Summary
For us, travel is all about experiences and seeing the world around you. Without sounding too cheesy, travel is something that opens your mind, makes you appreciate differences, and truly value cultures and new landscapes that you’d never interacted with before. At its core, that’s what makes travel so incredible – its ability to broaden your perspective.
As you know, at GoTravelDaily, we love sharing our experiences. However, Stephen’s account shared an adventure we probably wouldn’t undertake ourselves. You might recall an amazing journey by Stephen from the Uncharted Backpacker, who previously travelled across Afghanistan? Well, Stephen recently reached out to us, sharing his latest adventure in Yemen.
Yemen is a country I’ve never even considered visiting, especially given the FCO advice against travel due to safety concerns. Following this guidance, I would always recommend others not to travel to Yemen in the current climate. It is far too unsafe.
That being said, Stephen embarked on his adventure through Yemen, and it’s something we just had to share.
His account is tough; the situations he faced were undeniably terrifying. Nevertheless, it’s an experience that most of us, including myself, will probably never have.
Ultimately, this emphasizes why travel can be so transformative; it opens your mind. That’s why we had to share Stephen’s insightful account of traveling through Yemen.
Read Stephen’s Journey Through Yemen
Visiting War-Torn Yemen by Stephen Gollan
From the first moment I saw Sana’a, I have dreamt of visiting Yemen. Unfortunately, since 2011, during the Arab Spring, Yemen has been faced with significant political unrest. Now, with civil war ravaging the country, it has become a destination that many deem too dangerous for tourism.
In late 2017, after extensive research and much frustration, I resolved to visit Yemen amidst the war. After spending three weeks in Oman, I found myself in Salalah, carefully monitoring the situation in Yemen as I prepared to cross the border.
On the day I was to cross, the Coalition, supported by Saudi Arabia, instituted a blockade that rendered all borders closed. This blockade did not thwart my journey; I managed to get through. My local fixer was waiting for me at the border, and the following is my account of the journey through Yemen!
Shibam and the Valleys of Hadhramaut
The journey into Yemen from the Northern border with Oman leads you to the Hadhramaut region. It typically involves about four hours of driving through the desolate sands of the Empty Quarter. While crossing into Oman is straightforward, navigating the Yemen side is quite different.
The devastation is evident, with buildings destroyed and makeshift living conditions comprised of barbed wire and metal sheets. Many armed men in regular clothing appeared battle-hardened as they carried heavy weapons.
After crossing the border, it took another eight long hours through the Empty Quarter to reach Seiyun, the capital city of the region controlled by the coalition forces. Most security checkpoints were manned by Saudi and Emirati forces, making the drive seem endless due to repeated inspections.
The next day, I had my first real taste of Yemen. We journeyed to Wadi Dawan, a breathtaking hilltop community characterized by mudbrick houses nestled against steep cliffs. Nearby are lush oasis towns teeming with various fruits and nuts. Yemeni farm life intrigued me, with women clad in head-to-toe black garments and sporting tall pointed yellow hats.
The main attraction in Hadramaut is the legendary city of Shibam, often dubbed the “Manhattan of Arabia.” This ancient city is famous for its mud buildings that soar well above seven stories, making it akin to a “living museum.”
For centuries, people have resided in these grand structures. Strolling through the streets of Shibam, one can’t help but gaze up at the vibrant mud walls and exquisite wooden windows.
The Ancient Kingdoms of Marib
Once upon a time, the mention of Marib would evoke images of lost cities buried beneath shifting sands, Bedouin tribes resiliently surviving in the harshest conditions, and Yemen’s stunning natural landscapes.
Today, however, it represents the front line, where Al-Qaeda and ISIS execute their attacks while Coalition and Houthi forces continue their battles. This grim reality makes it an essential stop on my journey through Yemen.
The road from Seiyun to Marib traverses some of Yemen’s most challenging desert terrains. Sands sweep across the paths, heat distortions deceive the eye, and besides the occasional solitary camel, life seems sparse. As one nears Marib Town, rocky peaks begin to emerge through mirages.
While fueling up at random stations in the desert, I encountered ISIS fighters bearing flags and government troops maintaining security at gunpoint alongside vehicles packed with armed men. This indeed felt like the wild west of Yemen.
Once we finally arrived in Marib, my fixer introduced us to his family, a Bedouin tribe, whose compound was substantially secured, providing a sense of safety. We spent hours chewing Khat, donning traditional Yemeni attire, and handling their machine guns.
