Think you know Thai food? Think again. Thailand’s cuisine takes a different form every time it crosses a provincial border, and the dishes of Thailand’s northern provinces are no exception.
Northern Thai food is a world away from the dishes you’ve probably encountered at your local Thai restaurant at home – or even in Bangkok. The food of the north is indicative of the region’s seasonal and relatively cool climate, and highlights a love for pork, vegetables, and all things deep-fried.
Paradoxically (and unfortunately), it can be quite difficult to find authentic local food in northern Thailand. Outside of Chiang Mai and other large cities in the region, there are relatively few restaurants serving northern-style dishes. Most of the authentic local food is sold from stalls in “to go” bags.
However, if you manage to come across a restaurant serving northern-style food, these are the top dishes worth trying.
Gaang hang-lair: A Mild Pork Belly Curry
Burmese in origin (hang is a corruption of the Burmese hin, meaning curry), this dish brings together fatty pork belly, a mild spice mixture, and ginger and garlic. It is a regular at festivals and ceremonies in northern Thailand. Try a bowl at Tong Tem Toh in Chiang Mai.
Gŏo-ay đĕe-o sù-kǒh-tai: A Sweet Pork and Noodle Broth
Sukhothai’s signature dish combines noodles, a slightly sweet broth, pork, par-boiled long beans, and bean sprouts, garnished with ground peanuts and thinly sliced fresh herbs. Compare bowls at neighboring noodle shacks Jayhae and Ta Pui.
Jìn đúp: Tender, Marinated Beef
This dish involves taking a tough, grainy cut of beef, marinating it, grilling it, then beating it until tender. Jìn đúp is one of the more distinct dishes in the northern Thai culinary repertoire. Sample this hard-to-find specialty at Muu Thup in Mae Sariang.
Kôw gân jìn: Minced Pork and Rice Steamed in Banana Leaf
This traditional dish from Mae Hong Son consists of rice mixed with blood and minced pork, steamed in a banana leaf package. It is served with a generous drizzle of garlic oil. Try it at Mae Hong Son’s vibrant morning market.
Kôw soy: Fragrant Noodle Curry Broth
Kôw soy is arguably the most famous northern Thai dish, combining wheat-and-egg noodles with a rich, fragrant curry broth. Closely linked to Chiang Mai, this dish was likely introduced by traveling Chinese merchants. Enhance your dish with pickled vegetables, shallots, lime, and ground chilies fried in oil. A renowned spot to try this dish is Khao Soi Lam Duan Fah Ham.
Kà-nŏm jeen nám ngée-o: Pork and Tomato Rice Noodle Broth
This dish of fresh rice noodles topped with a tart, savory pork-and-tomato-based broth can be found across northern Thailand. It’s akin to a northern Thai bolognese. Grab a bowl from street stalls just outside Chiang Mai’s busy Talat Tom Lam Yai.
Lâhp kôo-a: Minced Meat Salad
This traditional northern Thai dish takes the famed Thai minced meat “salad,” sometimes known as larb, and fries it with a mix of dried spices. Try it at Larp Khom Huay Poo in Pai.
Nám prík nùm: A Spicy Sticky Rice Dish with Pork Crackling
This popular dish revolves around grilled long green chilies, shallots, and garlic, which are mashed into a stringy and spicy paste. Served with sticky rice, parboiled vegetables, and deep-fried pork crackling, it’s a beloved favorite in northern Thailand. Try it at Huean Jai Yong in Chiang Mai.
Nám prík òrng: A Chili Dip
This legendary northern Thai chili dip is made from tomatoes and minced pork, simmered until savory and rich. Like other northern Thai-style dips, it’s enjoyed with sticky rice, vegetables, and, of course, deep-fried pork crackling. Try it at Huen Phen in Chiang Mai.
Sâi òo-a: Grilled Sausage
This grilled pork sausage, seasoned with fresh herbs, may have you reconsidering your favorite sausages. A unique version is available at Mae Hae, a longstanding restaurant in Lampang.
This article was first published on June 25, 2015, and updated on January 3, 2022.
