Six years ago, GoTravelDaily Local Agnes Rivera traveled south along the Pacific Coast and landed in Lima, Peru. Quickly charmed by the capital city’s malecón, a coastal pathway that dips in and out of vastly diverse districts, her interest has remained piqued by the juxtaposition of Lima: at once the metropolitan center of Peru and the melting pot of the country’s numerous traditional cultures.
Dining Out in Lima
When I have friends in town… I head to Isolina, a popular tavern in the charming Barranco district. Recipes passed down generations are served up in portions so large they demand to be shared among friends. Dare yourself to try out some traditional criollo ingredients like boiled chicken blood (sangrecita) and calf’s brain (sesos). The colorful tiled flooring and shelves lined with pickled produce and pisco bottles create intriguing decor, and once inside, the steady buzz from the conversations taking place at every one of the heavy wooden tables will make you feel warm and welcomed.
Weekend Activities
I have a baby… so on Saturdays we usually go to the farmer’s market in Parque Reducto in Miraflores to keep us both happily distracted. Here you can stock up on fresh produce and tantalizing treats offered by local vendors before entering the green area. A lively band offers an hour-long jam session for the little ones, and nearby, numerous toy and game stations have been set up for various young age groups. If we manage to get out of the house early, I take advantage of the free yoga session offered to adults that takes place just a few paces away.
Perfect Date Nights
The best place to go on a date is… somewhere that keeps things interesting. Tucked on a small side street in Barranco, one of Lima’s trendiest districts, Microteatro invites you to catch a series of live performances that are just 15 minutes each. Grab a drink at the garage-turned-bar in between shows, a surprisingly intimate space lit by candles with a stroke of the wild thanks to the hanging plants. The little theater is within walking distance to some of the best bars and restaurants in the neighborhood, which also provides an escape route if the date is going stale.
Indulging in Local Flavors
For cheap eats… skip the bodega and find a food cart on just about any street corner to satisfy your cravings, be they salty, sweet, fried, or fresh. If I’m on the verge of getting ‘hangry’ and have some cash in my pocket, I opt for the large-kernel corn on the cob served with a salty hunk of cheese (choclo con queso).
Outdoor Excursions
When I want to get out of the city… I head north to Lomas de Lachay, a national reserve located within the Lima region. These desert hills receive just enough mist to sustain a thriving ecosystem from July to September. A welcome center provides information about the surrounding flora and fauna before you set off on a walk along the paths. As an Oregon native, I really miss being surrounded by greenery, and this unique national reserve truly quenches my thirst to see lush vegetation. It’s only about an hour’s drive from Lima.
Active Adventures
To break a sweat… I bike the length of the malecón, a paved promenade along the cliffside overlooking the Pacific Ocean. During weekends, it can seem like everyone in Lima is out enjoying the path, which is why I prefer to head out early. Cafes with ocean views, great parks for picnics, and a stunning cliffside shopping center are prominent highlights. If I truly want to get my heart racing, then I’ll hop off my bike and watch the adventurous souls who have opted for paragliding.
Navigating Public Transportation
Public transportation is… something everyone complains about but is used by all. The infamous kombis in Lima are crowded, loud, and a real adventure for any foreigner encountering such unorganization for the first time. Since I’ve lived here, public transportation has vastly improved and remains very affordable compared to taxis. More tourist-friendly districts can be accessed by city bus, though there’s often no posted schedule nor description of which buses go where, meaning you’ll need a local to point you in the right direction.
Scenic Views in Lima
For a great view… I take an urban hike up the Morro Solar headland in the district of Chorrillos. Barren and devoid of fauna, this hill is visible from nearly all sections of Lima’s extensive malecón and stands out due to a large Christ statue that overlooks the fishing community. The ascent reveals a stark contrast of neighborhoods: lopsided shacks to your left and the athletic and leisure club for Lima’s elite to your right. You’ll reach the lookout point in about 15 minutes, making you feel like you’re floating above the hustle and bustle of the city.
Delighting in Lima’s Coffee Scene
Satisfying my need for caffeine… isn’t hard in Lima. The rich soil of Peru, extending from the Amazon to fields in Cusco, produces spectacular coffee beans. For a quick espresso, I’ll stop by the Neira Cafe Lab in Miraflores, where coffee is much more than part of the morning routine. If I’m feeling experimental, I’ll sit at Barranco’s Colonia and Co. to sip on an iced brew infused with seasonal fruits while I explore local art or books in the neighboring gift shop.
Market Visits for Local Goods
For one-stop shopping… you can visit just about any district market, but my favorite is in Magdalena del Mar. Here, you can stock up on produce or sundries, have your pants hemmed, or get copies of keys made – whatever you need, there’s a vendor who can service you. Just be ready to barter. The abundance of diverse businesses, often family-run, in close proximity made a lasting impression on me when I first came to Peru, and I love the relationship that quickly develops between the seller and a loyal customer.
Exploring Museums and Galleries
When I’d rather be indoors… I’ll take a tour of museums and galleries in Barranco. I usually start or end at the Museum of Contemporary Art since they have a quaint outdoor cafe, making it a perfect spot for a tasty breakfast or lunch. My route often leads to MATE, Mario Testino’s museum, located just on the other side of Barranco’s main square. Numerous galleries and small museums in between have a charm that can be even more special than the art on exhibit.