The following day, we visited ancient sites around Marib, where remnants of Sabaean kingdom temples lay half-buried in the sand. Archaeological digs had commenced, but due to the civil unrest, the excavation process halted prematurely.
Sadly, not many foreigners have laid eyes upon these historic structures in years.
Yemen’s Capital, Sana’a
The highway between Marib and Sana’a has been closed for several years, as it lies on the frontlines of conflict between Houthi and Coalition forces. A journey that typically takes a few hours now stretches to over ten due to the necessity of navigating remote mountain passes into Rada’a, which itself is plagued by terrorist activity and instability.
Driving along this mountain road proved precarious; visible snipers were stationed in the hills, and the frontlines were marked with artillery and tanks. Upon entering Houthi territory, we encountered a makeshift checkpoint, manned by youthful soldiers adorned with headbands and mismatched camouflage.
Upon finally arriving in Sana’a, exhausted from our arduous journey, we navigated over forty checkpoints, traversed through several precarious areas, and dealt with a spilled spare gas can in the 4×4. Eventually, we reached the driver’s residence in the old city where we would spend the night.
Waking up to the call to prayer from the minarets of Sana’a’s old city was a beautiful experience. We ascended to the roof of our driver’s house to witness the stunning landscape of minarets surrounding this fascinating city. In the morning, we ambled through the bustling markets of Sana’a, purchasing a traditional Yemeni knife known as a Jambiyah, which is a common sight among men in the area.
Sana’a’s Old City is atypical of any place I’ve visited. Its narrow lanes are lined with shops selling knives, spices, handcrafted copper pots, and much more, much like they have done for centuries. The architecture, crafted from traditional mudbrick and adorned with white chalk-lined windows, reinforces a connection to the past. Locals, donned in traditional attire, further contribute to this enchanting atmosphere that transports you back to ancient Arabia.
During our evenings, we were invited to various Yemeni households, all somehow connected to our fixer, Fuad. As we chewed Khat and enjoyed tea, we engaged in discussions about Yemeni culture and the impact of the ongoing war. The hospitality extended towards us was unlike any experience I have encountered in other destinations.
The subsequent days saw us explore Sana’a and its surrounds further. To the north lies a stone castle, a tall Yemeni-style palace seemingly defying gravity atop a slender rock. Within an hour’s drive from Sana’a is Kaukabam, a city constructed entirely of stone perched atop a lofty mountain, offering breathtaking views of Yemen’s majestic mountain valleys. Unfortunately, much of this area has experienced severe damage due to airstrikes amid the conflict.
Manakha and the Haraz Mountains
From Sana’a, the next leg of our journey would take us to the picturesque Haraz Mountains situated just west of the capital. This region is renowned for its medieval fortified villages positioned on high plateaus, representing one of Yemen’s most traditional areas. Western clothing is seldom seen here, and there are no western-style restaurants or luxurious hotels. It genuinely is a traveler’s paradise.
The winding road from Sana’a undulates upwards to Manakha through the jagged peaks of Haraz. After roughly three hours of driving, we ascended above the clouds, catching glimpses of the fortresses of the villages above. The sights became more breathtaking with each ascent.
We spent two days in Manakha, hosted by a family that our fixer Fuad was familiar with. One of the older sons guided us on hikes through the mountains, allowing us to visit charming small villages and terraced fields, often welcomed with tea and bread accompanied by yogurt from the hospitable farmers. The hiking experience in Haraz was among the most rewarding highlights of my time in Yemen!
After spending a week in the Haraz area, we drove back to Sana’a. A few days later, fighting erupted, leading to a coup involving Abdul Saleh and the Houthi forces, which left us stranded in Sana’a.
Traveling Through the War in Yemen
Yemen is an extraordinary country, to say the least. Before the war, it experienced notable tourism and, I assure you, once the conflict concludes, it shall again. But until then, conventional travel and tourism in Yemen are indeed complex. Visiting requires special permits and entails various risks.
My decision to travel to Yemen was driven by a desire to showcase the country’s culture, people, and historical sites. Often, in times of war, the media spotlight shines solely on the negatives. During my travels, I witnessed airstrikes, severe humanitarian issues, the full-fledged conflict, and even spent eight days in detention on suspicion of espionage. Nevertheless, I found the most profound aspect of my journey to be the resilience of the Yemeni people, whose hope shines brightly despite the challenges presented by ongoing violence. Their optimism is what struck me most profoundly.
Even though Yemen may not be ready for tourism right now, consider this post a way to prepare for your future trip. I firmly believe that Yemen’s condition will improve, and tourism will flourish once again, just as it did before.
