Share
Aug 14, 2018 • 4 min read
A born-and-raised Londoner, GoTravelDaily Local Lorna Parkes left the capital in 2015 for a family-friendly life in Leeds, Yorkshire. Between her travel gigs for GoTravelDaily, she spends her days enjoying specialty coffee, exploring independent food spots, and trying to resist the local craft breweries’ latest beer offerings.
When I have friends in town…
I take them beer tasting. Yorkshire’s rich brewing heritage dates back centuries, and Leeds boasts some of the country’s best microbreweries and craft-beer bars. I always start at Northern Monk, known for its exceptional, hoppy American-style IPAs (my favorite) and rotating kitchen residencies that support local indie food startups—perfect for satisfying hunger. During the summer, I head to Eat North, a vibrant street food and craft beer festival featuring DJs, set at the North Brewing Co brewery. I might wrap up the evening with international craft beers and Indian street food at Bundobust to regain my equilibrium.
When I feel like splurging…
I indulge in window shopping at the luxurious 19th-century shopping arcades in the Victoria Quarter. I treat myself to a charcuterie plate of Iberico Bellota paired with a glass of premium wine at Friends of Ham. Although Leeds is renowned for its beer, quality wine can be scarce, making this British and European deli-bar a special find.
A typical weekend involves…
brunch and browsing. Artisan coffee culture thrives in Leeds, and my go-to brunch spot is the North Star Coffee Shop & General Store, managed by the city’s local roastery. The coffee is robust with tasting notes, and the breakfasts are exceptional, especially the creamy slow-scrambled eggs on a four-cheese rye scone from their onsite bakery. It’s conveniently located near the free Royal Armouries museum, perfect for a family outing, especially on a rainy day. Additionally, I often explore Kirkstall Abbey for biking around the stunning Cistercian ruins and enjoying lunch at their monthly food market.
For cheap eats…
I head to Kirkgate Market, which has integrated a street-food area into the traditional market (est. 1857). Given Leeds’ textile manufacturing history, Indian food is a local specialty, highlighted by award-winning Manjit’s Kitchen, known for its delicious vegetarian Indian street food plates (and Yorkshire craft beers). A must-try is the large, crispy onion bhajis served with tamarind chutney. In the evening, I visit Belgrave Music Hall & Canteen for affordable slices of gourmet pizza in a lively atmosphere.
If I can get a babysitter…
I reserve a table at Ox Club and unwind at the jazzy rooftop bar of Headrow House. Conveniently, they share the same building, once an unremarkable pub, now evolving into one of Leeds’ most vibrant nightlife venues. As a passionate foodie, I believe Ox Club is the city’s top midrange dining spot, serving innovative dishes like heritage tomatoes with goat cheese ice cream and lemon verbena. The rooftop bar offers breathtaking views of Leeds’ Victorian center, complete with plush seating created from reclaimed wood and a striking neon sign that declares ‘THE WORLD IS YOURS’.
When I want to get out of the city…
I drive to the Yorkshire Sculpture Park, an 18th-century estate about a 30-minute trip south of Leeds. It’s family-friendly with over 200 hectares to explore, showcasing impressive sculptures by artists such as Ai Weiwei, Andy Goldsworthy, and the local Barbara Hepworth.
My favorite hangout…
is Granary Wharf, the endpoint of the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. This picturesque area is perpetually adorned with narrowboats and features one of my favorite bars, Water Lane Boathouse, housed in a converted boat shed. Leeds is quite far inland, making this canal-side location ideal for enjoying a drink or taking a stroll along the towpath.
One thing I hate about Leeds is…
the weather. Being in the North of England, the climate can be unpredictable, with summers rarely exceeding 22°C and characterized by low humidity. Consequently, enjoying an outdoor lifestyle can be challenging.
On a cold winter’s day…
everyone in Leeds seeks the coziest seat by the fire in local pubs. It’s wise to plan ahead for Sunday lunch, as the traditional British roast pub dinner is a must-try in Leeds. Frequenting places like Cross Keys pub and The Reliance are two of my cherished choices for an exceptional meal.
On my daily commute…
I consistently admire the street art, particularly the palm-tree sculpture titled The Sun Shines Every Day Forever (2018) by Matthew Houlding, located outside the old Tetley brewery HQ, close to my co-working space. Locals often sit on it during lunch, although I can’t bring myself to join them as it feels like I would ruin the artwork.
