During the composition of my initial publication, I experienced an overwhelming desire to complete it in a location overlooking the sea, a site unfamiliar enough to deter distractions from nostalgia and unexpected encounters with acquaintances.
When choosing Genoa, I recognized it was sufficiently distanced from my residence in Rome to evoke a sense of vacation and sufficiently novel to mitigate procrastination.
Unbeknownst to me was the profound appreciation I would develop for the diverse characteristics of a city that undoubtedly ranks among the most alluring along the Mediterranean. Genoa embodies a staunchly independent spirit, with the legacy of a formidable maritime republic permeating its culture, architecture, and undoubtedly, its cuisine. The culinary traditions of Genoa consistently reflect this intrinsic relationship with the sea.
Like many aspects of the city, each dish tells a tale.
I have a distinct fondness for the medieval carruggi (narrow streets) in the Centro Storico (Old City) that meander from the port. The more contemporary neighborhoods (by Italian standards) that ascend past the Strada Nuova and along the via XX Settembre also merit exploration (and a bit of a climb). The abundance of stairways ensures there is perpetually another street to uncover, each concealing its own little legends just around the corner.
Genoa is a city tailored for the inexhaustibly inquisitive. I ultimately completed that first publication—and proceeded to draft several others. Whenever I seek inspiration for completion, I am acutely aware of where to return.
Breakfast
Despite residing in Italy for over a decade, I have yet to fully embrace the custom of pairing a sweet pastry with my morning coffee. (Perhaps it is my New Yorker upbringing: we were nurtured on a regimen of bagels and bacon-egg-and-cheese sandwiches from nearby delis.) Nonetheless, in Genoa, the savory breakfast remains a celebrated tradition—and nothing quite compares to a generous piece of salty, impeccably textured focaccia accompanied by a piping-hot cappuccino. A cornerstone of the Genovese culinary repertoire, focaccia is referred to as fugassa in the local dialect, and it is common to dip it into your morning brew while observing the world awaken.
Focaccia can be found in the mornings throughout the city. My preferred venue is the medieval quarter’s Pasticceria Liquoreria Marescotti, a century-old establishment adorned with gilded walls housing various tinctures, liquors, and intriguing items; this location inherently stimulates my creative instincts. Excellent coffee and an ongoing parade of local personalities certainly enhance the experience. By 9 am, the morning rush subsides, granting you a front-row view of the undeniable charisma that individuals from Genoa exude effortlessly. Indeed, even the dogs here radiate style.
Coffee
Given that coffee is fundamentally a right in Genoa, numerous cafes comprise the city’s botteghe storiche (historic shops). A few roasters, such as the indomitable Boasi, have established themselves as institutions over nearly a century. However, Genoa is a city that never takes quality for granted, and despite the deeply rooted traditional coffee culture, innovation flourishes. Enthusiasts of Chemex or cold brew need not worry: Tazzepazze provides an extensive menu that includes these options alongside universal favorites like avocado toast. For those craving sweetness with their coffee, Douce offers French-style pastries and robust coffees designed to energize you throughout the day (or at least until lunch).
Alternatively, you can indulge in all these offerings in one delightful bowl, as coffee transcends mere refreshment in Genoa. Indeed, should you depart the city without experiencing the line at Cremeria Buonafede for a pànera, you may miss an indispensable joy of this location. Pànera is a coffee semifreddo that promises to become a cherished aspect of your daily Genovese routine. Decadently creamy yet invigorating, it elicits no guilt, especially since procuring it necessitates traversing the labyrinthine carruggi. I have treated myself to pànera following productive writing sessions more frequently than I should probably admit. In hindsight, if my writing frequency matched the time spent waiting outside that modest storefront, I would be akin to Balzac by now.
Lunch
Genoa is characterized by the blend of cultures that have historically converged on its shores, with its most renowned dishes reflecting this diverse culinary heritage. For a contemporary interpretation of the city’s multicultural cuisine, no venue surpasses the Mercato Orientale di Genoa (MOG). Long regarded as the city’s central market, MOG in its current form boasts a plethora of food stalls and eateries presenting quick meal options throughout the day. Embrace tradition with Scolapasta or Il Laboratorio Gastronomico, or explore Peruvian fare with local influences at Mi Rico Perù. Regardless of your culinary desires, you will encounter premium ingredients and passionate individuals eager to discuss food. Before leaving, take some time to browse the stalls at the original Mercato Orientale for fresh produce or seafood to prepare for dinner.
