A Journey Along Sunset Boulevard
A 26-mile hike along LA’s iconic Sunset Boulevard allows long-term residents to reconnect with the city’s history while uncovering the numerous changes occurring in its most famed neighborhoods.
Mile 1: Downtown LA
At 6:27 AM, I stood in the shadow of LA’s Union Station. Surrounded by elegant Mexican fan palms and illuminated arches, it radiated a deep blue hue.
“I’m walking to the beach,” I mentioned to a nearby security guard. My destination was a mere 26 miles down Sunset Boulevard.
“Good luck with that,” she replied dismissively. Shrugging off her skepticism, I glanced at the Terminal Annex post office, where the famous poet Charles Bukowski had worked and where his classic novel, Post Office, is set, and pondered over my city.
As a rare third-generation Angeleno, I often speak about the open-mindedness of LA, a double-edged sword that allows individuals to explore various identities. In Los Angeles, the possibilities are limitless, with myriad industries, cults, and trends birthed and reborn in this vibrant city.
However, this diversity can fragment cohesion. It’s a city comprised of distinct neighborhoods that can be overwhelming for visitors, often leading to overlooked gifts.
Sunset Boulevard acts as a bridge between these diverse barrios, serving as a passage to the city’s very essence. It brims with artists, immigrants, rebels, dreamers, and superstars. My previous walk along this street in March 1999 ignited dreams of writing globally. Now, with LA in the midst of a cultural renaissance, I was eager to observe its evolution.
Mile 2: Echo Park
As I moved past Olvera Street’s taquerias, where the aroma of sizzling chilies wafted through the historic Mexican settlement of Pueblo de Los Angeles, I ventured into Echo Park, a neighborhood buzzing with new life.
South of Sunset lay the charming Victorian houses of Angelino Heights and the enchanting lotus blossoms of Echo Park Lake. On the main street, cute shops aligned side by side near the entrance to Dodger Stadium, home to Brooklyn’s team since 1958 and the legacy of Jackie Robinson.
Reflecting back to 17 years ago, I remembered walking this same area in torrential rain, seeking shelter amongst families and locals patronizing affordable stores. Today, sophisticated vintage shops, designer boutiques, and hip cafés dominate, catering to affluent residents.
Ostrich Farm, a popular farm-to-table establishment, exemplifies the Eastside dining scene’s vibrancy.
Brooke Fruchtman, co-owner, explains, “It’s a neighborhood restaurant. Ninety percent of our customers are local.”
After enjoying a recent meal there, I savored a ceviche tostada adorned with spiced scallops and octopus enhanced by mango on poppadom—an experience reflecting Echo Park’s complexity, pulsating with creative flair.
Gentrification naturally progresses in waves. The owners arrived in 2014, already amidst Echo Park’s rising fame, while a familiar figure from the past came searching for a job. Isaac Lopez, who moved from Oaxaca, spoke of a time filled with challenges yet filled with strong community bonds.
Mile 5: East Hollywood
After crossing through trendy Silverlake, I arrived at East Hollywood’s delightfully chaotic landscape, where Armenian delis and Thai eateries lay side by side, showcasing a colorful blend of languages and cultures.
As Tereza Yerimyan, president of the East Hollywood Neighborhood Council, stated, “The communities developed together.” The fusion of cultures has shaped this unique area.
Unfortunately, the rapid development often threatens the authenticity of these vibrant neighborhoods. As East Hollywood begins to face changes, there is hope that careful preservation can maintain its distinct character.
Mile 10: Sunset Strip
While market trends shift toward the east, the iconic Sunset Strip, once a hotspot for LA nightlife, has experienced decline. Many renowned clubs where legends once performed have either closed or transformed.
Despite the survival of some luxury hotels, the contemporary scene leans toward an indie aesthetic, indicative of the shifting cultural landscape, emphasizing creativity over past grandeur.
Mile 12: Beverly Hills & Bel Air
As I skirted the manicured gardens and expanse of Beverly Hills, I soon found myself navigating the landscape of Bel Air. The area is a testament to the automobile-centric lifestyle prevalent here, where roads often trump sidewalks.
Mile 20: Pacific Palisades
The final miles were challenging, with fatigue setting in as I encountered the remnants of city life littered across streets.
But upon reaching the entrance of the Riviera Country Club, the breathtaking view of the Pacific Ocean became visible—a refreshing beacon of hope on the horizon.
Just shy of the end, I reached the public meditation garden of Paramahansa Yogananda. His beginnings in LA encapsulate the creative spirit of the city, driven by vision and hope.
As the sun began to set, painting the sky with hues of burnt orange, I took off my shoes and stepped into the ocean, signaling the end of my journey, yet the continuation of LA’s story: ever-evolving, vibrant, and filled with possibility.
