Discover Houtong: Taiwan’s Enchanting Cat Village
Tucked away in the hills of northern Taiwan, Houtong is a charming village that houses a furry surprise. Set alongside the Keelung River, this former coal mining village has been transformed by hundreds of cats since the mining operations ceased in the 1990s. The village’s revival began in 2008 when local cat admirer Peggy Chien started sharing photos of her efforts to care for the stray cats, attracting visitors and volunteers alike.
In little more than two years, Houtong, located 35km east of Taipei in Ruifang district, has successfully reinvented itself as a complete cat village. Today, more than 200 cats call Houtong home, and a burgeoning tourist industry supports shops, cafes, and restaurants catering to the many visitors who descend on this feline sanctuary every weekend.
Village of Two Halves
Upon arriving by train, visitors will notice that Houtong is divided into two distinct halves. The half adjacent to the station building contains old coal processing machinery, restaurants, a visitors’ information centre (operating from 8am to 6pm, tel: 02 2497 4143), and a delightful riverside walkway leading to the former miners’ dormitory. A distinctive black covered “cat bridge” behind the station connects this area to the main cat village. While many cats are often found lounging in the charming cottages that cling to the hillside, they roam freely throughout Houtong, inviting visitors to enjoy a full day of exploration.
Cats Galore
The vibrant cat population in Houtong boasts a variety of colors and personalities, from black and ginger to tortoise shell and calico. Visitors can see these friendly felines lounging in flower pots, perched on shelves, or snoozing on vendors’ stalls filled with kitty-themed souvenirs. The best spots for cat observation are away from the busy central area, along the serene riverside path heading east from the station. It is common to find cats dozing under wooden benches and on the cool ledges of the cat bridge.
A dedicated volunteer team, alongside veterinary support, cares for the cats of Houtong. They administer vaccinations, spay and neuter cats, and implant microchips to maintain a kind of cat census. Although most of the cats are wild strays, they are accustomed to human interaction, often appearing well-fed and ready to nap after their meals.
Cat Courtesy
Visiting Houtong, guests will find the cats are generally friendly, though they do experience regular visits from curious tourists eager to pet and photograph them. Many shops sell cat food and snacks, but feeding the cats is discouraged. If you do choose to offer treats, limit it to just two or three small biscuits per cat. Additionally, some areas of the village feature signs reminding visitors not to feed, tease the cats, or use flash photography. While some cats enjoy petting, others may retreat at the sight of an outstretched hand, so it’s best to enjoy their company from a distance unless they approach you.
Kitty Kitsch
In Houtong, cat-themed merchandise is in abundance, showcasing the village’s affinity for its feline residents. Shops often play quirky music, blending cats meowing with electronic beats, and shopkeepers can be seen sporting furry cat ears. Here is a selection of cat-themed items you can find: cat notepads, ceramic figurines, mobile phone covers, coasters, socks, temporary tattoos, hand fans, mugs, purses, brooches, fridge magnets, and even cat-shaped pineapple cakes! One of the most popular souvenirs are the cat postcards showcasing artistic images of the village’s delightful kitties.
Feline Fare
Houtong offers a diverse array of eateries. Near the train station entrance, visitors will find a selection of noodle and dumpling shops that tend to be bustling with activity. The Cat Village Cafe, located behind the visitor information centre (tel: 0933 799541, open 9am-5pm, to 6pm on weekends), features a lovely riverside garden and serves excellent coffee along with snacks like toast and waffles. For a more substantial meal, head uphill to Walk N’ Taste Café (http://walkntaste.wix.com/walkandtaste), where refreshing iced teas, wraps, paninis, and hearty breakfasts await.
More than Mousers
When the feline crowds get overwhelming, Houtong offers many attractions beyond the adorable cats. Maps illustrating suggested walking paths are available at the visitor information centre. Nearby, you can find the remains of an eerie Japanese Shinto shrine (Houtong Jinja), dedicated to an earth goddess.
The preserved former mining facilities have been transformed into museums with excellent English explanations, depicting the miners’ lives through intriguing black and white photography and fascinating displays of personal items left in their lockers. Additionally, a toy train ride brings you through a mining tunnel, offering a playful glimpse into Houtong’s rich history. Surrounding hills feature numerous hiking trails that wind through scenic tunnels, across picturesque bridges, and along historic railway tracks.
Make It Happen
The simplest way to reach Houtong is by taking the train from Taipei Station. Board the Yilan line (usually heading towards Su’ao) and disembark at Houtong roughly an hour later.
One-way tickets cost NT$50, and trains run approximately every half hour during daytime hours. The last train back to Taipei departs at 9pm, though most attractions close by 6pm, so many visitors prefer to enjoy an afternoon of relaxation with the cats. To experience a quieter atmosphere, consider visiting on a weekday when there are fewer crowds.
