As I look out the window of the small twin-engine airplane that is taking me to my destination, I am overwhelmed with the vastness of the jungle of Malaysian Borneo.

We are en route to Gunung Mulu National Park in Sarawak, Borneo, to see the Pinnacle.

Malaysian Borneo’s southern province is home where my husband and I will be climbing to the Pinnacles, a stone forest jutting 45 metres out of the earth in razor-sharp formations.

Gunung Mulu Pinnacles Trek

Part of the fun and challenge is getting to the Mulu Pinnacles. Gunung Mulu is a remote National Park accessible only by plane followed by a short truck ride to the park’s headquarters in the middle of the jungle.

Here, we arranged for our dorm stay for the night and sought companions for the trek to the Pinnacles. Sharing the costs of the boat and guide makes the adventure more economical.

Not an Easy Journey

The journey to the Pinnacles is no walk in the park. You need to carry enough food to last three days on your back. The trek commences with a 2-hour boat ride, leading to the start of the 8.9 km trail that concludes at Camp 5, situated at the base of the Pinnacles.

We boarded our small motorboat at 7:00 am and set off along the Melinau River, pausing at Wind Cave and Clearwater Cave—the longest cave passage in Southeast Asia.

During our journey, the water levels were low, posing challenges as our driver navigated through the shallow river while avoiding rocks and logs. Upon reaching the entrance to the trail, we arranged for a pickup in two days.

The Trek to the Pinnacles

Within one km of our trek, we encountered our first of two river crossings. The water was quite deep, requiring a safety rope to keep us steady against the current. Fortunately, we all made it safely across, managing to keep our packs dry, although we weren’t as lucky with the leeches that found their way into our socks.

Maintaining a steady pace, we reached our second river crossing after 2 hours. This crossing was less daunting—only about 2 feet deep, with a gentle current.

We completed our required leech assessment and continued on our way.

By early afternoon, we reached the Pinnacles base camp, where we enjoyed breathtaking views and explored the headhunters trail. The location was serene, surrounded by towering cliffs, a quiet stream, and lush jungle. We prepared a simple dinner of noodle soup and crackers, played cards, and made new friends.

However, as evening approached, the rain began to pour, raising concerns about climbing the Pinnacles the following morning. The park rangers strictly enforce safety measures, so our opportunity hinged on the weather.

No Pinnacles. No refund. Even if the weather is bad.

As a result, sleep eluded us in our basic accommodation—vinyl mats laid on a raised wooden platform. The incessant rain lasted through the night but fortunately stopped by morning, allowing us to proceed with our climb.

At 6:00 am, we met our guide, Micheal, to begin our ascent. For the first hour, he maintained a brisk pace that was electrifying and motivating.

Eventually, he adjusted his speed to accommodate the slower climbers, and we continued on our own until we reached the climbing section with 17 aluminum ladders.

Many attempting the climb do not reach the lookout point. Although it is not about high altitude, the steepness and exhausting nature of the climb are demanding, compounded by the absence of safety ropes.

Features of the climb included crossing crevasses on metal beams, balancing on rocks while gripping an overhead rope, and climbing ladders attached to the cliff face. It was exhilarating, though I understood why some may find it overwhelming.

An hour later, we emerged to the awe-inspiring sight of the Pinnacles.

Giant grey and white stones pierced the jungle like razor-sharp shark teeth, offering a majestic spectacle for our viewing pleasure.

The sight of the Pinnacles was a magnificent reward for our challenging climb.

Soon after, clouds rolled in, adding an ominous atmosphere to the Pinnacles. That was our cue to descend quickly, needing to make it down before the weather worsened.

Five hours later, after a slick and grueling descent, we arrived back at camp to shower and unwind.

The break didn’t last long, however.

On the following day, we prepared for the 8 km trek back to meet our ride to Gunung Mulu park headquarters.

Deer Cave

Upon our return, we enjoyed a brief reprieve before embarking on a 3 km hike to Deer Cave, the world’s largest cave opening. Here, we witnessed the astonishing sight of 2 million bats gracefully emerging from the darkness to perform a mesmerizing ballet in the twilight sky.

Though my legs felt heavy, the bat spectacle was worth every ounce of fatigue. A long line of bats soared above us, growing longer with each pass until they formed an endless black spiral in the sky—a true wonder of nature.

Exploring Gunung Mulu National Park fully could take months. The Sarawak Chamber, the world’s largest cave chamber, rock climbing, the headhunters trail, the summit of Gunung Mulu, and the Bario and Kelabit Highlands offer countless adventures.

While we only scratched the surface during our 5-day Pinnacle Trek, I am eagerly anticipating a return visit to delve deeper into the park’s vast magnificence.