Nar Phu Trek: An Adventurer’s Paradise

If you love trekking but seek a remote adventure without sacrificing basic comforts, then the Nar Phu trek in Nepal may be the perfect choice for you. Snaking off from the renowned Annapurna Circuit, the wild and seldom-visited valleys of Nar and Phu are increasingly welcoming independent trekkers, providing a glimpse into one of Nepal’s most pristine, Tibetan-influenced regions.

Historically reserved for expensive, porter-hauled mountaineering expeditions, Nar Phu is now more accessible for self-sufficient trekkers. Thanks to guides and the right permits, you can now embark on an affordable seven-day teahouse trek, visiting charming stone-walled villages scattered across the Annapurna range.

Leaving the Apple Pie Trail

Accompanied by a necessary guide, my journey commenced at Koto (2600m), a quaint village along the Annapurna Circuit route. With a sense of melancholy, I bid adieu to the luxuries of pizza and social media updates. Merely moments after departing on the narrow, unmarked trail, fellow trekkers dwindled in number. For the subsequent seven days, I encountered more porters than fellow adventurers on this obscure path, where all goods are transported by mule, yak, or human strength due to the absence of roads.

As I climbed higher through lush conifer woods above the roaring Nar Khola river, I relished the tranquil sounds of nature. A cluster of simple bhattis (food stalls) offered a delightful lunch stop before the trail became more challenging, leading me towards the treeline. Eventually, I reached a solitary chorten (stupa) with incredible views of the upcoming route—stunning, snow-capped peaks and deep, dramatic gorges awaited me.

After crossing a stream via a rickety suspension bridge, I spotted a winding mule trail zigzagging west over the breathtaking monastery of Nar Phedi. However, that awaited me later in the trek. First, I tackled the barren ridges and imposing rock walls of the Phu valley, moving north towards Tibet. The altitude became more pronounced as I arrived at Meta (3530m), where a simple lodge welcomed me with a plate of daal bhaat (lentil and rice) and a bed for the night.

Striking North to Phu

To aid acclimatization, I spent an extra night at Meta, enjoying a gentle day trek towards the base camp for climbs of Kang Garu peak (6981m) before proceeding north. The Annapurna rain shadow created increasingly rugged and arid landscapes filled with fantastically eroded cliffs and stunted juniper bushes.

Each time I heard stones fall from the slopes above, I eagerly scanned for glimpses of wild tahr (mountain goat) or blue sheep, often seen in this area. The trail eventually climbed to the high pastures near the remnants of Chyakhu (3700m), where several bhattis offered a welcome meal of daal bhaat, fueling my push towards Phu. After several more hours maneuvering through a narrow gorge, I finally reached the crumbling entrance gate to Phu. However, the village lay still half an hour away, and I was relieved to drop my pack upon reaching Phu’s solitary lodge.

Exploring Phu

It’s wise to spend two days in Phu due to its altitude—4070m—allowing you to explore its stunning Tibetan-style mud and stone houses, adorned with prayer flags and stacked firewood. While the upper part of Phu village experienced extensive earthquake damage, a steep series of switchbacks led me to Tashi Lhakhang Gompa, where a friendly nun offered butter tea and invited me to see the shrine’s inner sanctum.

For those with time, several trails near Phu offer splendid exploration opportunities. Above Tashi Lhakhang Gompa, a wild trail leads north to Tibet, while another track follows the glacial moraine to Himlung Base Camp (4920m). For less intense treks, there are breathtaking views from the bowl-shaped hanging valley that sits above the terraced fields of Phu village.

Winding West to Nar

After a restless night affected by the altitude, I once again donned my pack and traced my steps back along the Phu Khola, turning west just before Meta towards Nar. A low suspension bridge at the base of eroded hoodoos granted me access to the serene monastery at Nar Phedi (3510m). Despite their modest conditions, the monks provided lodgings for trekkers, allowing me to share a communal thukpa (Tibetan noodle soup) dinner and join in their evening puja (prayer) ceremony.

Rest came more easily at this lower altitude, and I awoke well-rested for the climb to Nar. A winding path took me above the clouds, passing mule trains and an octagonal chorten, unveiling the green barley fields of Nar village (4180m). With ample sunlight remaining, I took my time exploring the dirt paths between the stone houses and ancient gompas, eventually preparing for the trek’s high point—the 5320m Kang La.

Conquering Kang La

Reaching Kang La is a formidable challenge, surpassing the renowned Thorung La (5416m) on the Annapurna Circuit. Above Nar, the pleasant pastures transformed into loose scree and rocky moraines, requiring careful navigation along a rugged path that twisted with multiple false summits. Upon finally cresting the knifepoint pass, gasping for breath, I admired the far-off houses of Manang, the Humde airstrip, and the Annapurna circuit situated two vertical kilometers below, with Annapurna III and IV dominating the horizon.

The final trek back promised long hours of descent, with a steep inclination that gradually leveled onto open screes. The loose gravel allowed me to slide down almost like skiing, hastening my pace. I continued downhill towards Ngawal (3750m), the trek’s conclusion, where the Annapurna Circuit’s beloved banana pancakes awaited me. After a week away from the comforts of the apple pie trail, I welcomed the lively atmosphere of the village.

Nar Phu Practicalities

Nar Phu is a restricted area, allowing access only with a special permit, which must be arranged through an accredited trekking agency. At present, the cost of the Nar Phu permit ranges from US$75 to $90 based on the season, valid only for seven days; thus, completing the trek within this timeframe is crucial. Additionally, trekkers should be aware of the risk of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) along this route, as the ascent from Koto to Meta involves significant altitude gain, necessitating proper acclimatization above 3000m.

Other Restricted Area Treks and Fees

The Nar Phu trek is one of many extraordinary trails within Nepal’s restricted areas, encompassing remote valleys near the Tibetan border. With appropriate permits (and a budget for the high fees), adventurers can explore ancient Buddhist kingdoms, secluded Tibetan gompas, and valleys frequented by elusive snow leopards. Consider these remarkable treks:

• Upper Mustang (US$500 for 10 days) – A relatively smooth, mid-altitude teahouse trek through captivating terrain echoing Tibetan culture.
• Manaslu Circuit (US$50-70 per week) – Known as Nepal’s most dramatic trek, featuring sheer valley walls, snow peaks, glaciers, and a significant 5000m pass.
• Inner Dolpo (US$500 for 10 days) – The jewel of Nepal’s restricted regions, highlighted in Peter Matthiessen’s The Snow Leopard, linking camping areas between Phoksumdo Lake and the mystical Shey Gompa.
• Tsum Valley (US$25-35 for 8 days) – A uniquely Tibetan area off the primary Manaslu circuit, showcasing impressive mountain views and hidden gompas.
• Humla (US$50 for 7 days) – Trekking through Limi Valley leads hikers through one of Nepal’s most remote regions.