A Journey Through Afghanistan: Part 2 of 5

This installment continues chronicling Stephen’s experiences as he navigates through Afghanistan. To catch up on the previous sections, view all parts here.

From Stephen

Ancient Buddhist and Greek Kingdoms – Balkh and Samangan

Mohammed introduced me to another Afghan friend named Qais, who would join us on our journey to Balkh. Having been born in Mazar and educated in English from a young age, Qais became an asset for the UN. He possessed extensive knowledge about the affairs in Balkh, and accordingly, he loaded the trunk of our vehicle with an AK-47, assuring me that it was merely a “precaution”. As we departed Mazar towards Balk, the realities of Afghanistan became starkly evident, with military personnel speeding down the highways alongside decimated Russian tanks scattered across the countryside.

After approximately thirty minutes, we arrived in Balkh, enveloped in a cloud of dust. The city’s buildings, riddled with bullet holes, bore witness to the devastation of war. Upon passing through modern Balkh, we entered the grand walls of the ancient city, the same walls traversed by Alexander the Great during his conquest of this enigmatic empire. My Afghan companions and I explored along the walls, picking up shards of pottery and coins from the earth—a testament to the times when this town remained unexcavated and preserved from foreign influence for countless years. Our stay, however, was brief as Qais reminded us of the grim realities that accompany this lawless region; undesirable occurrences are prevalent after dark.

The following day, we departed from the comfort of Mazar once more, this time heading southwards towards the Hindu Kush. The towering Pamir Mountains appeared in the distance, with their rugged black outcrops and glacial peaks serving as a salient reminder of Afghanistan’s diverse landscape. The terrain transitioned gradually from arid desert to mountainous foothills. We weaved through various mountain passages and entered expansive valleys sequestered from the neighboring provinces.

Exploration of Samangan Valley

Our destination was the Samangan Valley. Upon our arrival, striking tunnels and openings carved into the hills began to unveil the remnants of Afghanistan’s lost Buddhist kingdoms. We ascended to the summit of the valley’s largest hill, where an intricately carved stone Buddhist Stupa is positioned prominently, observable from all corners of the valley. To access the Stupa, it is necessary to traverse through a stone-carved tunnel leading to its base. Here, I ambled clockwise around the colossal mound, my hand brushing against its rugged stone surface while I pondered the enigmatic individuals who once inhabited this area. The valley harbors innumerable secrets, awaiting discovery by those willing to venture here.

Stephen’s Biography

Hello, I am Stephen Gollan, the Uncharted Backpacker! Over the past nine years, I have journeyed through more than 80 countries. My travels often lead me to unique destinations that others may hesitate to explore. Recently, I backpacked across Libya, Pakistan, Iran, and Iraq. Unlike the typical beach vacationer, I find fulfillment in thrilling adventures, whether conquering mountains in Pakistan or traversing the landscapes of North Africa. My website, www.unchartedbackpacker.com, captures my travel experiences, offering valuable insights on “off the beaten track” destinations to inspire your next adventure. Travel is an intrinsic part of my life because the lessons learned from exploring the world far outweigh any material possessions.

Puppy Defender. Foodie. Chocolate Enthusiast and Custard Lover. Dip, Cover, or Wrap anything in sugar, and I’m yours!