Discover Japan’s Hokuriku Region: A Journey Through Traditional Crafts and Scenic Beauty

Throughout history, Japan’s artistic sensibilities have been represented through a dizzying range of objects: katana (swords), folding screens, paper fans, urushi (lacquerware), pottery, copperware, woodware, temple iconography, and much more. Thanks to generations of dedicated and specialist artisans, many of these unique artistic pursuits still thrive.

The Hokuriku region of the Nihonkai (Sea of Japan) coast is a heartland of traditional Japanese crafts. Moreover, the ‘New Golden Route’ connects Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka with the Hokuriku region via Shinkansen (bullet train), making it easily accessible than ever before.

Starting off in Toyama, the route takes you along the Sea of Japan coast to Ishikawa and Fukui, where you’ll discover some of Japan’s most ancient and enduring traditions. Better yet, you can experience it all in five days with a carefully curated Hokuriku itinerary.

(To maximize your journey on this train route, consider the all-access Hokuriku Arch Pass)

Toyama (Day 1)

Begin your adventure in Toyama Prefecture, approximately three hours from Tokyo Station via the Hokuriku Shinkansen. The small town of Inami, accessible from Shintakaoka Station by bus, lies at the foot of Toyama’s Mt. Yaotome and is home to around 200 shokunin (artisans) primarily skilled in the wood-carving trade.

Stroll along the main flagstone street, where you will be accompanied by the rhythmic sound of tools striking wood, the sight of master craftsmen chiseling intricate statuettes through store windows, and the menthol-sweet scent of camphor wafting through open doorways.

At the street’s end is Zuisen-ji, Japan’s fourth largest wooden temple, characterized by an impressive daimon (main gate) and a spacious courtyard. Its relative isolation allows for a tranquil atmosphere reminiscent of Japanese temples in the pre-modern era.

For a comfortable stay in Inami, consider Bed and Craft, a hotel featuring six small villas throughout the town. Each villa comes with a different theme centered on art pieces by local artisans. Moreover, Bed and Craft organizes woodwork workshops and offers bicycle rentals, accompanied by modern Japanese cuisine made with local ingredients served in the hotel’s café nomi.

Toyama (Day 2)

Make your way to Takaoka City in the morning, located one hour by bus from Inami. Here, you will find Zuiryu-ji, a Zen temple built in honor of the deceased daimyo (feudal lord) Maeda Toshinaga in the mid-1600s. The main hall, surrounded by a pristine grass lawn, was constructed without nails; instead, it employs a series of interlocking beams that create a dramatic overhead matrix inside the building.

Next, head to Amaharashi Beach, around 20 minutes away by train. Situated in a quasi-national park in the center of Toyama Bay, the beach offers scintillating views of the Noto Peninsula stretching into the west and the mountainous backdrop of Toyama to the east. If you get there early in the morning, Amaharashi Beach is famous for being one of Japan’s best sunrise-watching locations.

From here, visit Nousaku, a metal-casting factory and workshop just outside Takaoka. Here, tin products are the specialty, and they are exported globally. Participate in a tin sake cup workshop, take part in a factory tour, or purchase artisanal gifts from their combined shop and cafeteria.

Next, take a one-hour bus ride to Gokayama, a mountainous area recognized by UNESCO for its 300-year-old gassho-zukuri buildings: thatched-roof houses shaped like praying hands, a style still appreciated by modern architects.

Stroll around Suganuma and Ainokura, two local villages that gained World Heritage status in 1995, distinguished by a wholesome folktale charm, especially under winter’s snowfall. In Ainokura, consider staying overnight in a minshuku (family-style guesthouse), such as Minshuku Goyomon. Other lodging options include Yajibe, Nakaya, Choyomon, Yomoshiro, and Yusuke.

Ishikawa (Day 3)

Ishikawa Prefecture borders Toyama, leading you to its flagship city, Kanazawa. Conveniently on the Hokuriku Shinkansen Line, a direct bus from Shin-Takaoka Station will get you there.