If you prefer a seated experience along the port (particularly while exploring the impressive Galata Museum of the Sea), make your way to Trattoria dell’Acciughetta, opting for a table outdoors in the lively Piazza Sant’Elena when the sun graces the day. The cozy interior also serves remarkable fried anchovies or frisceu, a delectable fried dough complemented by sage mayonnaise. The baccalà pairs wonderfully with the local vermentino white wine.
Aperitivo
As a proponent of retro charm, I often find myself at Bar degli Asinelli, conveniently located near the Palazzo Ducale, yet—like the enchanting elements of this city—often overlooked until discovered. While the bar may not hold the title of Genoa’s oldest, it dutifully preserves the quintessential Genovese tradition of the Corochinato, a white wine infused with 18 different herbs over six months. It is served universally to poets, dockworkers, students, and ne’er-do-wells: chilled with a twist of lemon, accompanied by obligatory focaccia. It embodies the very essence of Genoa in a glass—a seamless transition from a day of exploration to the possibilities of the evening ahead.
Should I desire to linger and truly absorb the essence of the carruggi, I frequently end up at Liberty Cafe, a charming establishment I admired many times before stepping in. It warmly welcomes patrons and provides those who sit in the corner with dreams of perfect lighting. Additionally, it features an exceptional gin and tonic.
Pesto
Visiting Genoa without indulging in substantial quantities of pesto is simply inconceivable, as one should wholeheartedly delve into this culinary delight. In essence, pesto encapsulates the rich history of this locale in a single bite: the Pecorino Sardo underscores a centuries-old connection with Sardinia and the Maritime Republic that once dominated the seas, while the blend of herbs and oil emerged as a curative paste to sustain sailors during lengthy voyages. The mortar-and-pestle preparation technique traces back to ancient Rome, and the signature basil arrived from eastern origins, representing a (figuratively) tangible result of exploration. Thus, one might argue that consuming pesto is an act of historical tribute rather than mere indulgence.
Pesto is almost invariably paired with traditional trofie pasta in the classic dish, alongside potatoes and green beans. If you can endure the queues, consider trying it at Il Genovese, which has proudly served it for over a century. If you are open to venturing further, U Giancu in Rapallo is worth the journey for both its pesto and charming atmosphere. For those wishing to enjoy pesto at home, stop by Il Trofiaio or Pestobene, where you can purchase it in bulk and serve it to your liking.
Dinner
Like many urban centers, Genoa possesses a complex history; as a port city, its past encompasses a range of less-than-stellar events lurking in shadowy corners where moonlight barely penetrates, and gas lamps once provided an eerie glow. Fortunately, the city has long since outgrown such characteristics—however, the carruggi of the historic center retain a uniquely atmospheric quality that is increasingly rare today. This may explain my fondness for Il Cadraio; it resembles an oasis amidst the dim alleyways of the Maddelena district. The quality of the cuisine is superb, the service extraordinary, and the pricing exceptionally reasonable. They are indeed accommodating to walk-ins (although reservations are advisable).
If you prefer to stray further from the center, few places rival Quelli dell’Achiughetta, situated near the Genoa Brignole train station. The wine selection is impressive, and the cappon magro is prepared in a manner that honors the traditional seafood salad recipe more successfully than most others. Additionally, it serves as the sister restaurant to my lunchtime favorite; what can I say? I recognize a quality offering when I encounter one.
Bar
The entire city appears to congregate in Piazza delle Erbe as the day concludes. Although I may not always make it there, I find it wonderful that this small square has preserved its legendary reputation over the years. Generally, the bar culture in Italy is a multigenerational affair: you are likely to observe a group of older gentlemen socializing alongside a family with young children and students celebrating their achievements. This dynamic is particularly evident in the medieval Piazza delle Erbe, where venues like Bocù or Biggie allow you to partake in the vibrant community that renders Genoa distinctive. Often, musicians roam the square, with numerous patrons spontaneously joining in to sing.
After some time in the square, I relish retracing my steps through the medieval streets, passing the majestic palazzi along the Strada Nuova, resplendent in the evening light. Genoa possesses an innate charm, always ready to unveil another story just waiting to be discovered.
Here, this concept makes perfect sense.
