Explore the Dolomites: A Guide to Scenic Hikes and Unique Experiences

Extraordinarily scenic, the Dolomites draw hikers of all abilities to Northern Italy. Although there are ample opportunities for solitude, a walk with an in-the-know local will help unlock the secrets of the “pale mountains.”

Stroll Through History to a Hilltop Castle

Arco Castle looks lifted from a fairy tale. Medieval and perched on a rocky spur surrounded by cypress trees, it seems a fitting spot to hide a princess or a hidden treasure. Eager to find out which, I set out one morning from Arco, the town that sits in its shadow, in the company of local historical guide Laura Tessaro.

“I’m afraid I only have two gears – fast or slow,” she says, opting for the more relaxed pace as we meander through the main piazza bathed in morning sun. A church bell tolls the hour as we make our way down a cobbled side street lined with laundry-strewn balconies, one trailing the blooming tendrils of a passion fruit plant.

Though less than an hour from Lake Garda and just as picturesque as the towns on its shores, Arco attracts only a handful of visitors.

“Here we are between the lake and the mountains,” Laura notes. “I like this town – it has stayed authentic.”

Those who do visit rarely miss the walk up to the castle. There are five slightly different ascents – some take in the town’s arboretum, abundant with Mediterranean vegetation, while others pass through olive groves; some climb steeply, others zig-zag up. Arco Castle’s position above the valley was strategic, Laura explains, allowing noble occupants to see who was coming.

Now, only ruins hint at its original structure. The excavation of a collapsed tower revealed a room decorated with 14th-century frescoes on an unusual theme – the education of women. Peering at the faded paintings in the gloom, I see maidens progress from playing dice to checkers, from backgammon to chess. In the final sequence, a young student triumphs against her teacher.

“Can you imagine?” says Laura. “At this time! When all of the power was with men.” It is indeed a treasure, a satisfyingly anachronistic ending to my fairy tale quest.

Stretch Your Legs and Search for Bears with a Park Ranger

“During my teenage years, my friends would be at Lake Molveno, hanging out with girls – but I’d always be here, alone, walking in the mountains,” says Michele Zeni, who works for Adamello Brenta Nature Park. Little has changed in two decades; now he gets paid to devote himself to the natural world. Michele resembles Bear Grylls, but has a gentle demeanor that is all his own.

“When you’re out on your own, you’re quieter,” he mentions. “So you see more animals.” His primary passion is for bears. His eyes light up as he recalls that first sighting and the four hours spent tracking a mother and her cubs. “For ancient people, the bear was a magical creature,” he shares. “They died every winter and were resurrected in spring – like Jesus.”

The weather turns dramatically as we set out from Malga Dagnola Bassa, a remote mountain hut in the nature park, yet abundant trees provide cover. Spruce and larch cones litter our path, alongside nests constructed by red wood ants from leaves. Michele encourages me to follow suit when he pats one nest gently. Afterward, our hands smell like vinegar from the acid the ants spray as a defense. As we ascend, Michele occasionally points out – in a near whisper – a rare flower, such as the protected martagon lily.

“Every meter you go up, you see fewer signs of humans,” he remarks with satisfaction.

The path reaches Malga Dagnola Alta, a hut in a clearing with views of a peak named Piz Galin. Michele explains that the rocks in this area are filled with small caves that bears use for hibernation. He offers his binoculars to search for signs of life – not just bears but perhaps a chamois or a ptarmigan. I squint and search in vain.

“There are animals here, but they’re shy,” Michele adds, noting their invisibility is a good thing. “A confident bear is a dead bear – those that come too close will be killed by a hunter; the ones that survive are the shy ones.” This portion of the Central Alps is home to around 70 brown bears, and Michele is content with only rare glimpses of them, so long as they remain safe.

Climb into the Mountains with an Alpine Guide

As the Grostè cable car gains altitude, my anxiety levels rise similarly. I am here to tackle my first via ferrata or “iron way”: part of a global network of mountain paths made more accessible by cables and ladders. Via ferrata began in the Alps and hold great significance in the Dolomites, where Italian and Austro-Hungarian soldiers created the paths as they vied for dominance in this critical WWI battleground.

Nearing the start of Sentiero Vidi, a beginner’s route in the northern Brenta Dolomites, I find myself battling nerves. “It’s my job to make people relax,” says Alpine guide Silvestro Franchini as he fits my harness. A former skier on Italy’s national team, he appears naturally at ease in the mountains.

“A via ferrata is not hiking, but it’s not climbing either – it’s somewhere in between,” he explains.

We begin easily, but the terrain steepens quickly, the narrow path ascending through an increasingly tree-less landscape that begins to resemble a lunar surface due to its barren grayness. Reaching an exposed area, Silvestro connects us with a rope, explaining how he’ll keep me safe if I lose my footing and sharing tips for the route.

“You climb first with your mind,” he says. “Next, with your feet – and only at the end with your hands.”

We navigate along a promontory, a dizzying drop on each side, clipping carefully to the metal wire at our waist. On the other side are the only other people we encounter: a cheerful septuagenarian tackling the path with his 16-year-old grandson.

