Exploring the Wonders of Greater Zion

The glories of southwestern Utah aren’t confined to the boundaries of its famous national park. The canyons of Greater Zion offer incredible hiking, horseback riding, and rock climbing opportunities.

Driving west last October through the stretch of southern Utah, where the Mojave Desert, Great Basin, and Colorado Plateau collide, I found myself reflecting on the word greater. The name Greater Zion was coined in 2019 to encourage visitors to think beyond the spectacular yet relatively small Zion National Park, which is only 232 square miles. In contrast, Yellowstone spans an impressive 3,472 square miles. This new designation serves as a reminder that Zion is merely a part of the abundant and majestic scenery in the region.

Following roads that wound through blazing canyons and valleys of russet-colored Navajo sandstone, I began to understand greater as not just a geographical term but as a symbol of beauty—more striking, more captivating, and more sublime than anywhere else.

Like many natural wonder destinations in the U.S., Greater Zion—a region of over 2,400 square miles—saw increasing visitor numbers amid the pandemic. “Folks were cooped up and confined, looking for places to experience some mental freedom again,” Kevin Lewis, the area’s director of tourism, shared. “They’re coming to enjoy an open-space experience.”

Traveling with Ben, my partner and equally awestruck chauffeur, from our home in Boulder, Colorado to Under Canvas Zion, we looked forward to experiencing the region by foot, horseback, and, for the bold, via rope and ladder.

From a distance, Under Canvas Zion appeared as a unique enclave of white tents nestled in red rock canyons. Up close, illuminated by fairy lights and campfires where children toasted marshmallows, it felt utterly idyllic.

Our tent was invitingly set between massive red boulders, offering a view of the expansive valley. Inside, I reveled in the comfort—a wood-burning stove, two elegant chairs, and a plush bed ensured four nights of rejuvenating sleep.

Before sleeping, I listened to eerie cries reverberating in the canyon. “Coyotes,” Ben explained, having grown up in Colorado. The Wild West felt truly alive.

Awakening before dawn was charming in this setting. After brewing coffee at Embers, the restaurant on the property, I watched the canyon walls glow with the sun’s first light.

Excited to explore, we engaged in **via ferrata** climbing—a new experience even despite our outdoorsy backgrounds. This Italian term refers to a system of cables leading across rocky inclines, allowing even novices to enjoy stunning views.

The climbing of a via ferrata gained popularity in the Italian Alps in the 1930s, as routes established for military use were transformed into recreational climbing experiences. These routes allow adventurers insights into breathtaking vistas typically reserved for experienced climbers.

We visited the charming Kolob General Store—an outpost on a winding road—where we met our guides, Cindy Alfaro and Jared Wright of the Utah Adventure Center, who exuded calm and assuredness before we tackled a thousand-foot rock face together on a route called Angels Leading Ledgewalk.

Equipped with robust harnesses, we traveled by buggy down a steep road and were briefed on safety measures for navigating the cable-and-anchor system along the cliffs, ensuring we remained securely attached as we moved upward.

The canyon was nearly silent aside from the sounds of our movements. Below, Kolob Creek shimmered like silver, running parallel to the Virgin River which carved through the mighty canyon of Zion.

A worthy stop on our journey was a breathtaking hanging garden, where we paused to admire a vibrant microclimate surrounded by the towering walls of the canyon, flourished with unexpected flora.

As we climbed a vertical ascent, I resolved to conquer the challenge without pausing for breath. Triumphantly reaching the summit, I stood on an encouraging overhang while my guide urged me to lean back and absorb the stunning view.

Highlighting Your Next National Park Adventure

We managed to meet representatives from the Zion National Park Forever Project at the Taylor Creek trailhead. Zachary Almaguer shared his journey moving from a corporate job in Texas to the region, echoed by Kacey Jones, a seventh-generation Utah resident. They proudly stated this hike, a gentle five-mile out-and-back trail, is one of their personal favorites.

As we progressed deeper into the finger canyon, we enjoyed the rich landscape formed by years of natural artistry, where “desert varnish” created abstract patterns across the rock faces.

Throughout this trip, it became clear that fewer challenges remain more crucial than blending the interests of an increasing number of visitors while protecting the breathtaking beauty of this environment. According to Lewis, the area represents the “land of endurance” yet remains ecologically sensitive.

Culturally, it is equally vital to acknowledge the traditions of Indigenous peoples who have long called this territory home. The original Southern Paiute name for Zion National Park is Mukuntuweap, meaning “straight canyon,” representing the landscape’s character.

We were guided to one of the top vantage points by Mark Wade, from Road Trippin’ with Bob & Mark, who shared captivating tales, including some about tragic accidents along the popular Observation Point trail.

Reaching the trail’s end brought exhilarating views of the majestic Great White Throne rising more than 2,000 feet from the valley floor. Below me lay the vast main canyon, traversed by the accurately named Scenic Drive, bathed in a soft haze that added an artistic touch to the scenery.

After an invigorating hike, we refueled in Springdale at Oscar’s Café, celebrated for its lively Mexican fare, perfect for hungry adventurers.

Later, relaxing outside Embers during dusk, a cheerful troubadour strummed his guitar as the moon rose, enhancing the warmth of the night with live music. Enjoying hearty Impossible Burgers paired with red wine, the amiable atmosphere was a perfect ending to our day.

The next morning, as I savored chia pudding, I found humor in the nonchalant demeanor of fellow campers, a gentle reminder that, despite luxurious offerings, we were still embracing the spirit of camping.

People in the region take pride in claiming that if it were anywhere else, Snow Canyon would hold the status of a national park. Located about 50 miles west of Zion, this stunning state park contrasts with the vertical drama of its neighbor showcasing a magnificent landscape of lava flows and petrified dunes.

Upon reaching Veyo, we delighted in a visit to Veyo Pies, a local gem famous for its delectable baked goods, including classic cherry pie with black coffee in hand.

Our journey led us to Water Canyon, where we encountered picturesque settings filled with cascading pools and mossy boulders, warmly inviting us to explore.

The Best of Greater Zion

Getting There

St. George Regional Airport, located just a 45-minute drive from Zion National Park, is serviced by United, Delta, and American Airlines.

Where to Stay

Under Canvas Zion: One of Under Canvas’s expanding glamping retreats near national parks, its luxurious tents provide a charming blend of pioneer aesthetics and modern comforts, offering incredible views of the canyon for an unforgettable glamping experience. Rates start at $359 per night.

Where to Eat

Oscar’s Café: A lively spot in Springdale serving hearty Mexican fare—a perfect destination for hikers to refuel. Prices range from $14–$32.

River Rock Roasting Company: A great place for a sundown beer and pizza, featuring stunning views of Virgin River Gorge. Meals priced from $10–$15.

Veyo Pies: Experience the deliciousness of freshly baked goods at this well-loved Veyo establishment, perfect for a sweet treat after your adventures.

How to Explore

Snow Canyon Trail Rides: Enjoy leisurely horseback tours through Snow Canyon State Park, famed for its striking geological features.

Utah Adventure Center: For those wishing to embrace heights or conquer fears, try a **via ferrata** experience, combining rock climbing with spectacular canyon views.

Zion National Park Forever Project: Get involved with this nonprofit organization that offers nature immersion experiences, including informative lectures, field classes, and guided treks.

For personalized travel advice, consider reaching out to Dan Austin (406-671-6067; dan@austinadventures.com), a travel advisor specializing in American national parks, ensuring your trip to the Greater Zion region is unforgettable.

A version of this story first appeared in the April 2021 issue of GoTravelDaily under the headline Song of Zion.