Hiking Glyndŵr’s Way: A Complete Guide

In this series, we take you step by step through how to plan some of the most complicated travel adventures. Here, writer Paul Stafford shares how he put together his long-distance Glyndŵr’s Way hike through the rural core of central Wales.

To those outside of Wales, Glyndŵr’s Way is as little known as the eponymous Welsh nationalist hero it’s named after. This multi-day hike through some of the most sparsely populated places in Great Britain provides a wonderful introduction to the Welsh heartland’s natural beauty, local history, and rural heritage.

Glyndŵr’s Way starts on the border of Wales and England, then weaves through 135 miles (217km) of the remotest reaches of Wales’ green, undulating heartland, almost reaching the sea before curling round and returning to the border further north at Welshpool. The route is a reminder of Owain Glyndŵr’s life and legacy, defined by his land’s complex relationship with England and the persistent threat posed by King Henry IV to Welsh sovereignty and tradition.

Although designed as a National Trail, which ensures excellent upkeep of gates and signage, Glyndŵr’s Way is not a heavily trafficked route, allowing you to walk all day without seeing another soul. However, you’ll likely see plenty of red kites and buzzards wheeling overhead, along with various birdlife, foxes, squirrels, and rabbits. Here’s how to plan your trip.

Step 1: Decide How and When

Each month of the year gives the landscape a fresh makeover.

Fells covered in shimmering mauve blankets of heather in August. Patchwork quilts of wildflowers in May. The fiery woodland mosaics of autumn and droves of snow in the winter months. No matter when you choose to go, nature presents a variety of enthralling colors here.

Glyndŵr’s Way passes through land that’s remote but never truly wild, mostly comprising fields of grazing sheep, interspersed with clumps of woodland. Because Wales can be quite wet at any time of year, the best time to visit is typically early summer, although rain is certainly a possibility.

Step 2: Decide How Much of the Hike You Want to Do

Channel your inner Glyndŵr and set your own rules.

The official route begins in Knighton and ends in Welshpool, though the signage is equally visible in either direction. For those in good shape, it’s possible to complete the full 135-mile (217km) route in nine days, averaging 15 miles (24km) daily, although wet ground can complicate this. Many choose to split the journey into two week-long sections, thanks to good train links at both ends.

Alternative itineraries lasting up to 21 days are excellent for those hoping to take their time and factor in rest days.

Step 3: Consider Your Accommodation Options

Treat yourself to a warm bed and a hot shower at the end of each day.

While it’s wise to maintain some flexibility in your schedule, it’s advisable to secure your accommodation as early as possible. Long stretches of the route do not pass near hotels or B&Bs, and wild camping is illegal in Wales. Although designated campsites exist, they often come with a fee, making a soft bed and hot shower even more appealing after a long day of hiking.

Step 4: Get Your Essential Supplies

Find the right gear and supplies for your adventure.

The hills of mid-Wales attract clouds and rain. A lightweight waterproof jacket, trousers, and even gaiters are recommended. Given the constant changes in elevation, consider a pack that is easy to open and close, as you’ll likely be shedding and adding layers throughout your hike. Sturdy waterproof walking boots are essential.

Step 5: Stay on the Right Track

Avoid common navigational pitfalls on Glyndŵr’s Way.

Although the trail is well marked, fatigue or worsening weather can lead you to miss signs and take a wrong turn. Particularly in fields at higher elevations, numerous tracks made by sheep can lead to confusion.

Step 6: Learn About Owain Glyndŵr Along the Way

Landmarks of a prince; traces of a fugitive.

Owain Glyndŵr began his life supporting the English in campaigns against the Scots, but by 1400, he became an outlaw within his own country, eventually defeating the English in several battles. This wandering trail doesn’t closely follow key Glyndŵr landmarks but rather weaves along traditional routes he may have used to evade King Henry IV’s troops.

If I Could Do It All Again…

I would allow more time for recovery, particularly at the beginning of the hike. The physical toll of carrying a heavy backpack across long distances, especially in tough conditions, can take a significant toll on one’s body. Building occasional rest days into your itinerary will provide necessary recuperation time.