Ascending a ladder through the clouds, we arrive at open ledges at the base of Pietra Grande (2937m/9636ft). The striations in the rock are as clear as tiger stripes.

“Each layer represents a different age,” Silvestro notes. “Another page in the mountains’ history book.”

Continuing along the path, I realize that being so high up has begun to feel almost normal. I appreciate the majestic views over the valley instead of fearing a tumble into them. Without the sound of my pulse racing in my ears, I begin to take notice of other sounds too: the whistling of a marmot and the distant clanking of a cowbell.

As we begin our descent, we pause at the top of a scree slope, where Silvestro takes my hand. “It’s time to let go of your fear!” he exclaims, guiding me in giant leaps down the rubble, tiny fragments of shale cascading in miniature landslides. Upon reaching the bottom, a meadow full of wildflowers greets me; I gratefully sink into the grass, resting my head among edelweiss and the chocolate-smelling blossoms of nigritella.

Forage for Edible Treasures with the “Lady of the Herbs”

There’s only one way to reach traditional mountain guesthouse Rifugio Nambino: on foot. From a woodland car park near the resort town of Madonna di Campiglio, the steep path winds upward through dense forest, following a rushing stream cascading over moss-covered boulders.

After about 20 minutes, I find its source: Lago Nambino, the meltwater-fed lake giving the guesthouse its name, sunlight shimmering on its surface. The charming wooden chalet shares the shoreline with only one other dwelling – a small house with squat chimneys and wooden shutters hidden among the trees.

This is the home of Eleonora Cunaccia, known to her friends as Noris, and to others as the “lady of the mountains.” Noris resides here throughout the summer, foraging for wild herbs and edibles, supplying local restaurants and transforming them into products to sell online.

Previously, Noris ran a restaurant, working tirelessly at her Michelin-starred establishment, but she pursued a new path after a divorce.

“I chose this life,” Noris remarks, pouring me a cup of fresh mint tea while insisting I take a slice of her moist carrot cake. “I love the freedom of being in the woods, working in a natural environment.”

Handing me a wicker basket, we set out together. Noris rarely moves more than a few steps before kneeling to the ground for another discovery: wild spinach, watercress, parsley, and tiny pink strawberries. In a field full of purple-flowering thyme, she scampers ahead of me like an eager elf, pulling up great armfuls.

“Yesterday, I made a soup with this,” she shares with evident pride. “Each day, I see what new things nature has for me, and I wonder – how can I use this?”

Work Up an Appetite Exploring a Dairy Farm

The cows of Malga Juribello, near the mountain resort of San Martino di Castrozza, are enjoying their summer holiday. This herd of Bruna Alpina, Pezzata Rossa, and Holstein Friesian cattle spends June to September at higher elevations, grazing on superior grasslands at 1900m (6234ft). They are unbothered as I approach on foot with farmer Claudio Valorz, who has cared for this malga – meaning both “mountain pasture” and “mountain hut” – for nearly two decades.

“I’m retired now,” he admits, “but I come anyway, for pleasure. Every year, the mountains call me back.”

It’s easy to understand why. The Pale di San Martino range looms over vivid green fields, creating a scene so picturesque it could be a backdrop for a chocolate commercial. A strapping teenage agricultural student demonstrates hand-milking on a stool. Although rarely utilized these days, most farmers still take pride in doing it well.

“Among the young, there is renewed enthusiasm for agriculture,” Claudio comments. “Instead of moving to the cities, many are staying on the land and utilizing new technologies.”

Alongside the 150 cattle, Malga Juribello also keeps sheep, pigs, rabbits, and goats.

“Our real purpose has always been as a teaching farm,” Claudio asserts. “To share our practices and showcase our way of life.”

We conclude our walk in the simple restaurant where a delightful breakfast awaits. I sample their hard cheese, its sharp and salty flavor complemented by honey. I devour pots of yogurt with chestnuts in syrup. Perhaps most remarkable is the butter, which I generously slather on slices of bread. With its rich yellow hue from high beta carotene levels in the Alpine grass and the many herbs and wildflowers the cows consume, it is the butteriest butter I’ve ever tasted, capturing the essence of the mountains in a single bite.

Make it Happen

Getting There and Around
Verona is the nearest airport to the Trentino Dolomites, but you could also consider flying into other nearby Italian cities such as Milan and Venice – or travel via Innsbruck in Austria. Since public transport is limited in this rural area, you’ll need to rent a car at the airport.

Where to Stay
The Trentino Dolomites offer a range of authentic mountain refuges, perfect for experiencing the unique atmosphere of the region while sampling its distinctive local cuisine, which is more Alpine than typically Italian. Consider booking a balcony room at Rifugio La Montanara for stunning views of the peaks and don’t miss a stay at lakeside Rifugio Nambino. In Arco, Garni On the Rock offers a solid base, while in San Martino di Castrozza, we recommend Hotel Cima Rosetta.

Further Information
The official tourist board website is loaded with inspiration as well as useful trip-planning tips. Some regions within the Trentino Dolomites, such as Madonna di Campiglio, also provide excellent resources.