Exploring West Maui’s Rugged North Shore

The car rental companies will tell you not to travel around West Maui’s rugged north shore. Although narrow and winding, the road is paved the entire way. However, in case of a breakdown, getting service can be challenging. Additionally, the road can be perilous during bad weather, including flooding and falling rocks.

The drive itself is absolutely breathtaking and, in some ways, even more impressive than the Hana Highway, which receives more publicity. From Kapalua to Wailuku, you will experience some of the most rugged coastline and delightful beaches that are less known and less frequented.

The trip can be completed in a couple of hours if you do not stop. Yet, to truly appreciate the stunning views, you should allocate four to five hours.

Mokuleia Bay and Slaughterhouse Beach

Driving past Kapalua on the Honopi’ilani Highway, the road will begin an upward climb. Past D.T. Fleming Beach Park, you’ll reach the Mokuleia Marine Life Conservation District and Mokuleia Bay at mile marker 32. You will need to park along the road and walk down a long stairway to access the beach, but it is worth the effort, particularly for snorkeling enthusiasts. However, be cautious about high waves and rough surf in winter.

The small sandy beach here is commonly known as Slaughterhouse Beach, named after the Honolua Ranch above the bay, which once had two slaughterhouses on the ridge. These buildings were dismantled in the 1960s, but the name has persisted.

Honolua Bay

The second bay you will encounter in the Mokuleia Marine Life Conservation District is Honolua Bay. Again, parking is available along the road or in small pullouts. The beach lies between mile markers 32 and 33 on Highway 30. After a short walk through the surrounding forest, you will arrive at the rocky shore. This location is excellent for snorkeling and scuba diving, especially near the cliffs. Take care while navigating the rocks to enter the water safely.

Summer provides the best conditions here; during winter or after heavy rainfall, enjoy the views from the lookout area at Lipoa Point, just up the road on the left. From this vantage point, the views are outstanding.

Lipoa Point

Just beyond Honolua Bay, you will notice pineapple fields on your left stretching out toward the ocean. Previously home to a golf course in the 1940s, this flat area is now known as the “Golf Links.” A dirt turnoff leads to the coast. In good weather, you can even drive down a bit; however, in muddy conditions, it is not advisable. This area is private property, and access has been limited by the Maui Land & Pineapple.

A walk down the road provides magnificent views back toward Honolua Bay. There are additional stunning views at the end of the road of the coastline, including tide pools, caves, and clear snorkeling spots popular among local surfers and swimmers.

Punalau Beach (Windmill Beach)

On the other side of the pineapple fields, a view of Punalau Beach awaits. This beach is located down the hill at mile marker 34 and is frequently known by various names, such as Pohakupule Beach, Keonehelele’i Beach, or Windmill Beach. The name “Windmills Beach” originates from an old windmill that once drew water for the Honolua Ranch and is now long gone.

This rocky beach, approximately 100 yards long, isn’t clearly marked. Look for the “Private Property” sign on your left, which indicates a dirt access road leading to the beach.

The beach itself is beautiful, surrounded by trees and steep rocky slopes. The sand comprises a blend of white sand, black lava fragments, and various shell sizes. Coral and rock flats extend about 100 yards offshore.

As a popular launch point for fishing kayaks and winter surfing, the beach produces a wave break from a ridge extending about a mile off the coast.

This land is also owned by Maui Land and Pineapple, which permits camping for a small fee, although no facilities are available.

Be aware that like most north shore beaches, visiting might be hazardous during heavy winter storms.

Honokohau’s Boulder Beach

As you continue along the highway, you will see Honokohau’s Boulder Beach at mile marker 36. As the name suggests, the beach is completely composed of boulders, and parking is limited to about 25 vehicles.

This beach is an excellent spot for winter surfing, frequented by locals. However, be cautious of high car theft; do not leave valuables in your vehicle if you walk to the beach. Honokohau is also a popular kayaking location and the last point on the north shore where boats can launch.

During winter storms, the waves can become hazardous due to the rocky coast. Honokohau Stream enters the bay at the south end, where flooding can occur during or after heavy rains.

Nakalele Point and Blowhole

Nakalele Point is the most northern point of Maui, located just past mile marker 38. The parking area is easily identifiable, often marked by a food truck. Visitors leave cairns or stacks of stones along the path, complementary to the natural rock formations.

