Summary
The French Quarter is the oldest part of the city, and after almost 300 years it remains a vibrant area. Start your exploration at Jackson Square, named for General Andrew Jackson, hero of the Battle of New Orleans, and its surrounds at Artillery Park, located on Decatur Street in front of Jackson Square. From this vantage point, you can see the Mississippi River behind you and Jackson Square in front of you.
The Mississippi River served as the primary artery for trade between Europe and the New World. In 1718, Jean Baptiste LeMoyne, Sieur de Bienville, transitioned the capital of the French Louisiana colony from Fort Biloxi to a riverine location. However, navigation challenges at the river’s mouth prompted local Native Americans to reveal a “secret” route through area lakes that led to Bayou St. John, assuring safe passage to this critical junction on the Mississippi. The City itself was founded in 1718, and its streets were neatly laid out in 1721. Notably, these streets honor Catholic saints and the Royal House of France, meaning Bourbon Street is named for the Royal House, not a drink.
New Orleans faced two catastrophic fires in the 1700s. The first ignited on Good Friday, March 21, 1788, due to a candle lit by Don Vincente Nunez at a religious altar. Tragically, the bells of St. Louis Cathedral, typically signaling an emergency, remained silent out of respect for Good Friday, resulting in 850 homes reduced to ashes within five hours. Another fire on December 4, 1794, rapidly destroyed an additional 212 homes. Consequently, the Spanish authorities enacted stringent building codes mandating thick brick walls, courtyards, and arcades—features visible in the Cabildo and the Presbytere reconstructed after the 1794 fire.
The Mississippi, the fourth longest river globally, drains 40% of all of America and spans over a half-mile in width. It is essential to note that you are standing atop a levee, originally a foot high but later ordered to be raised to three feet by Bienville. Post-American acquisition of Louisiana, the levee system management transitioned to the Army Corps of Engineers, profoundly impactful during events like Hurricane Katrina.
As you gaze at the Mississippi River, notice its crescent form curving to your left. This distinctive feature granted New Orleans its nickname, The Crescent City. Furthermore, the Mississippi continues to be the lifeblood of the City, with the Port of New Orleans managing approximately 500 million tons of cargo annually, making it the largest port for rubber and coffee as well as accommodating over 700,000 cruise passengers each year.
Jackson Square
Crossing Decatur Street will lead you into Jackson Square, a space that has served as a public square since the City’s founding in 1718. Initially known as Place d’Arms, it was renamed following the installation of the statue of Andrew Jackson, a hero of the Battle of New Orleans, during renovations in the 1850s. The statue, with its inscription added by Union General Benjamin Butler, emerged amidst tensions as women of New Orleans protested against Union soldiers by crossing the street to avoid them. In a bid to counter this protest, Butler threatened to prosecute those women as prostitutes, leading to further symbolic actions from the women of the city.
St. Louis Basilica, or St. Louis Cathedral, stands imposing behind the square. To its left is the Cabildo, which once served as a seat of Spanish governance and is now incorporated into the Louisiana State Museum. Following a fire in 1988, it underwent authentic restoration. Adjacent to the Basilica is the Presbytere, previously a residence for Capuchin monks and later a courthouse, which also became part of the state museum system. The Pontalba apartments, the oldest apartment buildings in the United States, were constructed between the 1840s and 1850s and today combine both residential and commercial spaces.
Presently, Jackson Square serves as the heart of New Orleans, frequented by locals and tourists alike, vibrant with artists, street performers, and fortune tellers. It is also a focal point for the French Quarter Festival held annually every April.
St. Louis Cathedral
The St. Louis Cathedral, accessible just outside the Chartres Street gate, was originally completed in 1729, though it was destroyed twice by fires in 1788 and 1794. The current structure replaced the earlier versions following the devastating last fire in 1794. Notably, during a visit by Pope John Paul II in 1984, it was elevated to St. Louis Basilica.
Be sure to explore the two alleyways adjoining the cathedral. The left alley, between the St. Louis Basilica and the Cabildo, is known as Pirate’s Alley, likely named after the adventurous Jean Lafitte, who fought alongside Andrew Jackson at the Battle of New Orleans. A smuggler adored by locals, Lafitte retaliated against a bounty on his head by placing a price on the governor’s head in turn. Officially renamed in 1964 from Orleans Alley South, this alley retains its historic stones, remnants of ballast from ships, notable for their unique European drainage design. Faulkner House, pivotal for literary history as the writing site of “A Soldier’s Pay,” is nestled within Pirate’s Alley.
Walking deeper into the alley, observe the central drainage, reflective of the European water management method. Given New Orleans’ location in the Mississippi River Delta, natural stones are scarce, thus the cobbled streets and alleys utilize stones discarded by ships no longer needing them. Local citizens repurposed these stones for construction, leading to an involved process whereby captains recognized and began selling the stones.
The Alleys On Either Side of the Cathedral
The alley nestled between the St. Louis Cathedral and the Presbytere is known as Pere Antoine’s Alley, named for Friar Antonio de Sedella, who arrived in New Orleans around 1774 and is rumored to haunt the area.
The Cabildo
To the left of the St. Louis Cathedral (as you face it) emerges the Cabildo, constructed in 1794. This notable building witnessed the signing of the Louisiana Purchase and also served as the government seat during Spanish rule. It now operates as a museum, featuring exhibits like Napoleon’s death mask.
The Presbytere
If you’re facing the Cathedral, look to its right. The Presbytere, previously the Capuchin monks’ residence and later a courthouse, now forms part of the state museum system.
The Pontalba Apartments
Flanking the square are the Pontalba Apartments, designed by Baroness Michaela Pontalba in the 1850s. These are renowned as the oldest apartment structures in the United States. The Baroness, a fascinating figure in New Orleans history, was born to Don Andres de Almonaster y Roxas, whose remains rest beneath the St. Louis Cathedral. Having survived an attempted murder by her father-in-law in Paris in 1834, she returned to New Orleans in 1848 to discover that many historic Creole families were relocating to Esplanade Avenue. Aiming to restore the charm of the French Quarter, she constructed grand row houses and lobbied city officials to revitalize the Square and surrounding areas to mimic iconic European public squares. Notably, she oversaw construction, often monitoring progress from atop scaffolding, successfully completing the project at a cost of $302,000 in just 2 ½ years.
Le Petite Theatre
Continue your journey onto Chartres Street, where you will encounter the Le Petite Theatre du Vieux Carre at the intersection of Chartres and St. Peter Streets. This venue has hosted regular theatrical productions since 1922 and continues to enchant audiences today, reputedly haunted by a well-dressed gentleman in evening attire.
Venture half a block up Chartres Street to discover a pink building marked by a historic plaque. It is here where, on March 2, 1788, Sr. Vincente Nunez lit the candle that sparked the devastating fire obliterating much of the city.
The Cafe Du Monde
After your immersive exploration, perhaps you feel ready for some relaxation. A visit to the Cafe du Monde next to Artillery Square promises delightful coffee and chicory, or a cafe au lait paired with scrumptious beignets (pronounced “ben yeahs”). Established in 1865, the Cafe du Monde is a cherished part of the original French Market and remains open 24/7, with the exception of Christmas Day and the occasional hurricane.
