Striking antelopes found nowhere else on earth, the world’s quirkiest bird, Africa’s second biggest wildebeest migration, and the legend of a celebrity lioness. All this is set amid beguiling backdrops of vast golden savannah and a labyrinth of lily-strewn waterways. These rare wildlife safari riches are shared between the remote and largely unvisited Zambian reserves of Bangweulu Wetlands and Liuwa Plain National Park.
Bangweulu Wetlands in Zambia’s east and Liuwa Plain National Park in the Western Province, once both decimated through poaching, are now experiencing a remarkable resurgence thanks to the conservation organization African Parks. Managing 11 parks in eight countries (Benin, Central African Republic, Chad, Democratic Republic of Congo, Congo, Malawi, Rwanda, and Zambia), this non-profit NGO is renowned for its ability to transform beleaguered reserves into thriving, sustainable destinations. Consequently, Bangweulu and Liuwa are now blossoming, making a wildlife safari in either an incredible experience.
Bangweulu Wetlands
Bangweulu means ‘where water meets the sky’, a fitting name for Zambia’s answer to the Okavango Delta. Its landscape spans 6,000 sq km of watery wilderness, featuring glass-like lakes, lotus-covered canals, and papyrus-fringed waterways. Home to unique birds and wildlife, this remote wetland offers an allure of its own.
Bangweulu is the best place to see the quirky, prehistoric-looking shoebill, a prized sighting for birdwatchers. Gawky yet strangely enigmatic with spindly legs and a sharp beak, these avian giants are frequently spotted on the papyrus islands of the Bulanda swamps. With wingspans of around 2.5m, they seem to defy gravity while soaring. Additionally, they remain remarkably still when fishing, almost resembling statues as they wait to lunge at their prey.
Around 80-100 shoebills inhabit Bangweulu, the second largest population after the Sudd wetlands in South Sudan. Between April and June, local fishers living in reed huts along the waterfront will guide visitors in banana boats or dugout canoes to find these elusive birds. With their expertise, they know precisely where to locate them. The nesting season, occurring from August to October, offers another opportunity for sightings. Classified as vulnerable, shoebills face risks from poaching, habitat loss, and being sold as exotic pets. To combat this, African Parks employs fishermen as ‘shoebill guardians’ to protect them.
Aside from shoebills, an astonishing 680 other bird species frequent the Bangweulu Wetlands, among them wattled cranes, pelicans, swamp flycatchers, and blue-throated bee-eaters. Wildlife is equally diverse, with buffalo, zebras, elephants, sitatunga, reedbucks, oribi, and tsessebe all residing in the floodplains. Furthermore, hartebeest, impalas, and pukus have recently moved into the area thanks to African Parks’ relocations.
However, the main antelope attraction here is the black lechwe, an elegant creature with a dark shimmering coat that is found nowhere else in the world. They are easy to spot—approximately 50,000 lechwe thrive on the sodden grasslands, splashing through remnant floodwaters as they feast on the nutritious grasses of the Chimbwi Plains.
Ways to enjoy a wildlife safari
Similar to enjoying a safari in Botswana, how you choose to explore these wondrous wetlands depends greatly on the season. From January to April, expect serious wet season conditions with nearly submerged plains, making boat and canoe rides your primary options. As the waters begin to recede in May, walking amongst the lechwe on the floodplains becomes a delightful possibility. Given the absence of predators, Bangweulu is an ideal walking destination, and its flat terrain is perfect for cycling. From October to December, traditional wildlife safari drives become the preferred method of exploration.
Where to sleep
Check in at the recently rebuilt Shoebill Camp, a high-end lodge run by African Parks, which is the only accommodation available in Bangweulu. Alternatively, consider a stay at the simple yet beautiful Nsobe Community Campsite, managed by the local community on the Chimbwi Plains.
Liuwa Plain National Park
Liuwa Plain is mesmerizingly beautiful, featuring expansive golden plains dotted with vivid blue pools, vibrant carpets of flowers, and occasional palm trees piercing the horizon. By night, stars illuminate the inky skies, while flashes of lightning in distant storms dance across the heavens.
Remote and raw, covering 3,660 sq km, Liuwa is home to Africa’s second largest (yet lesser-known) wildebeest migration. From December to April, extensive floods draw about 35,000 wildebeest to the fertile southern plains. As the floods recede in June, the herds travel northward until their return journey south in September—a continuous, cyclical quest for sustenance.
The wildebeest provide ample fodder for Liuwa’s approximately 500 hyenas. These often-misunderstood creatures are fascinating to observe in their family groups, socializing, playing, and grooming one another. Due to the limited presence of lions, hyenas reign supreme here, hunting in clans of up to 50 individuals. Cheetahs also tirelessly stalk the plains, while antelopes—from the giant eland to the tiny oribi—are frequently seen on wildlife safari drives, along with herds of zebra, red lechwe, and buffalo. The park is home to around 330 bird species, including numerous elegant crowned cranes, flocks of pelicans, and endangered wattled cranes.
It’s crucial to mention the story of one very special lion when discussing Liuwa’s wildlife. Lady Liuwa appeared in a National Geographic documentary, famously known as the only lion in the park, surviving alone for nine long years after poaching, human-wildlife conflict, and illegal trophy hunting devastated local prides. African Parks initiated reintroductions of lions, which have since bred, and prior to Lady Liuwa’s natural death in August 2017, she led a pride of eight. Those fortunate enough to see her knew they were witnessing a living legend, for in her twilight years, she radiated leonine dignity, teaching the newcomers her wisdom while caring for their cubs.
Kingdom and culture
Unusual for a national park, Liuwa Plain is also home to around 20,000 people. Known as the Lozi, they are part of the kingdom of Barotseland. The Litunga, Barotseland’s king, designated Liuwa Plain a royal hunting ground in the 19th century while granting land-use and fishing rights to villagers in exchange for protecting the wildlife. This arrangement endures today.
Thus, Liuwa’s local culture is as vibrant as its wildlife. A highlight is the Kuomboka Festival, during which the Litunga and his royal court navigate an impressive flotilla of boats from the floodplains to higher ground—a spectacular ceremony accompanied by song, dance, and drumming. Since floods typically occur from December to April, the water levels determine when the festival takes place.
Where to sleep
Select from five simple community campsites around the park, operational from April to December, with all proceeds benefiting local communities. For an indulgent experience, consider the King Lewanika Lodge, Liuwa’s only lodge, which operates from October to July and offers guided walks, wildlife drives, and canoe trips during the wet season.