The main attraction here is the renowned Nakalele Blowhole, approximately a 1200-foot walk along a marked path. If the surf is heavy or it’s high tide, the geyser effect can be seen from quite a distance. Nakalele Point is marked by a light beacon along the journey, and visitors will also encounter various tide pools and stunning lava rock formations.

The blowhole forms when surf erodes a shoreline lava shelf. Air and water are forced upwards through a hole in the shelf, creating a geyser effect that can shoot more than 100 feet into the air.

Though it may be tempting to get close for a perfect photo, avoid doing so, as there have been fatalities due to people being swept back into the hole by receding water at this and other Hawaii blowholes.

A second viewing area is located less than a half mile past mile marker 40. This spot allows for close encounters with the blowhole, while another overlook offers breathtaking views of Kahakuloa Head to the east after a short walk.

Village of Kahakuloa

As you travel, the highway markers shift from Highway 30 (Honoapi’ilani Highway) to Highway 340 (Kahekili Highway), beginning at mile marker 16.3 with descending mileage numbers.

Before reaching mile marker 16, look for a large boulder known as “The Bellstone” on your right. This rock is reputed to produce a bell-like sound when struck in a specific spot with another rock.

After the Bellstone, you’ll notice a dirt road leading to the “Olivine Pools,” which create natural water pockets during calm surf. The lava here contains small amounts of the semi-precious olivine gemstone.

The road then narrows as it descends toward sea level. Be on the lookout for mile marker 15, which features a scenic outlook with excellent views of Kahakuloa Village.

Kahakaloa, a small isolated village, is home to about 100 residents, featuring two charming churches and roadside stands like the Panini Pua Kea fruit stand and Ululani by the Bay, operated by Ululani Ho’opi’i, wife of recording artist Richard Ho’opi’i. While there are no gas stations or restaurants, the community is known for its friendliness.

Kaukini Gallery and Kahakuloa Head (Pu‘u Koa‘e)

After ascending the hill on the other side of the village, keep an eye out for the Kaukini Gallery and Gift Shop on your right. Founded by Maui artist Karen Lei Noland on her grandparents’ former ranch, the gallery showcases Noland’s original paintings alongside works from over 100 local Hawaiian artists. Visitors will find unique gifts like paintings, ceramics, jewelry, and koa woodwork.

The views from the parking area are spectacular, and you may spot cattle grazing nearby. However, the vistas from this location are less remarkable than those experienced as you approach Kahakuloa Village.

Kahakuloa Head, standing at 636 feet, is historically significant due to King Kahekili’s Leap. In the 1700s, King Kahekili, Maui’s last independent ruler, is believed to have launched himself into the ocean from approximately 200 feet high.

A narrow and dangerous trail leads to the summit of Kahakuloa Head.

Seabird Sanctuary and Turnbull Studio and Sculpture Garden

Upon leaving Kahakuloa Head, the road pulls away from the coast, revealing rolling hills on either side dotted with cattle. The road presents tight hairpin turns, so drive with caution. Look out to the left for a viewpoint of Mokeehia Island off of Hakuhee Point, a seabird sanctuary, where you’ll need a pair of excellent binoculars to spot any birds.

The highway begins to show more residences. Shortly after the 10-mile marker, you will pass the Turnbull Studio and Sculpture Garden on your left, marked by a grand entrance and striking bronze and wood sculptures visible from the road. This location features artwork by Bruce, Christine, and Steve Turnbull, along with various other local talents.

Just past the nine-mile marker, you will see the Aina Anuhea Tropical Garden, a beautiful site with dual lovely waterfalls, commonly chosen for weddings.

Makamaka’ole Falls, Waihe’e and Wailuku

Your journey along West Maui’s Rugged North Shore is nearing its conclusion. From various spots along the highway, the Kahului coast comes into view. For the first time since leaving Kapalua, you can see power lines and now you spot a waterfall along the highway. Unlike the Hana Highway, known for its numerous waterfalls, this drive is renowned for its panoramic views, captivating beaches, and rustic charm.

Just past mile marker 8, look for a waterfall in a small valley to your left—this is Makamaka’ole Falls. Visibility may vary based on rainfall, and it is a two-tier waterfall where the lower section often remains visible, even when the upper level is obscured.

Before long, you will pass through Waihe’e, where an exceptional hike through the rainforest of the valley is a great choice. Consider joining Maui Eco-Adventures for this hike, which also offers other hiking experiences across Maui.

Soon, you will arrive in the Central Maui town of Wailuku, from where you can return to West Maui via the customary and faster route.