Exploring Margate in Winter

The Spanish costas wept this summer as Brexit, #flygskam (‘flight shame’) and the implosion of Thomas Cook conspired to ensure that British seaside towns got a handsome slice of England’s holiday budget. Margate was one of the principal benefactors. It’s an easy sell: long, fine-sand beaches with clean, just-warm-enough water; and, of course, Dreamland – a revamped, kitsch-cool theme park to be proud of.

Margate’s Art Scene

Margate’s ‘art scene’ is strong. Its blockbuster gallery the Turner Contemporary is hosting one of the world’s most esteemed art competitions this winter, the Turner Prize. Four shortlisted artists are presenting their best efforts until 12 January, with the winner announced on Tuesday 3 December.

The gallery anticipates 250,000 visitors (nearly twice as many as a regular exhibition). To celebrate this artistic milestone, the town’s creative community will run the regular Margate NOW festival till January, showcasing a relentless programme of fringe exhibitions and events in its increasing number of permanent and pop-up spaces. Even the old Primark has art in it. In Margate, winter is vibrant.

Attending the Turner Prize

“There’s a new focus this year on performance and live work,” says Sarah Martin, head of exhibitions at the gallery. “It feels very relevant, with all the artists addressing significant political subjects.”

Helen Cammock’s film The Long Note – which deals with women’s influence in Northern Ireland’s civil rights movement – feels timely on numerous levels. Although the film is lengthy, viewers can grasp the essence through various intimate interviews.

If the most avant-garde art is appealing, then dedicate time to appreciate Tai Shani’s colorful and chaotic installation. It challenges perceptions of feminism in innovative ways.

Oscar Murillo’s eerie effigies of refugees contribute poignancy to the exhibition, but our favorite is by Lawrence Abu Hamdan, who explores conditions within a Syrian prison solely through what the inmates could hear. It’s thought-provoking material.

Participating in the Margate NOW Festival

Upon arriving at Margate train station any day of the week (until January), you will encounter two brightly dressed volunteers ready to inform you of happenings in Margate. They represent Margate NOW, a dynamic arts festival running parallel to the Turner Prize.

This annual event has received substantial funding from the arts council, enabling exhibitions, events, and performances across diverse venues, including galleries, co-working spaces, cafes, and landmarks. Nearly 500 artists are contributing to around 70 locations in the town. Here’s our ‘don’t miss’ list:

• Departures by Jessica Jordan-Wrench (Margate train station, until 12 January)
  A noisy text installation centered around a split-flap display, exploring the concept of ‘now’.
• Last Night at The Bingo by Leigh Clarke (around town, until 12 January)
  Large-scale banner prints celebrate social interaction and participation following the closure of a local bingo hall.
• Gossamer, curated by Zoe Bedeaux (Carl Freedman Gallery, until 15 December)
  An exhibition uniting 22 artists working with tights or stockings – materials intimately connected to the female form.
• In the Future by Steve McPherson (Pie Factory Margate, until 4 December)
  A solo exhibition showcasing recent works using plastics found on beaches, reflecting the marker of our time.
• Lalochezia (Marine Studios, 7 December, 2-4.30pm)
  A workshop exploring the idea of using profanity to relieve stress, encouraging participants to “let stitch” during the holiday season.

Where to Eat in Margate

Amidst the cultural landscape, there is excellent food. Tim Williams, owner of Pie Factory Margate, reflects on the past, “I remember when the only place to get coffee on a Sunday was McDonald’s.”

Now, his favorite spot, the intimate 18-seat Italian restaurant, Bottega Caruso, located right across from the gallery, has been praised as “heroically wondrous” by restaurant critic Grace Dent.

Locals rave about the small plates at Sargossa, which opened on the harbor arm on the same day as the Turner Prize. You can dine while gazing out at the sea, akin to the artist Turner, but with a negroni and fried olives.

Rob Diament from Carl Freedman Gallery loves the charming fish restaurants scattered across Margate’s old town. If you have to choose, visit the 10-seater Angela’s, which gained recognition in the Good Food Guide shortly after opening last year. Be sure to make reservations.

For alternatives to fast food chains, our favorite is Cliffs, nestled between Polish stores and second-hand furniture shops on Northdown Road. Enjoy oat milk flat whites while browsing through vinyl records in a cozy setting.

Other Attractions in Margate

Surprisingly, winter can be enjoyable by the sea. While not everyone may wish to swim in Margate’s 83-year-old tidal pool, a bracing walk along the coast enables visitors to absorb its stark beauty. Be sure to stop by establishments like the quirky Walpole Bay Hotel (don’t miss their artists’ napkin collection) for a cozy drink.

Your stroll should include a visit to Margate Caves in Cliftonville, which reopened after a 15-year hiatus at the end of summer. Enjoy the beautifully refurbished murals while learning about its unusual history.

When inquiring about what to see, Sarah Martin, head of exhibitions at the Turner Contemporary, always recommends the Shell Grotto. This intriguing attraction, a series of shell-covered tunnels, has baffled historians and inspired creatives since its discovery in 1835.

If you’re up for cold-water immersion, consider diving near Margate’s stylish new wood-burning sauna on wheels, provided by Haeckels House, which currently resides on the Main Sands. The best part? It’s free for all unless privately reserved.

For additional information on activities and accommodations, visit enjoymargate.co.uk.