Provence Road Trip Highlights
A Picture of Provence
Take a drive through the storied towns of the French Riviera to see the scenery that inspired Van Gogh and Cézanne — and discover a cultural scene that’s more alive than ever.
Marseille: The Mediterranean Hub
On a perfect late-summer evening, as I drive from the airport into Marseille, the sun is setting on one side of the sky and a full moon is rising on the other. Everything is enveloped by soft pink light, reminiscent of areas colonized by ancient Greeks. Few places make my heart beat faster than Mediterranean ports — cities of arrival and departure, where there’s always a sense of possibility in the air. In Marseille, one of Europe’s oldest shipping hubs, I feel immediately at home.
I have come to search for traces of painters of the past and visit new sites of contemporary art. Once immortalized by the Impressionists, today Provence is enlivened by rising generations of artists, architects, ingenious chefs, and hoteliers. Over a glass of Vermentino on the roof of the Sofitel Marseille Vieux Port, looking down on jolly sailboats, I study the itinerary: Aix-en-Provence, Avignon, Arles, back to Marseille.
Who better to join me on a journey through past and present than my mother, an art historian? She arrives the next morning off a red-eye flight from the U.S., filled with energy and carrying snazzy new Nordic poles for balance. I haven’t seen her since before the pandemic, and I realize how much I’ve missed her.
Aix-en-Provence: Artistic Inspirations
Though less than an hour from spirited Marseille, Aix feels like another world — quiet, sun-baked, with pleasant streets and plazas featuring gurgling fountains. We wander through an exhibit on the Mediterranean diet — the history of couscous, nougat, pepper mills, and coffee, with interesting displays related to culinary traditions.
The annex of the Musée Granet, housed in a deconsecrated Gothic church, holds a collection of 20th-century art amassed by Jean Planque, a Swiss artist and dealer. We admire Picasso, Braque, Bonnard, and Monet, cooling our excitement in the intense summer heat. Afterward, we stop at a café for a citronnade.
Once immortalized by the Impressionists, today Provence is enlivened by rising generations of creators across various fields. En route to the Château de la Gaude, a vineyard on the outskirts of Aix, we encounter a hillside of Mediterranean pines, suddenly familiar from art history. His adored Mont Ste.-Victoire, which he painted repeatedly, is nearby, reminding me of the joys of this art-history road trip.
Avignon and Arles: An Artistic Journey
The next morning, I look out on the landscape from bed, and my heart is as full as my stomach. Following the Durance River west toward Avignon, we navigate the gate into the city and stroll to Collection Lambert, a museum of contemporary art amassed by French dealer Yves Lambert, featuring luminaries like Basquiat and Anselm Kiefer.
We enjoy lunch in the tranquil garden of La Mirande, a historic hotel near the Palace of the Popes. The heart of Avignon is a maze of medieval streets and hidden gardens. I particularly love the oasis of La Divine Comédie, a guesthouse with exquisite decor and lush lawns.
Luma Arles, a cultural campus featuring a striking Frank Gehry tower inaugurated last year, showcases contemporary art within a vibrant historical context. From the outside, the building looks like a giant spaceship that landed amidst ancient ruins.
Aix and Marseille, Again
En route back to Marseille, we stop in Aix to visit the Vasarely Foundation. We have covered much ground, and now the trip is coming to an end. The experiences we shared, from the cultural richness to the artistic endeavors, resonate deeply within us.
In a busy cafe in the old port of Marseille, we people-watch over an aperitif. The evening brings us to La Mercerie, a neo-bistro where we enjoy unexpected flavors. As we toast our health amidst lively conversations, I feel a longing for these precious moments to last forever.
Retrospecting on shared laughter and exploring art with my mother, I resolve to make journeys like these an annual tradition. The memories of Provence ambience, culinary delights, and art appreciation flow through my mind as we prepare to leave.
A version of this story first appeared in the August 2022 issue of GoTravelDaily under the headline “A Picture of Provence.”
