‘Behind you, it’s not done yet, but it’s going to be a cafe.’ I’m standing in Lyon’s Hôtel-Dieu, mid-renovation, as builders rush about with just five weeks to go until the scheduled opening (19 October 2019) of the city’s long-awaited Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie. Opening manager Damien Blanchard looks nervous. ‘Will it be ready? I hope so.’
What is the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie?
In 2010, UNESCO granted the French gastronomic meal ‘world intangible heritage’ status. France was encouraged by this to establish four international cities of gastronomy around the country. ‘It was a big thing to French people. In Lyon, we are the first.’ The other three will open in 2024, each with its own theme: Tours will focus on human sciences, Paris-Rungis will revolve around markets, and Dijon will emphasize wine. The theme in Lyon is health, fittingly located within the historical Hôtel-Dieu, which was a hospital until 2010.
What can we expect?
As we tour the 4000 square metres across four levels of this historical building, it becomes increasingly clear that its transformation into a gastronomic world is going to enthral not just die-hard gourmands but also nutritionists, French film buffs, young children, aspiring chefs, historians, and Francophiles. ‘We won’t call it a museum,’ says Blanchard, ‘but there will be permanent exhibitions, activities, and events. It’s more like a cultural center.’ Here are some of the delights:
Miam Miam: the interactive children’s section
The dedicated children’s section called Miam Miam features six knowledge islands where kids (and the young at heart) can engage in games revolving around themes of nutrition, gastronomy, and health. All instructions are provided in both English and French. A highlight is the fully equipped pastel-coloured kitchen with a video screen featuring a cartoon chef acting as a guide. ‘Everything is connected,’ says Blanchard, ‘there’s a touch table, and you can cook by following the numbers. I made mayonnaise last time—it was fun.’
In addition to a giant picnic basket and a talking cow named Lillie, children can explore a model of a French landscape sitting atop half an egg, allowing them to use virtual reality to follow a bee and learn where their produce comes from.
‘You can also sit on the teeth or on the tongue of a giant mouth,’ says Blanchard, demonstrating an educational game about the body’s reaction when healthy food is consumed.
Paul Bocuse’s original kitchen stove
On the first floor of the permanent exhibition in the Bon Appétit section, visitors can learn about the historical significance of the Lyon Mothers and the Michelin Guide, while also viewing a display dedicated to renowned chef Paul Bocuse. His original stove is showcased here, described by Blanchard as ‘like a piece of art, but it has been renewed.’ He noted, ‘It’s 700kg, so it’s quite hard to carry, but it could work if we wanted to use gas again.’
The chef extravaganza in the events space
On the second floor is the events and activities space where guests can watch chef demonstrations. Moreover, visitors may purchase tasting plates and glasses of wine (or non-alcoholic drink pairings) from signature set menus curated by visiting chefs for an additional €12. Notably, this experience is not limited to French cuisine; as part of the ‘Welcome Country’ program, international guest chefs will be featured, starting with chefs from Japan in October 2020.
Apothecary projections
As we’ve rushed from room to room at a cracking pace, my head spins with the real and the imaginary of this phenomenal work-in-progress. Consequently, it’s almost emotional to finish in a space that pays tribute to the Hôtel-Dieu’s former function as a hospital. In a dark room that once held the building’s archives, visitors can stand transfixed as video installations of colorful plants and Latin names whirl above their heads, representing a cinematic apothecary—an extraordinary meeting of the old and new.
Further information
Cost: €12/8/3 adults/children under 16/unemployed people; annual membership €51.
Karyn Noble visited Lyon with the support of Lyon Tourism.
