Experience the Vibrant Life of Athens

Life in Athens is played out on the street. The best way to really get under the skin of the city is to join in this intoxicating mix that’s somewhere between bedlam and joie de vivre. From parks and gardens to open-air cinemas and rooftop bars, here are some of our favorite alfresco experiences in the Greek capital.

Get in the Mood with a Stroll

One of Europe’s longest and probably prettiest walkways, the 3km-long ancient promenade circles the historic centre of the city. Locals and tourists alike come out in force for an evening volta (stroll) along the heritage trail which takes in the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Acropolis Museum, the mighty Acropolis, and the Ancient Agora. You’ll also find plenty of modernity here, with open-air art exhibitions, buskers, and street traders lending the pedestrian route a festive air.

Stop for a Coffee or Two

Open-air cafe hubs, Koukaki and Thisio, lie conveniently at both ends of the cobblestone promenade. Grab a table at any of the bustling establishments that take your fancy and – if you want to feel like a true Athenian – order an iced coffee (aka freddo) in one of a myriad variations. Don’t rush it: locals can spend hours enjoying their coffee and observing the world go by. Dioskouri in Monastiraki is strategically positioned for endless crowd-watching.

Pop into Athens’ Latest Pride and Joy

The Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center houses both the National Opera and the National Library in a magnificent complex designed by Renzo Piano. The surrounding large park came as a much-needed and welcome addition to Athenians’ outdoor habits, receiving 5.3 million visitors in 2018 alone. Olive groves, large plane trees, and hundreds of acres of indigenous plants combined with the sea breeze, make for a perfect urban retreat. Guided tours in English are organized every morning at 10am, and a frequent free shuttle service runs from Syntagma Square and Sygrou-Fix metro station.

Take a Breather in One of the Green Spots

Athens isn’t known for its greenery, but locals make good use of the parks and leafy spaces available. The National Gardens (the former royal gardens designed by Queen Amalia), Lykavittos Hill (whose summit offers fantastic panoramas of the city), and Filopappou Hill (a pine-shaded area with some of the best vantage points for photographing the Acropolis) are all central and busy year-round.

Join the Athenians in Eating Out

Dining in Athens is usually a rowdy, drawn-out, and communal affair as restaurants overflow onto the streets. While Plaka may offer touristy eateries, authentic tavernas shine in the neighborhoods of Petralona, Exarhia, and Metaxourgio. Oikonomou provides simple, traditional Greek cuisine, while Ama Lachei offers scrumptious dishes accompanied by quality house wines in a lovely garden setting. The popular Seychelles is also a must-try.

Indulge Yourself with Open-Air Culture

As spring arrives, Athens’ cultural life blossoms outdoors, with theatres and concert venues hosting various events. The Athens Festival encompasses theatre, dance, and music, primarily in open-air stages scattered across the city. The breathtaking Odeon of Herodes Atticus, located at the base of the Acropolis, is a venue everyone should experience at least once. Terravibe Park, situated 37km from Athens, offers an idyllic setting for concerts featuring top bands and artists from around the world.

Discover an Array of Places to Drink

Athens’ nightlife is vibrant, enhanced by balmy nights and alfresco indulgence. Explore areas like Psyrri, Syntagma, and Keramikos for the latest hotspots. During summer, bars featuring rooftop terraces and garden courtyards abound, adding to the outdoor revelry across the city. The rooftop cafe-bar of A for Athens hotel offers incredible views of the Parthenon, while Lotos invites a youthful crowd to socialize until the early hours.

Enjoy the Big-Screen Magic Under the Stars

From May to September, catch a film in one of Athens’ open-air cinemas. Some venues are nestled in serene gardens, while others, like Cine Paris, provide stunning rooftop views. Cine Thisio, boasting a direct view of the magical Acropolis, has been repeatedly recognized as ‘the world’s best cinema’ by international media. Additional options like Cine Dexameni, Aegli, and Riviera are also centrally located and worth visiting on your Athenian evenings. Typically, there are two screenings each night at 9 pm and 11 pm.

Stay Up Until Dawn

From the bustling streets of Athens, venture to the coast. Stretching from Piraeus to beyond Glyfada, the Athenian Riviera features glamorous beach clubs open from May to September. Island is a classic venue, a bit further down the coast but worth the trip, offering an ambiance reminiscent of the Cyclades. Mingle with the city’s most fashionable crowds and, when morning comes, refresh yourself with a dip in the Saronic Gulf to start all over.

• First published in August 2009