Summary
Since author Frances Mayes undertook the renovation of her dilapidated villa in the publication Under the Tuscan Sun, and actress Diane Lane compellingly depicted that experience in the cinematic adaptation in 2003, Tuscany has significantly reinforced its image characterized by rustic elegance, romance, and more contemporarily, Instagrammability.
This central Italian region offers far more than mere pastoral charms and picturesque landscapes (albeit these are plentiful). In the spirit of the Italian Renaissance, which commenced in the 14th century, Tuscany is a cosmopolitan area filled with academic towns and innovators in both the creative and scientific domains. It draws inquisitive individuals globally who appreciate its humanistic essence. For those visitors, here are essential considerations to ponder prior to your arrival.
1. If you’re in Florence, you’re also in Tuscany
Due to branding perceptions, many first-time visitors to Florence envision Tuscany as a distant, idyllic region apart from civilization. However, Tuscany constitutes one of Italy’s 20 regions, akin to a state, with Florence serving as its capital, notably lacking in extensive greenery within its historic core.
If you explore the countryside, you will indeed encounter the well-known postcard-like vistas, hay bales, and vineyard vines; however, there are also places that defy stereotypes, such as the untamed Maremma, the islands of the Tuscan archipelago, and the Swiss-influenced Lunigiana. Avoid the common misunderstanding of telling guides or locals in Florence that you plan to “visit Tuscany” — you are already within its borders.
2. Tuscany is a year-round destination, depending on what you want to do
Although it’s feasible to enjoy Tuscany throughout the year, for culinary enthusiasts, September and October are optimal months due to the grape harvest (vendemmia) and related celebrations. October initiates the transition to the olive harvest, which typically wraps up by early December.
If you identify as a culture enthusiast intending to frequently visit museums, monuments, and various attractions, winter (particularly January and February) may be preferable, as holiday crowds thinnet, allowing greater ease in both major and lesser-known sites.
The summer months generally bring crowds and high temperatures, and in August, a number of Tuscans take time off work for the Ferragosto holiday (commonly from August 15 and surrounding weeks), resulting in business closures or reduced hours.
3. Tuscany’s two main airports are in Pisa and Florence
Both airports are relatively small and primarily cater to domestic and European flights; however, the Pisa airport, otherwise known as Galileo Galilei Airport, is larger and serves as a significant connection to the city center and train station through the People Mover shuttle. Meanwhile, Florence’s Amerigo Vespucci airport connects to the Santa Maria Novella train station and the city center via tram or taxi.
If you are undertaking a transatlantic journey, you will likely transit through another European hub to arrive at Florence or Pisa. For those whose Italian itinerary extends beyond Tuscany, consider arriving in Rome, Milan, or Venice and subsequently traveling to Tuscany by train.
4. You don’t need a car in towns and cities
Most historical centers in Tuscany are designated as traffic-limited zones, denoted as ZTL (zona traffico limitato) in Italian, prohibiting non-residents during certain periods. While renting a vehicle is an ideal approach to discover the countryside and access remote regions, it can be more of a hassle in urban areas.
Although ZTL regulations can differ, it is advisable to navigate the cities on foot, provided you are reasonably fit. Note that the steep streets of towns like Siena and narrow sidewalks in places like Florence indicate that visitors with mobility challenges may need to collaborate with specialized travel companies to ensure their requirements are met.
5. Pack simple, classic clothes in neutral colors to blend in
Contrary to stereotypes, not every individual in Tuscany is adorned in designer attire; however, standards of dress and grooming standards certainly differ from those encountered by some travelers. Wearing wet hair in public is considered a cultural misstep, and exercise clothing is typically confined to gym environments.
Although younger generations are becoming more relaxed, Tuscan culture remains notably mindful of appearances, favoring classic styles and neutral colors in the clothing choices of residents.
6. The typical Tuscan sense of humor can catch visitors off guard
Dante Alighieri famously composed his Divine Comedy in the Tuscan vernacular during the 14th century, setting the foundation for standard Italian and establishing Tuscany as the birthplace of contemporary Italian language. This linguistic heritage points to a cultural affinity for wordplay and humor; consequently, the prevailing tone is often sarcastic and irreverent, with a generous use of expletives and “creative” forms of blasphemy, which may not always resonate positively with English speakers.
7. Regional rivalries run deep here
Among the most notable rivalries are those between Florence and Pisa (spurred by both contemporary soccer teams), Pisa and Livorno, and Florence and Siena, each tracing their origins back centuries to early economic power struggles. Presently, these rivalries are largely portrayed in a light-hearted manner; a humorous suggestion of disfavor towards another locality is a common gesture to strengthen connections with locals. When expressed cheerfully rather than with a sense of superiority, such humor is typically well-received, potentially fostering new friendships.
8. Lunch and dinner follow set schedules
Authentic Tuscan trattorias and mid-range restaurants adhere to relatively standard operating hours; lunch service commences around 12:30 PM, closing around 2 to 2:30 PM. The customary dinner hour starts at 7:30 PM, with late arrivals usually happening between 9:30 and 10 PM, possibly extending a little later on weekends and in urban areas.
Any sit-down restaurants that portray themselves as traditional yet operate outside these timings (for example, lunch at 11 AM or dinner at 5 PM) tend to cater to tourists and likely lack quality cuisine. Within cities, new establishments may offer all-day dining options (typically noted by an orario continuato sign), but they do not mimic the ambiance of traditional trattorias; such places may not align with what travelers seek.
9. Some travelers may feel marginalized by Italy’s current social and political climate
Tuscany has a historical legacy of social progressivism; it played a pivotal role in opposing Benito Mussolini’s fascist rule and represents a stronghold of Italy’s left-leaning “Red Belt.” Notably, it was the first Italian region to outlaw discrimination against the LGBTIQ+ community in employment, public services, housing, and education.
Nevertheless, the present Italian government has adopted stringent conservative stances concerning social issues, leading to retractions of LGBTIQ+ rights and restrictions on irregular migration, inflaming tensions against already marginalized groups, even in more progressive areas like Tuscany. Additionally, prior to the current government’s narrowed definition of “Italianness,” many Black travelers in Tuscany, particularly Black women, have voiced experiences of microaggressions and occasional overt racism. While Tuscany generally welcomes travelers from diverse backgrounds, advocating for oneself may sometimes be essential.
This article was first published on Oct 23, 2024, and updated on Oct 24, 2024.
