Stay at Celebrity Chef Francis Mallmann’s Exclusive Patagonia Island

On a private island in Patagonia’s stunning Lago La Plata, chef Francis Mallmann serves the unexpected: vegetarian cuisine.

It took almost three days to reach La Isla, celebrity chef Francis Mallmann’s private island at the far-flung western edge of Patagonia. The journey required two flights to get from New York to southern Argentina’s port city of Comodoro Rivadavia, followed by a six-hour drive along empty dirt roads and, finally, a boat ride across Lago La Plata, during which I braved freezing temperatures in a full-body waterproof suit. By the time the speedboat arrived at the dock of the 15-acre island, I was completely exhausted, my face and toes numb from the cold. However, after being escorted to my cabin — a cocoon of warmth filled with cozy furniture — my discomfort quickly melted away.

The contrasts of that first day in Mallmann’s secret hideaway put me in a state of relief so intense it bordered on rapture. For the next several days, that bliss never wavered — not even when it sank in that, on this trip, Argentina’s grill-obsessed chef would not be serving a single morsel of meat. For the past four years, the man known for his succulent steaks and seared salmon fillets has been working on arguably his most radical project to date: a vegetarian cookbook.

Mallmann explained that input from his daughters, Instagram followers, and young prodigies in his restaurant kitchens has all contributed to his recognition of the environmental impact of meat. “I started to receive hundreds of messages on Instagram saying, in a very respectful way, ‘We love your work, but we are vegan. Can you make more recipes for us?'” he noted. “For them, I decided to write a cookbook.”

Like many chefs, Mallmann began his career pursuing Michelin stars in French kitchens. Yet by the age of 40, he abandoned the complicated fine dining scene for cooking outdoors over an open flame. While everyone else in the culinary world was delving into molecular gastronomy and other gourmet trends, he focused on perfecting the art of grilling and authored his first cookbook, “Seven Fires.”

In 2003, when he opened Garzón, his countryside restaurant and hotel in the then-little-known Uruguayan village of the same name, many believed he was taking a gamble. Yet this risky move proved visionary. His laid-back retreat, emphasizing simply prepared local ingredients, attracted celebrities, food critics, and travelers from across the globe, effectively placing Garzón on the tourist map.

With the upcoming launch of his cookbook “Green Fire,” Mallmann may not be in the lead this time, but his foray into vegetarian cooking is undeniably a significant statement, especially for his ardent meat-loving fans. The book is packed with stunning visuals: Mallmann tying vegetables onto a dome frame set over leaping flames; him and his team dining alfresco next to a fire; and mouthwatering images of each of his 75 recipes, including a beet, lentil, and avocado salad with crunchy rice and artichokes a la plancha, garnished with lemon confit and toasted almonds. It also features Mallmann’s charming — and often theatrical — reflections on what he refers to as a celebration of “the magic that happens when vegetables and fruits are transformed by flames, coals, and smoke.”

Mallmann’s transition to vegetarian cooking coincided with the development of La Isla. He first discovered the island while traveling in 1986, and over the next 20 years, he gradually constructed a simple log cabin on its shores. This cabin was famously featured in a 2015 episode of the Netflix series Chef’s Table, wherein Mallmann prepares a fish wrapped in thick clay and cooked rescoldo-style in hot ashes.

Approximately seven years ago, Mallmann began building three additional cabins on the opposite side of the island, a leisurely 10-minute walk from the main house. This time, he opted for a contemporary design, featuring black corrugated metal façades and large windows that showcase breathtaking views of the lake and ancient forest. The new main structure includes a kitchen, dining area, and living space, adorned with his favorite books — including works by Gabrielle Hamilton, Maya Angelou, and Rabbi Nilton Bonder. The walls are lined with watercolors by Argentine painter Sergio Roggerone. Mallmann personally selected custom black metal lamps and plush linens for the bedrooms.

When La Isla first opened in 2017, reservations were limited and came primarily through Mallmann’s personal contacts and word-of-mouth referrals. This year, he began accepting two exclusive reservations each month, hosting no more than a dozen guests at a time for weeklong stays that can be characterized as gastronomic nature retreats.

Despite the high cost — a six-night buyout is $66,000 for six people — Mallmann has chosen not to glamorize the experience beyond the essential comforts of the accommodations, opting instead to preserve the sense of adventure that I felt during my arduous journey to the island. “Many people won’t come because I didn’t build a helipad,” he shared. “But I consulted with environmentalists who mentioned that birds and animals would truly dislike the noise, so I decided against it. One of the genuine luxuries of La Isla is the silence.” Solar panels have been installed, eliminating the noise of a generator, and interruptions from the outside world are nearly impossible, as Mallmann opted against satellite dishes or landlines.

Of course, the most captivating aspect at La Isla is the food — not only consuming it but also observing its preparation. Meals may take six to eight hours to prepare. While Mallmann still offers guests sustainably sourced fish and meat, the stars of most meals are undoubtedly the vegetables. One beautiful morning, I sat at a rustic table covered with a charming floral tapestry and watched as three young chefs carefully threaded pineapples and cabbages onto metal wires and suspended them over the fire. The produce gradually transformed, becoming creamy, soft, and smoky. Beets were baked in coals, smashed on a vast griddle, and drenched in olive oil and vinegar. I enjoyed them in a delightful salad featuring goat cheese and slivers of toasted almonds. Another chef sliced tomatoes and eggplants almost as thin as paper, stacked them, and cooked them for hours, periodically drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt. They were served adorned with lemon zest, presenting the most refined take on ratatouille I’ve ever encountered. I made a note to keep this recipe in mind for my copy of “Green Fire.”

Guests often relish the unique opportunity to watch Mallmann himself skillfully prepare their meals; he imparts his techniques as he masters the grill. On the first day of most group stays, he enjoys sitting around the fire with his guests for its entire life cycle, from first spark to ash. “It’s an ancient ritual, and there’s something profoundly meditative about gazing into the flames,” he noted. “The allure of cooking with fire has to do with our shared human history of communal traditions. It encourages a slower pace of life.”

These fireside conversations not only provide a chance to observe a master at work but also offer Mallmann the opportunity to convey his new mission. “If I can inspire influential CEOs from Silicon Valley, they can sway their peers and effect real change,” he told me.

In the upcoming years, Mallmann plans to intensify his impact by launching “one or two” vegetarian restaurants in Europe. At the age of 66, he feels he is merely at the beginning of this exciting new chapter — yet another pivot in a career marked by remarkable twists and turns. “A change is coming in my life, and though I still don’t know what it will be,” he reflected, “I am seriously considering the path ahead. I’m not declaring that I’ll stop serving steak, but I think that day may eventually come. We must change.”

In conclusion, La Isla serves as a unique gastronomic retreat that not only showcases Mallmann’s culinary expertise but also embraces a profound commitment to vegetarian cooking which echoes growing environmental consciousness. The convergence of these elements creates a one-of-a-kind journey for culinary enthusiasts and nature lovers alike.