Summary
Experience the Rich Culture of South African Townships
Since my first encounter with a South African township upon arriving in Cape Town, I have been captivated by the unique lifestyles of the residents. Similar to how I engage with residential areas in London, I am inherently drawn to understanding how diverse communities live, though I have never clearly identified the reason for this fascination.
However, the township neighborhoods in South Africa often carry an element of risk; news coverage typically highlights less favorable aspects surrounding these environments. Acknowledging the possibility of visiting these locations, I was particularly eager to explore a township following my missed opportunity during our stay in Cape Town. On this trip to Port Elizabeth, I was determined to visit.
The township we toured was Red Location, recognized as South Africa’s very first township.
Important Note of Caution: It is strongly advised never to visit a township alone and to always engage with a reputable local guide. The caution surrounding these areas is not unfounded; while many places are accessible, certain regions are avoided by locals. Therefore, utilizing the insights of available local expertise and securing a guide is paramount. I will update this post with our guide’s details when they become available, as he comes highly recommended by locals and the tourism board.
Historically, to maintain compliance among the township residents, during the apartheid era, the government established numerous drinking shacks, ensuring they were consistently stocked with alcohol (not free of charge), under the premise that intoxicated individuals are less likely to revolt.
Red Location derives its name from the corrugated iron sheets that composed the shacks in the area, which became oxidized to a distinctive deep red hue. Today, the characteristic red is less prominent than several decades prior, appearing mainly in painted buildings, such as the structure depicted above.
At Red Location, there exists a hostel named “Red Location Lodge.” This establishment has a remarkable inception story, initiated by several determined women who have endured multiple prison terms for their involvement in the struggle against apartheid. These courageous women, acknowledged as community pillars, united to create a hospitable venue that offers visitors an authentic township experience, allowing them to spend a night (or more) in the community. (During our visit, an American group was in residence.)
The accommodations are clean and inviting, with the women offering delightful storytelling, ranging from amusing to deeply moving narratives, and the option for private rooms is available. The evenings are filled with vibrant dancing, singing, and storytelling, all under secure conditions, eliminating safety concerns. The resilience of these women, who have transformed a previously adverse situation into a thriving hospitality venture, is truly inspiring. (Kudos to them!)
For those interested in spending the night or simply visiting to greet the ladies (trust me, they appreciate it), their contact details are as follows:
Address: Singapi Street, Red Location, New Brighton, Port Elizabeth, 6200
Phone: 071 104 2845
After bidding farewell to the Red Location Lodge ladies, we ventured down the street to locate the local butcher in hopes of preparing for a traditional braai (South African barbecue) later that afternoon. Unfortunately, as this coincided with the beginning of the Easter weekend, he was on a well-deserved break, prompting us to search for Nathaniel and Samuel, two brothers who manage a shop together.
This is the local butcher we visited…
Samuel was unavailable at the shop, but Nathaniel was present, and after working up quite a thirst (despite the clouds, it was still a warm day), we made a brief stop here for refreshments…
That’s Nathaniel, featured below…
This venue also offers a wonderful opportunity for observing and engaging with the community…
Immediately after concluding our time there, we crossed the road to meet Ayanda, a local artisan.
Each piece created by Ayanda has a personal connection to her, and she refrains from discarding any flawed items. Instead, she ingeniously repurposes them into furnishings throughout her home. Upon arrival, you can immediately begin to identify elements of her artistry.
During our brief visit to her studio, I was immediately intrigued by her work and decided I wanted a piece for myself. Ayanda is incredibly welcoming and is a delight to engage with (a must-see if you’re in the area!).
Some pieces she has created specifically for herself.
Eventually, the time came to bid farewell to Ayanda and to the captivating Red Location township, which without a doubt became one of the most unforgettable and colorful experiences of our time in South Africa!
In conclusion, are you interested in experiencing a South African township, or potentially staying overnight in one?
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