The swell and roar of tides as they crash along a white sandy beach, a scramble and final push to reach the highest point in the land, and a lingering look at epic vistas, ending the day in the cosy snug of a pub; if this sounds like your perfect outdoors weekend, you may want to start planning a trip to the Reeks District.
This beautiful area of Kerry, centred around the town of Killorglin, is a great destination for those who want to enjoy the world-famous scenery found in this region while avoiding the tourist hub of Killarney. While Killarney deserves its popularity, during peak times, you might find yourself battling crowds of visitors seeking an ‘authentically Irish’ experience. In contrast, the Reeks District offers a quieter, more genuine adventure for those in pursuit of outdoor thrills.
The Dizzying Heights
The region was recently rebranded by the local tourist board and is named after MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, a spectacular 19-kilometre stretch of peaks and ridges that is home to the three highest mountains on the island. These majestic peaks dominate the skyline, but if you desire the most breathtaking views, you’ll need to climb one of the 27 individual summits.
Carrauntoohil is a major draw for adventurers. At 1,040 metres, it is the highest mountain in Ireland. While it may not compare to the giants of the Himalayas, its accessibility allows for a day climb, making it suitable for most individuals with a moderate fitness level and proper preparation. As with all strenuous hikes, consider hiring a guide if you feel uncomfortable navigating alone.
Devil’s Ladder is the shortest ascent route and was the most popular until recently. However, the ‘ladder’ is a steep ravine with loose rocks, posing safety concerns, especially during busy peak times. Alternatively, a more stable and picturesque route is Brother O’Shea’s Gully, which showcases breathtaking views like waterfalls and Ireland’s highest lake, though some segments of the climb can be quite exposed. Upon reaching the summit, you can choose to return the same way or explore alternative routes; however, it is unsafe to descend elsewhere. Joining a tour operator may provide the safest option, and you can find the latest route updates on Kerry Mountain Rescue.
An easier yet equally stunning climb is Purple Mountain, which takes you through the famous Gap of Dunloe. If you’re short on time or have reduced mobility, Strickeen is achievable in just three hours, featuring a gentle ascent while offering fantastic views of the surrounding lakes. Additionally, for rock climbing enthusiasts, various locations in the Reeks provide excellent climbing opportunities.
Oceans, Rivers, and Lakes
When you’re ready to return to sea level, the Reeks District boasts two of the best Blue Flag beaches in the country. Inch Beach is a five-kilometre sandy stretch extending from the Dingle Peninsula into Castlemaine Harbour. Featured in numerous tourism campaign videos, it is one of the most picturesque seascapes; however, like most beaches in Ireland, you may need a bit of luck to enjoy it on a sunny day. Its potential for strong winds makes it a hub for surfing, with consistent waves year-round. Both Offshore Surf School and Kingdom Waves offer surf lessons or you can rent your own equipment to go solo.
On the opposite side of the harbour lies Rossbeigh Strand. Unlike Inch, vehicles are not permitted on the sand, providing more room for walkers and sunbathers to relax and soak up the sun. Surfing is also popular here, and it is a favorite spot for kite-surfers, as you can travel the seven kilometres between the two beaches on a board. The firm, flat sand at low tide is ideal for horse riding, and nearby Burke’s Beach Riding pairs riders with gentle horses for treks ranging from an hour-long beach trot to an all-day journey through farms, mountains, and valleys.
If a calmer water experience is your preference, consider exploring nearby rivers and lakes. Wild SUP tours provide paddle boarding excursions on Caragh Lake and the River Laune, an excellent way to engage in bird-watching while enjoying the stunning mountain views. Alternatively, you can kayak through the lakes of Killarney and Killorglin or arrange a permit to fish for salmon or trout.
Village Life
For a diverse culinary scene, Killorglin is the perfect choice. Located just a 15-minute drive from the base of Carrauntoohil, you’ll have easy access to the renowned wilds of Kerry without sacrificing the pleasures of fine dining. The town offers a compact yet diverse array of excellent restaurants: savor local seafood at Jacks’ Coastguard Restaurant or Bianconi; indulge in excellent tapas at Sol y Sombra; or try homemade pasta at Giovannelli. There are numerous great pubs to experience, though note that some still only accept cash payments.
For something truly unique, check the festival calendar prior to your stay. The Puck Fair, held each August, is the most famous and a truly one-of-a-kind celebration. This ancient Celtic festival, which marks the start of the harvest season, involves crowning a wild goat as king of the town for one long weekend, during which the pubs remain open for 21 hours to join in the festivities. Although this tradition has drawn criticism regarding animal welfare, it remains a fascinating part of local culture. If this isn’t your cup of tea, the town features a permanent statue of ‘King Puck’ for you to appreciate at any time.
Keep other dates in mind as well, such as K-Fest, which fills disused buildings with pop-up art galleries and performances in early June, and Biddy’s Day, celebrating the arrival of spring with a nighttime parade in early February.
Need to Know
Kerry Airport is ideally located for accessing the Reeks District, offering an efficient experience with minimal queues. However, route options are somewhat limited. Additionally, the Reeks are approximately two hours’ drive from both Cork and Shannon airports, which provide a broader choice of flights, or about four hours from Dublin. Train services are also available from Cork or Dublin.
As with many rural areas in Ireland, renting a car will provide you with the most freedom, as public transport may not reach every destination. However, you can also opt for tours, taxis, or join a cycling tour to embrace the active theme. Regardless of how you choose to explore, be sure to bring clothing that accommodates all seasons, as the weather can be unpredictable.
