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Jul 1, 2019 • 5 min read
From seeking out vintage treasures at flea markets to finding the best places to drink France’s rarest spirits, GoTravelDaily Local Catherine Le Nevez delves into the intoxicating world of her home city, Paris. She even has tips on how to best tackle the Eiffel Tower.
What I love about Paris… is the rhythm the seasons bring to daily life. Chestnuts roast on street corners and ice rinks pop up around the city in winter. In spring and summer, old-time dancing outdoors revives the tradition of the guinguettes (open-air taverns/dance halls). Although many restaurants and smaller shops close in August, when most people leave for summer holidays, it can be a really peaceful time to be here; away from the tourist sights, the crowds evaporate. La rentrée, when everyone returns in September, is a great reunion.
My favourite festivals… feature live music, such as the Paris Jazz Festival and Classique au Vert. Both are held at the Parc Floral de Paris in the Bois de Vincennes, which is a huge forest at the city’s eastern edge, making it a great escape from the concrete throughout the year. Another highlight is the Fête de la Musique on the summer solstice, celebrated with stages set up on street corners and outside bars all over the city; it’s an electrifying atmosphere, and it’s free.
I like to shop… at the flea markets. I recently renovated my apartment, which is ancient and features stone walls, beamed ceilings, and a vaulted cellar. Consequently, I searched for vintage fittings in addition to frequenting hardware stores. The biggest and best flea market is the Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen, located in the north of Paris, boasting over 2000 traders spread across 15 marchés. Another excellent option is the Marché aux Puces d’Aligre, a central location for picking up glassware, silverware, and other homewares.
For food shopping… I visit the street markets for the freshest produce available in the city. There are numerous markets across Paris, and the Mes Lieux website lists them all by day and arrondissement (city district), with easy access via the metro. Department stores also offer inspirational food halls, such as La Grande Épicerie de Paris, conveniently located next to Le Bon Marché. In Le Marais, the gourmet emporium La Maison Plisson also features a brilliant café.
To eat out… Paris offers a truly multinational dining experience; visitors can find a range of dining options, from budget-friendly meals to fine dining establishments showcasing every imaginable cuisine. My longstanding favorites, however, are the classic bistros. A great choice is Chez Paul, located near Bastille, which is an absolute treasure. For a quick and inexpensive meal, crêpes are an excellent option. There’s a fantastic concentration of Breton crêperies in the 14e near Gare Montparnasse, where (not coincidentally) trains arrive from Brittany; rue du Montparnasse and rue Odessa are lined with them, so diners can wander along and select their favorite.
For a caffeine fix… quality coffee is easy to find today (something that wasn’t always the case). Parisian roasters Café Lomi, Coutume, and Belleville Brûlerie are outstanding choices; their beans can be found at cafés all over town, as well as at their own premises. Coutume boasts a fantastic Left Bank café, and Belleville Brûlerie’s La Fontaine de Belleville is conveniently located near Canal St-Martin, allowing for a lovely stroll along the canal’s towpaths to the Bassin de la Villette.
For drinks… Bar Hemingway, located at the Ritz, is legendary for its intriguing history (Hemingway allegedly liberated it during WWII and it’s adorned with memorabilia) and for its cocktails (the Bloody Marys with fresh-squeezed tomato juice are superb, though they come at a high price). Moreover, some exciting cocktail specialists have opened their doors, like Le Syndicat, which uniquely uses rare French spirits. Additionally, breweries are experiencing a boom; for instance, the waterside Paname features a spectacular tap room in a converted granary along the Bassin de la Villette. And, of course, good wines are abundant throughout the city.
When I have friends visiting… the river is a must (especially at sunset). The Batobus offers a tranquil perspective of the city’s landmarks: visitors can hop on and off enthusiastically all day, and it’s notably less touristy than the standard Seine cruise boats. I always recommend that first-time visitors catch the lift up the Eiffel Tower (pre-booking is essential to minimize the queues!), then take the stairs from the second floor to the ground – it’s the ultimate way to appreciate its ironwork up close. Moreover, the Arc de Triomphe‘s viewing platform provides stunning views down the Champs-Élysées.
A defining aspect of Parisian life… is that it’s lived on the streets. Most apartments are small (mine included), making parks, squares, cafés, and restaurants communal living and dining spaces. There’s a significant push to reduce car traffic and open outdoor areas, such as place de la République and place de la Bastille, as well as the Parc Rives de Seine: former expressways transformed into riverside parks on the Left and Right banks. It’s refreshing to see pollution being reduced (and not a moment too soon!).
My perfect weekend… involves browsing the bouquinistes (the dark-green secondhand book sellers along the Seine); catching some sunshine in a park (the city is filled with tucked-away gems, such as Paris’ oldest square, place des Vosges, which is surrounded by symmetrical cloister-like arcades, and the Promenade Plantée, the world’s first elevated park); and visiting a cultural centre. Ground Control is a current hotspot, formerly a postal sorting centre at Gare de Lyon, featuring an urban garden, shops, bars, street-food stalls, DJs, and concerts.
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Article first published July 2018, and last updated July 2019.
