Exploring the Vibrant Culture of Belgrade, Serbia

We truly had no concrete expectations for Belgrade. The capital city of Serbia is one of the most ancient cities in Europe.

Returning from Japan, we opted for a two-week stopover in Serbia, primarily because it was the only country from the former Yugoslavia we had yet to explore.

Our knowledge of Serbia was primarily based on its reputation during the conflicts of the 1990s, notable tennis player Novak Djokovic (currently ranked #2 globally), and its historical camaraderie with Russia.

First impressions of Belgrade

Our understanding of the country was limited, and as Western tourists, we did not foresee an especially warm welcome.

Contrary to our assumptions, many aspects of Belgrade and its residents came as a pleasant surprise.

Belgrade’s rich history

The confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers has a historical significance stretching back 7,000 years.

The city has experienced periods under the reign of the Roman and Byzantine Empires.

Throughout history, it has witnessed numerous uprisings from the 1500s to the 1900s.

Control of Belgrade has shifted among Bulgarians, Hungarians, Franks, Ottomans, and Habsburgs.

From 1918 until its dissolution in 2006, it served as the capital of Yugoslavia.

Due to its strategic position bridging East and West, the city has been embroiled in 115 conflicts and has endured 44 significant fires.

This tumultuous past accounts for the scarcity of well-preserved historical sites within the metropolis.

A notable exception is Belgrade Fortress, dating back to Roman times, which overlooks the junction of the two rivers, providing a palpable sense of the city’s historical narrative.

Serbian education and language

Having visited all the ex-Yugoslav states, our admiration for the Serbian people was significant. They exhibited an impressive command of English.

In nearly three years of continuous travel, encountering an English-speaking population as proficient as Serbians has been rare.

While some older individuals or those from lower socio-economic classes may lack English skills, the majority of those under 40 demonstrate remarkable fluency, a testament to the country’s education system.

This proficiency has attracted a rising number of American companies relocating their technical services to Serbia.

Cultural connections with Russia

Prior to our arrival, we were aware of Serbia’s connections to Russia, which were quickly confirmed during our explorations.

Throughout the city, there is an abundance of Vladimir Putin merchandise, Russian flags, and markets selling traditional Russian items such as Matryoshka dolls, scarves, and intricately painted jewelry boxes.

This bond between Russians and Serbs stems from shared religious practices (Eastern Orthodoxy), historical alliances (frequently against Western interests), political ideologies, and linguistic similarities.

Serbian hospitality

Despite the aforementioned historical tensions, the Serbs we engaged with were exceptionally warm and welcoming.

They expressed a strong desire for us to leave with positive impressions of their country.

Upon our arrival, a congenial elderly man in the elevator attempted to converse with us in German, switching to French when he realized we did not share his language. We ended up engaging in a delightful ten-minute discussion in French.

Our Airbnb host graciously invited us to her home in the suburbs, offering coffee and cookies while discussing Serbian customs and contemporary life.

On another occasion, a bus driver insisted we stand beside him, engaging us in conversation about his favorite sports teams despite the language barrier.

During our two weeks, we experienced several such heartwarming interactions with locals who left a lasting impact on our journey.

Belgrade as a party destination

We were unaware that Lonely Planet designates Belgrade as the world’s preeminent party city.

When hostilities initiated in 1999, the locals embraced a spirit of revelry, leading to the current vibrancy of Belgrade’s nightlife, rivaled only by Ibiza.

The prime opportunities for nightlife occur during the summer at the floating clubs along the riverbanks.

While our visit took place in December, it was enlightening to learn about the energetic atmosphere of the clubs during the warmer months.

Affordability of Belgrade

Experiencing the delights of Belgrade is highly cost-effective.

Dining at one of the city’s renowned establishments, Dva Jelena (The Two Deer Restaurant), we enjoyed a lavish meal consisting of two starters, two main courses, two bottles of wine, coffee, and dessert, culminating in a total bill of approximately $40 USD.

According to Expatistan.com, Belgrade ranks as the 10th most affordable city among 73 European cities.

As a point of reference, Skopje (Macedonia) was rated the 3rd cheapest city, while Kiev currently holds the title of the most economical city in Europe.

Smoking culture in Belgrade

Despite the indoor smoking ban implemented in January 2016, the reality in Belgrade reflects a strong smoking culture.

Cigarette use remains prevalent, and defiance of established regulations is common. Visitors should be prepared for a smoky environment, characteristic of many Balkan locales.

Walkability of the city

Belgrade’s old town is compact and offers a pedestrian-friendly experience, featuring a central thoroughfare, Knez Mihailova, extending from Republic Square to Kalemegdan Park, where the fortress is situated.

Initially, we found Belgrade to have a somewhat unkempt appearance. However, exploring this area with its stunning architecture, squares, and green spaces provided a much-enhanced perspective of the city.

Street art in Belgrade

Residents of Belgrade have been actively enhancing their urban landscape with extensive street art.

The city boasts an impressive array of murals, potentially outnumbering those in any other city we have visited.

Orthodox churches in Belgrade

The marvel of Saint Sava, one of the largest church buildings globally, is a must-see. St. Mark’s Church also merits a visit.

To appreciate traditional Orthodox architecture, Ružica Church and the Church of St. Petka, located near the northern entrance of Belgrade Fortress, are recommended for their vibrant interiors, which were highlights of our sightseeing experience.

Belgrade’s future prospects

As previously noted, many American firms are relocating their technical operations to Belgrade, and other investors are making substantial contributions to the city’s development.

Eagle Hills, a firm from Abu Dhabi, is undertaking projects aimed at revitalizing Belgrade’s waterfront, with new exclusive residential towers nearing completion and plans for ultra-modern skyscrapers and luxury hotels, including Europe’s largest shopping mall.

Chinese investments have also surged in Serbia, targeting steel, energy, and infrastructure projects.

These developments highlight the city’s potential, as investors recognize its skilled, underappreciated workforce proficient in English. The urban landscape is expected to undergo significant transformations in the coming years.

Our experience in Belgrade was thoroughly enjoyable, and we aspire to explore more of Serbia’s diverse offerings.

Having just traveled for seven weeks in Japan, which at times felt excessively structured, we appreciated the authenticity of our time in Belgrade.

Belgrade offered a reminder of our passion for travel.

The city lacks pretension, presenting a gritty charm and an absence of overwhelming ‘must-see’ attractions.

It is a comfortable environment conducive to wandering, enjoying local beaches, and savoring meals without feeling ensnared in tourist traps.

The English proficiency among locals facilitates meaningful interactions, enhancing the overall experience.

Ultimately, the genuine warmth shared by the Serbian people has inspired us to return, as we have received numerous gracious messages, recommendations, and even invitations to stay in their homes upon sharing our experiences in Serbia.

This welcoming sentiment makes Belgrade and Serbia unique, memorable destinations.

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