Downtown L.A. Hotel Suite Featuring an Impressive Indoor Pool

The hands-down coolest hotel suite in Los Angeles right now can be found at the Kelly Wearstler–designed Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel.

Entering the foyer of the Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel is a bit like stepping into a fantasy. Through the pink portal we go, an arched canopy of wondrous Mexican folk creatures and kaleidoscopic color painted by artist Abel Macias. General manager Stephane Lacroix whisks us into the elevator where he presses 7. We might not have discovered this hotel’s singular Pool Suite had he not escorted us, since Proper’s version of a presidential is unmarked, with its dark double doors so exclusive as to be anonymous. “You have to know to know,” he remarks. This inconspicuous nature is precisely what guests spending $10,000 per night appreciate, like the global entertainer power couple who booked it for Valentine’s Day.

The wow moment unfolds as soon as the door clicks open to unveil a 35-foot-long pool, all tropical-sky blue and trimmed in black tile, paired with a monumental Ben Medansky tile wall backdrop that transforms the pool into a stunning work of art. The textured motifs lightly reflected on the water’s surface feel simultaneously ancient and contemporary, conveying geometric messages that add both quirk and soul. Curvy tiles echo the sensuous shapes of the furniture, collected into welcoming and moodily lit vignettes, featuring wildly comfortable chairs — some vintage, others custom designed by Kelly Wearstler, the creative mastermind behind the entire property’s lush, handmade aesthetic.

It feels like we’re in a secret underground swim club, yet with daylight streaming in all afternoon from a wall of windows and our own playlist playing via Bluetooth on the suite’s surround sound speakers. From the huggable leather chairs at the end of the pool to the cavelike pink plaster living room nook and the deep bedroom sofa, there are numerous plush places to relax, making it challenging to decide where to start. Without a doubt, this suite is made for celebrating, with a bottle of Champagne chilling on ice atop the wooden dining table. Consequently, we eagerly change into swimsuits and pop one open. It becomes clear that a pool suite can transform any regular day into a memorable occasion. Today, ours is a party for two and a half, with our 11-month-old thrilled to ride the miniature flamingo pool float resting temptingly by a vintage biomorphic wood sculpture near the pool steps.

Our first family dip is glorious and refreshing. At 82 degrees, the pool is heated but definitely not hot. While swimming, I immerse myself in the splendor of our private pool, recognizing that it feels like the ultimate luxury — even more so in a surprising location such as downtown Los Angeles.

This West Hollywood Hotel Gave Their ‘Panorama Suite’ a $300,000 Makeover — Sunset Strip Views Included

As the day progresses, this massive aquamarine gem becomes the focal point — in the best possible way. I am constantly drawn to it and desire to be around it, if not submerged in it. At night, tinted light dances on the Medansky wall, seemingly inviting me to strip down and slip into the water. However, this urge arises while we are wrapping up dinner — enjoying in-room dining, since why would we leave such a divine space? I am so full of yellow tomato campechana (a fantastically bright seafood-studded gazpacho), piri piri chicken, savory Brussels sprouts, and silky pistachio flan that I’m convinced I would cramp if I entered the alluring water. This statement does not account for the Tempranillo we indulged in, chosen from a list featuring Spanish varietals, in keeping with the themes of star chef Suzanne Goin’s Caldo Verde and Cara Cara restaurants.

Moreover, it’s partly for this reason that the original pool depth was dramatically altered during the renovation of this 1926 California Renaissance Revival building into the current 147-room boutique hotel. What was once a YWCA pool was a staggering 12 feet deep. (Another remnant from that time became the Proper Basketball Court Suite.) Lacroix joked that the suite would have needed a lifeguard for him to sleep restfully at night. Without such supervision, however, it remained our responsibility to remember that classic pool rule: no running. In this opulent retreat, after all, the pool deck is magnificently adorned with Italian villa–inspired pink and purple marble tile.

The bedroom, behind a heavy door at the end of a hallway off the main space, exudes a secretive vibe. It offers a spacious yet cozy sanctuary in serene blues and sunny golds that nudges guests into total relaxation mode, especially as I sink, wrapped in a Parachute robe, into the cloudlike bed, ornately upholstered in a lovely woven fabric reminiscent of ocean waves.

The following morning, we finally emerge from our aquatic hideaway — after a lazy swim with our baby, followed by a hot rinse in the two-head double shower enveloped in custom tile. Breakfast downstairs at Caldo Verde, a restaurant as stunning as the Portuguese-Spanish infused food it serves, is worth the experience. I am careful not to overindulge on the carnitas, sweet potato hash, and a decadent pecan sticky bun because yet another swimming pool is beckoning on the rooftop. Although this one may be smaller — more of a spa pool for soaking — it compensates with breathtaking views of downtown L.A. extending below.

After a bit, I begin to miss our own poolside vintage chairs and little flamingo floaty, prompting our return. As I take my fifth plunge in 24 hours, I recognize that this transcends merely being a presidential suite. Those suites often seem showy, highlighting top-floor status, extensive space (although this suite does boast ample room at 2,777 square feet), and number of bathrooms. This unmarked accommodation, however, offers not just real personality and character, thanks to Wearstler, but also a luxurious water experience. It is evident: The Pool Suite is not only the most unique but also the most special suite in this city of dreamers.