Exploring Ischia: An Italian Island Adventure
Ischia is a small, yet densely populated, volcanic island located just one hour from Naples by ferry, or 40 minutes by hydrofoil. However, advice to travelers is to avoid the hydrofoil.
I won’t oversimplify our experience, being two practical and efficiency-oriented Londoners who opted for the swift route to Ischia and a leisurely journey back. The essence of the island certainly influenced our perspective, urging us to appreciate even the minor details of our travel time. All I truly want to convey is that the hydrofoil is an unreliable mode of transport, and one may feel coerced into choosing it.
A hydrofoil essentially operates as a boat on stilts. Its method of launching over the waves may sound intriguing, but it becomes an uncomfortable reality when experienced firsthand. Upon seating, travelers are often handed a blue plastic bag for sickness, raising immediate concern:
“Will I need this?” I inquired.
What followed was hollow laughter, indicating my concern was valid.
Although I managed to avoid vomiting, the experience is turbulent. Tourists grip their knees in fear while local commuters snooze in tranquility. Riding the hydrofoil compares to being inside a paint mixer at a hardware store—an exhilarating yet frightful experience.
Ischia: A Hidden Gem
Upon arrival, we found ourselves on Ischia, an island relatively unknown to non-Italian visitors until Elena Ferrante mentioned it in her renowned Neapolitan novel series. Additionally, increased flight routes via Ryanair have attracted more attention.
Geographically close to Capri and Sorrento, Ischia offers a unique and relaxed atmosphere. Here, one encounters fewer celebrities and more quintessential local life: boisterous Italian conversations and the serene presence of elderly men. We found a beachside cottage for about £40 a night, situated perfectly for sunset views.
During our stay, the weather remained pleasantly warm, and although the summer crowd was yet to arrive, the island’s charm was evident. Our neighbors, primarily retired Italians, either resided in their weekend homes or spent half the year here. The sounds of renovation and spirited conversations surrounded us, punctuated by lone figures gazing out from neighbouring windows, bearing a subtle melancholic ambiance.
Simple Joys and Local Flavors
Our days followed a simple rhythm: waking up early, brewing coffee, and hitting the beach. Lunch consisted of affordable freshly made pizza paired with local beer. Dining out proved pricier than initially anticipated, typical of charming seaside towns where unexpected extras appear on the bill.
Fortunately, our own kitchen allowed us to exploit local Ischian ingredients. We relished the most popular Italian delicacies including rich olive oil, vibrant tomatoes, and strong garlic. Cooking at home not only satisfied our culinary cravings, but it also diverted our limited travel budget towards an incredible experience: renting a speedboat.
At the marina, we encountered efficient young men willing to rent a boat for a day in exchange for a driving license and about 100 euros, after some negotiation. Whether or not you possess sailing skills is irrelevant; if you can navigate a bumper car, you can manage a boat. This represents one of the best ways to explore the island.
We found pleasant bays for swimming, quaint towns like Forio just a half-hour away, where we could anchor and enjoy the stunning scenery with a selection of other boats sharing the ocean’s tranquility.
Embracing Freedom and Joy
This experience provided a contrasting thrill to the unsettling hydrofoil ride—an exhilarating freedom emerges when enjoying a cold beer on the open water, sharing pizza on a sunny street, or witnessing an impromptu fireworks display.
Do you need this experience to truly understand Ischia? To quote my Ischian boat driver: “I don’t know. Maybe.”
