A lover of cold, wild, mountainous places, writer Kerry Walker headed to Norway’s southern fjords to find the true meaning of “friluftsliv” (outdoor living). Here she shares a snapshot of her adventures.
Ever since I first set foot in Norway a decade ago, I’ve dreamed of visiting the fjords proper. Summer’s crowds and cruise boats would not be for me; therefore, I decided to piece together my own itinerary from Stavanger to Bergen in late spring. The region boasts rare beauty, with thundering rivers, flint-blue fjords, and glacier-encrusted peaks—all ripe for adventure.
Arriving in May or early June allows you to savor the region practically all to yourself. The fjords are at their photogenic best during this time, as the landscape bursts into blossom, waterfalls rage as the ice melts, and snow remains atop the summits. Moreover, the light nights grant you the chance to relish every precious moment.
Where did you stay? What was the vibe?
I enjoyed my stay in four different places, each offering incredible views and a back-to-nature escape. Haukali33/3 has a calm simplicity that recalls a bygone era. I spent a happy off-grid night in a turf-roofed husmannshus (cottage). Owner Reidunn has converted her grandfather’s farm into a silent lakeside hideaway where you can swim, hike, mountain gaze, and fish for trout in the family rowboat. By night, the sound of a thousand sheep bells rocks you to sleep, creating a glorious ambiance.
Additionally, I was fortunate enough to stay in one of the slick new, architect-designed Star Lodges at The Bolder, clinging to the cliffs above Lysefjord. Hidden above a fairy-tale forest, I also enjoyed a magical experience at Tveita Adventure. I shall never forget spending the night 10m up in a pine tree above Odda at the Sørfjorden at Woodnest—truly the treehouse of childhood dreams.
Most memorable meal?
One memorable dining experience was sushi at the Michelin-starred Sabi Omakase in Stavanger, where chef Roger Joya infuses Nordic flair into exquisite seafood dishes. The seductively lit restaurant accommodates just 10 fortunate guests. In the open kitchen, each bite-sized course is prepared with meticulous care, featuring langoustines, oysters, reindeer sashimi, and salmon belly nigiri with wild garlic—all of which are utterly delicious.
Where did you get away from the crowds?
The Folgefonna glacier in Folgefonna National Park offers a mountain-rimmed, ice-capped, lushly wooded wilderness straight out of a Tolkien fantasy. As May is still early season, I enjoyed a half-day hike up through the Buer valley, crossing fern-flecked forests, streams, and snow to reach viewpoints showcasing breathtaking views of the glacier above the valley.
Your most epic adventure?
A RIB ride (boat tour) on Hardangerfjord left me in awe of its unmatched beauty. I took a thrilling RIB ride with Hardangerfjord Adventure in Øystese to fully experience the power of nature. In May, the waterfalls were spectacular, cascading over sheer cliffs into turquoise waters. Our gasps echoed off 800m-high rock walls as we sped across the fjord, getting close to misty, rainbow-laden falls while passing tiny, forgotten hamlets like Botnen.
For an adrenaline rush, nothing compares to donning a dry suit and snorkel, then plunging into the fast-flowing, glass-clear, salmon-rich Suldalslågen river at Mo Laksegard. Although it was too early in the season to spot salmon, the experience of floating in the frigid river was exhilarating.
Your top cultural recommendation?
Spending some time in Stavanger is highly recommended. Linger for a day or two, and you’ll discover a vibrant city filled with captivating street art, Antony Gormley sculptures, an animated harbor, and an enchanting alley-woven, timber-framed old town (Gamle Stavanger).
What to bring back?
Eplesider (apple cider) is a delightful souvenir. During May, the landscape is adorned with blossoming apple trees producing fantastic ciders. My favorite was Apal Sideri in Hjelmaland, overlooking Jøsenfjorden, where Dan Olav Sæbø has transformed the local cider scene after winning gold at the Frankfurt World Cider Awards in 2020. You can sample various options, including crisp Sølvsider and intensely appley Issider (ice cider) in their tasting room before purchasing.
What to pack?
Practical gear is essential to prepare for the unpredictable weather. Norwegians fully embrace friluftsliv (outdoor living), and you will likely spend ample time in nature. A good pair of hiking boots, like the leather Scarpa ones I wore while climbing the Folgefonna glacier, is crucial. Remember to pack trekking trousers, base layers, a wind- and waterproof jacket (yes, even in summer), and a backpack for convenience. Fjällräven is a reliable and quality Scandi brand worth considering.
