Explore the Life and Legacy of St. Francis of Assisi

Driving a car in Italy certainly has its entertaining moments. However, walkers will find Assisi offers a variety of interesting pilgrimages, some of them off the beaten track.

Stazione Ferrovia (Train Station)

The train station for Assisi isn’t actually in Assisi; it’s over a mile away. You can take a shuttle bus from the station to Assisi, but for walkers, the road is flat (until it reaches Assisi, that is). The summer’s crop of sunflowers along with the hill town of Assisi as a backdrop makes for a wonderful walk, especially in the morning before the summer sun starts beating down.

Exiting the train station, you’ll turn left and walk northwest toward the main road, Via Patrono d’Italia. Turning right on this road will take you to Assisi, easily visible rising from the plain. But don’t take a right; take a left and go into the town of Santa Maria degli Angeli and look for the Basilica. It’s not much to look at on the outside, but there’s a surprise inside.

Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli

The Basilica contains the tiny Porziuncola chapel, a church Francis is said to have restored by his own hands. Of course, with fame comes attention, and the exterior of the tiny chapel has been tarted up with a rather gaudy facade; marble-clad and decorated with 14th and 15th-century frescoes by Andrea d’Assisi.

Also inside the Basilica, the Cappella del Transito contains the cell where St Francis died in 1226.

The basilica is flanked by the Thornless Rose Garden and the Cappella del Roseto.

Once you’re finished, you’ll be ready to head toward Assisi.

You might notice the Hotel Trattoria da Elide on Via Patrona d’Italia 48 on the walk back. If it’s lunchtime, this is a fine place to stop for some traditional Umbrian food.

Before heading out of town to the Eremo delle Carceri, or St. Francis’ “Hermitage Cells,” it’s essential to explore the major sites in Assisi.

The Basilica of San Francesco

The Basilica of San Francesco is what most visitors come to see. Mostly restored after the earthquake of September 1997, it’s actually two Basilicas built on top of one another—an upper and lower. Both churches were consecrated by Pope Innocent IV in 1253.

Church of Santa Maria Maggiore

The church of Santa Maria Maggiore was the cathedral of Assisi before 1036 when the church of San Rufino took over the position. However, what we see today dates back to the 12th century.

The nave, semi-circular apse, and sacristy still have remains of frescoes from the 14th and 15th centuries. A Medieval sarcophagus lies to the right of the entrance. From a passageway leading from the crypt, the House of Propertius can be accessed, featuring Pompeian-style wall paintings.

Every first Saturday of the month, there is a guided tour of the Roman house of Propertius at 9:30 and 11:00 a.m. Booking is required. If you need information, call: 075.5759624 (Monday – Friday 8 a.m. – 2 p.m.).

Rocca Maggiore (The High Peak)

Found at the ends of Via della Rocca, Via del Colle, and the stepped Vicolo San Lorenzo off Via Porta Perlici in the north-central high point of Assisi, visiting the castle is a must. The earliest remains of the castle date back to 1174, when it functioned as a German feudal castle. The views from here are incredibly stunning.

The Eremo delle Carceri

From Rocca Maggiore, walk toward the Rocca Minore (a single tower) and find the Porta Cappuccini, where signs will point you toward the Eremo, located 4 km away with a climb of some 250 meters.

On the way, you’ll pass some vendor stations (yes, you can get a coffee or bottle of water here), and then you’ll arrive at a complex of buildings built around the cave of St. Francis. Much of this main complex existed six hundred years before Francis was born. No visit is complete without the (possibly) head-jarring peek into the tiny cave Francis was known to retreat to occasionally. Afterward, look for the old tree carefully propped up, reputed to be the very tree holding the birds St. Francis preached to, though some controversy surrounds this tale.

A few Franciscans still reside here, and some will answer questions.

San Damiano

San Damiano is about 1 mile outside Assisi’s Porta Nuova. It served as a favorite retreat for Francis and his followers; St. Clare founded the order of the Poor Clares here. Entrance is free.

Where to Stay

Here’s a well-rated guest house:

St. Anthony’s Guest House
Franciscan Sisters of the Atonement
Via Galeazzo Alessi – 10
06081 Assisi, Prov. Perugia, Italy
Phone: 011-390-75-812542
Fax: 011-390-75-813723
E-mail: atoneassisi@tiscali.it

Sanctuary of La Verna–Where Francis received the Stigmata

North of Arezzo lies a popular shrine in the mountains with wonderful views of the countryside. The road from Michelangelo Caprese, where Michelangelo Buonarroti was born in 1475, winds up the wooded slopes of Mt. Sovaggio toward Mt. Penna, given to Francis by Count Orlando of Chiuso in 1213. Francis established a camp at La Penna in an area known for its strange rock formations in the forest called La Verna. This sanctuary comprises buildings from different eras. It was here that Francis received the stigmata in 1224. Families still gather at the small Sanctuary, and some walk the network of paths that web the mountains.

A walk through the forest leading to the summit of Monte Penna provides a panoramic view of the Tiber and Arno valleys.

Staying nearby La Verna

Simonicchi sounds appealing. There is also Camping.

Assisi Endnotes:

You can hike 15 km from Assisi to Spello (taking approximately seven hours) and then return by train.

The Basilica of St. Francis is the only sovereign land owned by the Vatican outside of Rome’s Vatican City.