Summary of Isla Espiritu Santo Adventure
Espíritu Santo is considered the most beautiful island in the Sea of Cortez off the west coast of Mexico. There’s no doubt that, if you’re living out of a backpack, there lies adventure in every single day. When your daily routine is so far removed from the ‘traditional’ 9-5 job, each moment can be thrilling, adventurous, terrifying, and hilarious all at the same time.
However, every now and then, you might come across a day that is so especially beautiful that it will stand out like a shiny trophy among your collection of adventures. For us, that memorable day was our visit to Isla Espíritu Santo.
Isla Espíritu Santo Overview
A recent visit to La Paz, Mexico had to be rescheduled not once, but twice while we were preparing our itinerary for Baja California Sur. Nevertheless, the mix-up allowed us to dedicate a full day to exploring Isla Espiritu Santo.
Fortunately, things happened as they did because otherwise, we would have missed out on what is regarded as the most beautiful island in the Sea of Cortez.
Our Airbnb host recommended Rebequitas Tours, arranging for us to meet our guide in town at 10:30 am. We boarded our panga (a small fishing boat) with a German backpacker, a couple from the US, their translator, and our Rebequita guide.
Having a small group of seven made for a much more personalized and enjoyable day exploring the nearby beaches and the island. Therefore, with no expectations, we set off from La Paz toward the open sea.
Discovery of San Rafaelito
The first stop of the day was at a little island called San Rafaelito. Upon our arrival, we saw a small white lighthouse; however, getting closer revealed a vibrant ecosystem with various birds and sea lions. Most were sunbathing on the rocks while others seemed to wave at us with their fins in the water.
We learned that sea lion flippers contain capillaries to regulate their temperature. When they’re cooling off by fanning their flippers, they are catching a breeze, and when swimming with their flippers out of the water, they are attempting to stay warm. Who knew?!
Relaxing at Balandra Beach
Following San Rafaelito, we continued north, admiring the stunning coastal landscapes while soaking in knowledge from our guide. As the dark blue waters transformed into a brilliant turquoise, we realized we had arrived at Balandra Beach. The waters here are not only crystal clear but also calm and shallow, making the beach experience delightful.
An iconic feature of this area is El Hongo de Balandra, or ‘The Mushroom of Balandra.’ This unique rock structure, shaped like a mushroom, is the result of thousands of years of erosion. Moreover, we followed the cutest dolphin over to Tecolote Beach, where our driver picked up our lunch and we enjoyed a short break.
Swimming with Sea Lions at Los Islotes
After over an hour at sea, we reached the highlight of our excursion: Isla Espiritu Santo and the chance to swim with the sea lions.
About Isla Espiritu Santo
Isla Espiritu Santo is part of the Gulf of California Biosphere Reserve, protected by UNESCO and the Mexican government under the Área de Protección de Flora y Fauna. The island is connected to Isla Partida by a narrow isthmus, and the sea lion colony we visited resides at Los Islotes, just north of Isla Partida.
Initially, we toured Los Islotes, observing dozens of sea lions basking in the sun on the rocks. Subsequently, donning our snorkel gear, we jumped into the water, brimming with excitement. Initially, we spotted only schools of tropical fish. However, when we first glimpsed a sea lion in its natural habitat, it truly took our breath away. The pups were particularly curious and playful, swimming close to us and creating unforgettable memories.
Enjoying Lunch at Ensenada Grande
Elated (and hungry), we bid farewell to the sea lions and continued our excursion. The tour included lunch, and we savored fresh ceviche and sandwiches at Ensenada Grande beach.
In this tranquil setting, with both Isla Partida and Isla Espiritu Santo uninhabited, we were amongst fellow tour-goers without feeling crowded. We took the opportunity to relax and explore the nearby coral using our snorkel gear before embarking on more adventures. The day was filled with engaging stops and stunning sights, making it an exceptional experience.
Other notable sights included the arch at Isla Partida, a rock formation resembling a mask, and the estuary featuring a historical pearl farm from over 100 years ago. There are times we prefer the ‘sans-guide’ route to explore on our own; however, this day proved how enriching it is to gain insights from our local guide.
Our boat ride back to La Paz was memorable, albeit for less favorable reasons. Although we were aware of the windy season (typically December to February in this region), the choppy conditions were unexpected.
To quote a favorite character from Seinfeld, ‘The sea was angry that day, my friends. Like an old man trying to send back soup at a deli.’ The turbulent waters didn’t deter our expert driver, who navigated swiftly while the rest of us clung to the boat with concern.
We safely returned to shore around 5:30 pm, just in time to witness a breathtaking sunset. It felt as if the universe was assuring us that, despite the angry sea, everything was going to be alright.
Key Takeaways for Travelers
If your schedule is tight or you prefer shorter excursions from La Paz, half-day tours are available that cover our initial two stops. You can swim with sea lions at San Rafaelito and enjoy the pristine beach of Balandra, which is also accessible by bus, approximately 27 km from downtown La Paz.
Tours in Mexico
When exploring tours in Mexico, it’s advisable to conduct thorough research to find the best prices. After conversing with fellow travelers, we realized we had secured an excellent deal for our Isla Espiritu Santo tour, likely thanks to our wonderful host’s connections.
While we couldn’t mitigate our timing in La Paz during the windy season, a reliable tour guide will inform you if it’s advisable to venture out to sea. For example, we experienced a rough return journey, but the next day would have posed even harsher conditions, making a trip to the island impossible.
Moreover, swimming with the sea lions in choppy waters is not the ideal scenario for many.
Although snorkel gear was provided, towels were not. We brought our own and sweaters, as our host had advised us about potential windy conditions for the return trip.
We genuinely encourage you to consider visiting La Paz and exploring Isla Espiritu Santo. This adventure was a highlight of our time in Baja California Sur, creating lasting memories that we will cherish throughout our travels in Mexico.
