Discovering the Authentic French Riviera
Though the French Riviera is often associated with glamour and celebrity, the reality can be crowded and expensive. However, there is another side to the region — one that is charming, low-key, and a little rugged.
The words Côte d’Azur conjure up various mental images for most travelers: rosé on a beach, nightclubs filled with sun-kissed locals, and languid afternoons spent lounging on yachts off the Cap d’Antibes. Nevertheless, there is a side to this region that couldn’t be further removed from the star power of La Croisette — that famous palm-lined boardwalk in Cannes. French families who summer here know exactly how to sidestep the glitzy façade, seeking out secret beaches, pine-scented cliff walks, and simple yet spectacular Provençal food. For foreign visitors, however, finding the French Riviera’s more authentic side has proven more difficult.
Hotel Les Roches Rouges
Hôtel Les Roches Rouges, a striking, newly reopened resort nestled in the cliffs between Cannes and St.-Tropez, aims to make it easier to experience the true Côte d’Azur. Until very recently, this hotel was precisely where you didn’t want to stay in Provence. A run-down, two-star place, it was stuck in the tackier reaches of mid-century France. Nevertheless, even at its nadir, the property still had a few things going for it, mainly its location. Les Roches Rouges lies in the turquoise heart of the Riviera, hovering over a tranquil inlet near the harbor town of St.-Raphaël. The hotel is named after the red rocks of the Massif de l’Estérel reserve, a stunning mountainous wilderness that offers breathtaking views.
Grégo bought Les Roches Rouges and gave it a five-star upgrade, reopening the 50-room hotel last May. His vision was to create a resort where guests could peel back the glitz and enjoy Provence authentically. The building’s mid-century aesthetic is accentuated with an all-white palette and iconic furniture like Transat chairs by Modernist Eileen Gray. The spruced-up swimming pool fed by the waters of the Mediterranean Sea is a marvel, creating an idyllic setting for relaxation.
Culinary Journey
Grégo sought to connect guests with the hotel’s history and surroundings by emphasizing classic local food. His inspiration came from a 1963 recipe book, Traditional Provençal Home Cooking, which showcases the essence of how people used to live and eat in Provence. Dishes feature an exemplary ratatouille with rosemary honey and a grand aioli — seafood and raw vegetables with a stimulating garlic mayonnaise dip. The kitchen also serves torta de blea, a savory Swiss-chard pie topped with toasted pine nuts.
Additionally, I discovered aigo boulido, an ancient Provençal soup that is rarely seen on menus in France nowadays. This dish consists of garlic and wild herbs boiled in water, ladled over day-old bread drizzled with olive oil. While it may seem deceptively simple, it embodies the soul of traditional Provençal cuisine.
Historical Context
The French Riviera wasn’t always an exclusive destination. Historically, it was known as a rustic stretch where residents lived off the land. However, with the arrival of the railroad in the late 19th century, the region transformed. Notable visitors, including Queen Victoria, flocked to its shores, leading to the luxurious lifestyles we associate with it today.
5 Must-Do Activities in French Riviera
As you explore the region, you’ll encounter both its charming towns and authentic Provençal cuisine. From legendary inns to breathtaking scenic drives, the French Riviera offers an unforgettable experience. It remains a vital part of the French tourism landscape, making it accessible to those eager to discover its beauty.
Practical Information
Getting There
Fly directly into Nice Côte d’Azur Airport (NCE) from New York with Delta/Air France; connections are available through major European hubs.
Where to Stay
Hôtel Belles Rives: Located in Antibes, this historic hotel was once a favorite haunt of F. Scott Fitzgerald; doubles start from $300.
Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc: Known for its luxury and top-notch service, doubles start from $1,480.
Hôtel Les Roches Rouges: After its five-star refit, this cliff-side reserve near St.-Raphaël invites guests to revel in the original spirit of the Riviera, with doubles starting from $250.
La Colombe d’Or: A charming inn in St.-Paul de Vence with a rich history; doubles start from $310.
Where to Eat
Auberge des Maures: This St.-Tropez gem serves classics like petits farcis, with entrée prices ranging from $45 to $107.
Cours Saleya Market: Experience the best produce in the region at this renowned market in Nice.
Kiosque TinTin: Enjoy a perfect pan bagnat from this street-food stand in Nice; available for just $6.50.
La Merenda: A simple Provençal spot run by Chef Dominique Le Stanc; entrée prices range from $14 to $30.
La P’tite Cour: Located in Sanary-sur-Mer, this restaurant is the perfect spot to sample fresh seafood, with prix fixe starting from $37.