Your first stop should be Higashi-chaya-gai, an historic district of tea houses steeped in geisha culture (traditional entertainers), and renowned for kinpaku (gold leaf) craftsmanship. With a production history dating back 400 years, consider taking a kinpaku painting workshop or browsing the shops selling a variety of gold leaf items, from jewellery boxes to gold leaf ice cream.

Kanazawa is perfect for walking enthusiasts; take a leisurely 20-minute stroll to Kenroku-en gardens to soak in the beauty of the city. Constructed during the Edo Period (1603 – 1868), Kenroku-en is recognized as one of Japan’s three great landscape gardens, featuring a circuit-style walking route that frames a central pond with carefully managed flowers and symbolic sculptures along the paths.

Within the park, you’ll also find the Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Traditional Arts & Crafts. If time permits, consider visiting the partially restored Kanazawa Castle grounds located next to the gardens.

For a dining experience that combines traditional cuisine with modern aesthetics, head to Coil in the city center. This trendy restaurant serves create-your-own maki sushi rolls (with keto and vegan options) and features a tea bar with various local blends. For accommodation that embodies the spirit of the city, consider Kanazawa’s unique Art Hotel Temarian.

Ishikawa/Fukui (Day 4)

Before leaving Kanazawa, explore Nagamachi, the former samurai quarter. The tight cobblestone streets are lined with generations-old samurai houses, with the height of the exterior walls indicating their former rank.

Visit the Nomura-ke samurai residence to see old artifacts, a tatami tea room, and a well-kept landscape garden. A short 25-minute walk will bring you to Shijimaya Honpo, where you can admire the sharp samurai blades that have remained within the same lineage for centuries.

Bid farewell to Kanazawa with a brief train journey to Kaga Onsen, a collection of onsen (hot spring) resort towns. Here, you can enjoy a soothing soak after several days on your feet. In Yamanaka Onsen, you can visit Kakusenkei Gorge, a beautiful riverside promenade lined with moss and shaded by majestic cedar trees.

Before the day concludes, embark on a train and bus journey (approximately one hour) to Tojinbo in Fukui Prefecture. This remarkable mile-long stretch of hexagonal andesite cliffs greets the crashing waves of the Sea of Japan; it stands as one of the finest sunset spots in the country. Additionally, Tojinbo is less than an hour by bus from the Echizen Mangetsu ryokan (traditional inn), which features an open-air onsen for a restful night’s stay.

Fukui (Day 5)

Fukui Prefecture is known for washi paper, crafted from kozo (mulberry bush) fibers. It features in various items, including Japanese fans and sliding door screens, and recently in postcards. The city of Echizen, just a couple of hours by train from your accommodation, showcases a rich washi paper heritage and should be the highlight of your final day.

Start your day at the Echizen Washi Village, where a 230-meter-long street links the Paper & Craft Museum and the Papyrus House.

Nearby, Takefu Knife Village has a legacy of blade forging since the 14th century. As demand has shifted from samurai tools to kitchen knives and gardening tools, these handcrafted items can serve as memorable souvenirs. Enthusiasts can also craft a miniature paper blade as a keepsake. If your visit aligns with New Year’s, you may witness the ancient rite of ‘first forging’ performed by blacksmiths asking for a prosperous year ahead.

On the city’s other side is the Echizen Old Kiln Museum, part of the Echizen Pottery Village. Home to Echizen-yaki, one of Japan’s six oldest kiln brands, you can explore exhibitions of artisanal pottery or try your hand at crafting your own pieces in a workshop.

Your final destination, Fukui City, is a short 20-minute trip via the Hokuriku Line or a 50-minute ride via tram from Echizen-Takefu Station. Time permitting, take a historic stroll through Yokokan Garden, a bucolic landscape garden that once housed the Matsudaira clan during the Edo Period, located just a 10-minute walk from the Fukui Castle ruins.

Fukui offers affordable business hotel chains like APA and Dormy Inn, ensuring easy access to Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and other major hubs by Shinkansen along the New Golden Route.

For additional information on the New Golden Route, consult this downloadable brochure.

Sponsored by Hokuriku-Shin’etsu District Transport Bureau, JR West and JR East

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