Discover Zurich’s Vibrant Kreis 4 Neighborhood

“When people only read the tour guides, they don’t find Zurich fun,” says chef Meta Hiltebrand. “But when you meet someone that lives here, you fall in love.”

On a warm summer day in Switzerland’s largest city, I have made a beeline to Hiltebrand’s corner of the fourth district (Kreis 4). This neighborhood isn’t typically featured on tourist itineraries; in fact, just a decade ago, visitors rarely ventured here before dark. A working-class area nestled between the boutiques of Bahnhofstrasse and the cobblestones of the Old Town, the fourth district is now a hub of nightlife, entertainment, and culinary innovation.

I am here to sample the renowned tasting menu at Le Chef, a beacon of transformation in this often-overlooked part of Zurich. Five years ago, Hiltebrand opened Le Chef to reinvigorate Zurich’s previously underwhelming culinary scene. The vibrant dining room, decorated with disco balls and playful portraits, mirrors her inventive dishes that evolve every three weeks.

“I’m really not a typical Swiss,” Hiltebrand tells me during dinner. “I need to have color in my life.” She enthusiastically points out her restaurant’s prime location in Zurich’s red light district — a feature she embraces. “The city is different at night,” she adds, and indeed, Kreis 4 transforms after dark.

There hasn’t always been demand for a modern European restaurant like Le Chef in Zurich. On the night of my visit, Hiltebrand’s dynamic tasting menu features lamb neck paired with avocado mousse and octopus atop saffron potatoes with wasabi cheese. Each dish is artfully presented with individual sauces and quirky pastries that invite interaction. However, traditional dishes like Züri-Gschnätzlets and Wiener schnitzel remain staples in local dining.

Exciting Activities in Zurich

Hiltebrand aims to disrupt stagnation and clichés. The self-described “punk” grew up in Kreis 4’s Langstrasse neighborhood, once known for its gritty red light entertainment. She recognized that this community welcomed new ideas differently than other Zurich neighborhoods.

This area’s creative resurgence in the mid-2000s sparked innovative projects, including the concept stores and social spaces at Im Viadukt and Frau Gerolds Garten. Slowly, Kreis 4 evolved into a lively quarter filled with clubs and craft cocktails. For Hiltebrand, gastronomy was the next frontier, which is why she chose to establish Le Chef here.

I ask Hiltebrand to reflect on the rapid changes in Kreis 4: “We don’t appreciate being labeled trendy or cool,” she admits, acknowledging the risks of gentrification. “However, this place has countless stories about life. This is why I wanted to open in Langstrasse. I’m a party girl; I’m different.” The district’s creative energy has attracted diverse projects, reinforcing its reputation as one of Zurich’s most dynamic neighborhoods — a truth Hiltebrand knows well.

With a sparkle in her eye, she asks, “What are you doing after this?” Consequently, I spend the night exploring the highlights of Langstrasse alongside Hiltebrand, gaining insights from one of the district’s most passionate advocates.

Here is our curated list of can’t-miss spots in Zurich’s most exciting neighborhood:

Le Chef

During lunch, Le Chef offers a more traditional dining experience, serving a set menu of Zurich specialties like geschmorter Kalbsrücken to satisfy local patrons. Hiltebrand insists this is merely to cater to business clientele; her true ambition lies in offering diners a culinary journey. As evening approaches, the atmosphere shifts, with her three-to-five course menus featuring inventive flavor combinations such as white chocolate with salmon or carrot-flavored ice cream. Hiltebrand often greets guests personally and makes it a point to discuss dietary preferences, thus ensuring a personalized experience.

25hours Hotel

Boutique hotel brand 25hours chose Langstrasse for its second Zurich location, overlooking the bustling Zürich Hauptbahnhof train station. The smart, minimalist rooms contrast with the vibrant lobby, which features bicycles and goods from local brands like FREITAG‘s recycled truck tarpaulins.

NENI

25hours introduces its unique culinary style with NENI, where a modern Mediterranean menu featuring mezze and mixed grills is crafted from an open kitchen environment. The ambiance is enhanced by hanging planters and natural light streaming through floor-to-ceiling windows, allowing guests to observe the neighborhood’s vibrant nightlife as the rest of Zurich quiets down.

Kanonaegass

Hiltebrand introduced me to this charming hideaway, famed for its creative craft cocktails and DJs spinning European techno. We placed our trust in the bartender, who mixed refreshing summer beverages — a vodka-strawberry purée topped with basil and crushed hazelnuts, accompanied by a rum combo with coconut water and flakes — enjoyed on the sidewalk benches for a quintessential local experience.

Dante

On Hiltebrand’s recommendation, I visited Dante — an atmospheric bar reminiscent of a prohibition-era speakeasy, adorned with luxurious chandeliers, bow-tied bartenders, and intimate lighting. Behind the bar, stocked with artisanal gin, the talented mixologists craft delightful drinks such as the Ruby Collins, made with muddled raspberries, cardamom-infused gin, lemon juice, sugar, and ginger ale.

Josef

“Josef is my place,” says Hiltebrand. The restaurant’s decor is simple, yet the dishes inspired by chef Marcelo Drovandi’s travels through Mexico, Peru, and Vietnam are anything but ordinary. Tapas offerings include sautéed scallops paired with artichoke cream and fresh ceviche, arguably the best I’ve sampled outside of South America, complemented with avocado and sweet potato. Guests can dine outside on a lively patio or, if fortunate, near the semi-open kitchen to watch the culinary creations unfold.

Oberer Letten

A beloved summer hotspot, Oberer Letten is situated inside a repurposed S-Bahn train station. This riverside leisure center caters to Zurich’s youth with a diving platform, beach volleyball courts, and a skatepark. Guests can also enjoy refreshments at the Panama Bar and Primitivo. “It’s really special,” says Hiltebrand, “because Zurich values cleanliness, yet this locale embraces cultural openness.”

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