Following our visit to Nuuk and embarking north along the eastern coastline of Greenland, we ultimately arrived in Qeqertarsuaq, located in Disko Bay. This area is iconic for visitors to Greenland, and justly so.
For many years, Disko Bay has constituted a prime destination for travelers to Greenland, and it certainly lives up to expectations.
The bay has been explored by Norse settlers centuries ago, retaining its inherent beauty throughout the years, at least in my imagination.
After an early evening following our excursion in Nuuk, we arrived at Qeqertarsuaq, a vibrant town inhabited by a few hundred residents. Positioned on the western edge of Disko Island, our captain identified an opportunity to anchor and facilitate our transfer to shore using zodiacs.
We were filled with anticipation, particularly since we landed at dawn—well, to be precise, we arrived around 8 a.m. as sunlight broke around 2 a.m.
Without delving into excessive detail, we swiftly made our way to Qeqertarsuaq via zodiacs, a journey of approximately four minutes from the Ocean Albatros’ anchor point.
Upon disembarking on Disko Island, we seized the chance to explore the town and the expansive coastline to the west. Although we considered joining one of the guided tours arranged by Albatros Expeditions, we expressed a desire to adhere to our own itinerary.
Qeqertarsuaq conveyed a charming atmosphere. While it is small and hosts only a handful of bars, restaurants, and shops, its character and vibrant colors make it an ideal location to view drifting icebergs from Disko Bay.
During our exploration, we visited noteworthy sites, including the iconic church, stopped for coffee at the hotel, and perused the Qeqertarsuaq Museum. Although small, it offers a charming experience and is well worth the visit while in Qeqertarsuaq.
As we traversed Qeqertarsuaq, we encountered fascinating huskies. Notably, these dogs fall under the category of ‘working dogs’ in Greenland and cannot be domesticated in the same manner as typical household pets. Thus, we opted against direct interaction, as advised by the expedition crew aboard the Ocean Albatros.
Of course, this enthusiasm did not offset our caution; we respected the indigenous approach to these working animals. The previous reminder from the expedition crew reinforced this respect.
Now at the whale-watching hut, we anticipated observing marine life, though our hopes went unfulfilled, having seen none during our hour-long vigil.
Nonetheless, this experience paved the way for numerous floating icebergs to grace our view, which is often more reliable than whale sightings. We’ve learned through travel that guarantees are seldom in existence when it comes to wildlife spotting.
Qeqertarsuaq genuinely surprised me; I hadn’t previously encountered this charming town in my research for Greenland. The visit was a pinnacle experience, especially as it marked our first location beyond the Arctic Circle in this remarkable country.
Our journey through Disko Bay was filled with intrigue, a region historically rich in visitors ranging from Inuit to Norse explorers. As we navigated this picturesque bay, we began to understand the allure this area has held for voyagers throughout centuries.
Sailing through the bay, we deftly maneuvered between massive icebergs and the sprawling mountain ranges that contour Disko Bay.
This idyllic scenery left a lasting impression, as we admired the view for hours before finally making our way towards Oqaatsut, meandering through glacial channels in route to our next destination: Eqip Sermia.
Eqip Sermia is not a town; rather it is an impressive glacial region characterized by a colossal ‘hanging glacier.’ Photographic attempts to capture its grandeur fail to convey the reality of this natural phenomenon; it simply must be seen to be believed.
The imposing ice wall is in a constant state of movement and calves dramatically into Disko Bay, resulting in substantial ice chunks collapsing into the water, often without prior indication.
During our several hours of observation, we witnessed this breathtaking occurrence approximately five times, with the resulting crashes, waves, and disruptions echoing powerfully within the bay. It is a strikingly captivating sight, though one that necessitates an understanding of the hazard it entails.
As our zodiac voyage concluded, we returned onboard the Ocean Albatros and headed straight to dinner on the upper deck. With the sun illuminating our surroundings, the culinary team organized a BBQ with expansive views of Eqip Sermia, providing a visual and gastronomic feast.
