city’s main bar area, while those preferring a chill vibe may head back to the East Village. At Up-Down, enjoy cocktails and pizza alongside vintage pinball, ski-ball, and ’80s arcade classics like Pac-Man and Frogger.

The small Locust Tap, characterized by peeling columns, a foaming beer neon sign, and graffiti-laden interior, offers a quintessential dive atmosphere, perfect for enjoying a beer and a game of pool. For cocktails, the narrow brick-walled Continental Lounge is recommended. In fact, its Bulleit Rye Sazerac may just be the ultimate political elixir.