Essaouira, Morocco, is a laid-back coastal town that offers travelers a refreshing escape from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech, located just a few hours away. Visitors are enticed by Essaouira’s beautiful beaches, fresh seafood, and vibrant medina.

Attractions

Essaouira’s most notable attraction is its tranquil atmosphere. As a compact beach town, it exudes a holiday ambiance, serving as a working port and fishing hub.

The Medina and Souqs (Markets)

If the medinas of Marrakech or Fes felt overwhelming, Essaouira presents a more relaxed shopping environment (though prices may not be better). The medina is encircled by walls featuring five main gates for navigation. Car-free and notably clean, the souqs (bazaars) are easy to explore without the fear of getting lost, primarily located at the intersection of Rue Mohammed Zerktouni and Rue Mohammed el-Qory. It is a compact area, allowing you to wander at your leisure and investigate any intriguing narrow alley. However, it is advisable to avoid the Mellah section of the medina at night.

Ramparts and the Port

Essaouira’s walls, akin to many ancient Moroccan towns, feature impressive ramparts that perch atop the cliffs. Both locals and travelers often enjoy walking along the ramparts during sunset. The port, bustling with fishing boats, hosts a significant fish auction every Saturday, and it’s entertaining to observe the daily catch being sold to the restaurants around the harbor each afternoon.

Beaches

Positioned along the Atlantic coast, Essaouira features cold waters and substantial winds, making it less suitable for swimming or sunbathing. However, it is ideal for surfing, windsurfing, and kite surfing—activities that are delightful to watch, even if you choose not to participate. The beach, extending approximately 6 miles (10 km), provides ample space for leisurely strolls, as well as a playground for locals engaging in soccer and other summer sports.

Hammams

While Essaouira may not have the finest hammams, it offers an opportunity to experience a traditional Moroccan steam bath, particularly for those seeking a more intimate atmosphere. The sexes are segregated, providing a unique chance for women to connect with local Moroccan women. Consider indulging in a scrub with traditional black soap for a truly delightful experience. Notable options include Hammam de la Kasbah (for women only) and Hammam Mounia.

Gnaoua World Music Festival

The Gnaoua World Music Festival, a significant annual event in Essaouira, occurs over three days each June. The Gnaoua people, descendants of African slaves, have established brotherhoods throughout Morocco and include master musicians (maalem), castanet players, clairvoyants, and mediums among their ranks. This festival not only features their talents but also showcases international musicians inspired by this genre of music and mysticism.

It is advisable to arrange accommodations well in advance for this festival.

Getting to and From

Most visitors arrive in Essaouira by bus, as there is no train station. A direct daily bus runs from Casablanca to Essaouira, taking about 6 hours. Buses from Marrakech typically last around 2.5 hours, with several companies operating the route. Departures occur at the Bab Doukkala bus station in Marrakech. CTM, Morocco’s largest and most reliable bus company, is a good starting point for checking prices and availability.

Alternatively, travelers can book both bus and train tickets with the Supratours Bus Company, which operates daily departures from Essaouira directly to the Marrakech train station for connections to Casablanca, Rabat, or Fes.

Travelers have reported that Grande Taxis provide rides from Marrakech airport to Essaouira during the day. Otherwise, you can take a taxi to the main bus station in Marrakech, where buses to Essaouira are readily available.

Getting Around

Walking around Essaouira is the preferred mode of transportation, showcasing the charm of this coastal town. Petit taxis serve as an effective means to travel from the bus station to your hotel, although they are not permitted to enter the medina. Bicycles and motorbikes can be rented within the town; inquire at your hotel’s front desk.

Where to Stay

Riads (traditional Moroccan houses converted into small hotels) are my preferred accommodations across Morocco, with Essaouira offering several excellent options within its medina. Many riads have undergone meticulous renovations using local materials, showcasing intricate tile work, whitewashed walls, and traditional decorations—each room within a riad is uniquely designed.

Often tucked away in serene alleyways, these riads require assistance to navigate luggage as vehicles cannot access the medina. Owners are generally helpful if informed about your arrival time.

Recommended Riads

• Dar Liouba – This welcoming and homely riad, located in a tranquil part of the medina, features 7 double rooms, a rooftop terrace, and a cozy shared space.
• Dar Emotion – Nestled in the medina’s heart, this moderately priced riad offers 5 comfortable rooms, along with a rooftop terrace for breakfast and communal areas.
• Ryad Watier – A larger riad housing 10 suites, a lovely garden, a hammam, and massage rooms. Guests can enjoy breakfast with ocean views from the rooftop and find solace in the extensive library, complete with traditional meals prepared from fresh local ingredients.

Places to Stay Outside Essaouira’s Medina

If you prefer hotels featuring swimming pools, or if navigating Morocco’s medinas feels daunting, consider the following alternative accommodations:

• Madada Mogador – An elegantly decorated hotel with a nouveau-Moroccan style, providing breathtaking ocean views from its rooftop terrace, ideally located just behind the town’s ramparts.
• Ocean Vagabond – Close to both the beach and medina, this property boasts a garden, swimming pool, hammam, and 14 uniquely designed rooms with stunning views.
• Baoussala – Located a mere 10-minute drive from Essaouira, this serene hotel is perfect for those looking to unwind. Visitors rave about its delectable food and warm service, with six spacious, uniquely decorated suites available.

Where to Eat

As a fishing town, Essaouira’s locally grilled sardines are a must-try during your visit. Numerous restaurants line the harbor, offering fresh fish specials daily. Some of the best dining spots, however, are hidden within the riads throughout the medina. Don’t hesitate to ask your hotel manager for recommendations. The Place Moulay Hassan, situated at the port’s edge, is an excellent locale for a drink and affordable Moroccan cuisine.

Recommended Restaurants

Chez Sam at Essaouira’s port specializes in fish and seafood and features a lively bar, although you may encounter fewer local patrons.

Riad le Grande Large garners attention for its exceptional traditional meals more than its rooms, with dining experiences often enriched by live music.

For those willing to indulge, Chez Georges is one of the pricier dining options in Essaouira, offering al fresco dining—be sure to dress warmly.

When to Go

Essaouira experiences minimal rainfall from March to October, marking this period as the ideal time to visit. At the end of June, the Gnaoua Music Festival provides a vibrant cultural experience; however, if you don’t wish to navigate a bustling crowd, it may be best to avoid this timeframe.

In summer (July and August), the town attracts both visitors and local Moroccans seeking relief from the inland heat. Despite summer temperatures rarely exceeding 80°F (26°C) due to constant winds, if you prefer to sidestep tourist groups, May, June, and September represent the perfect visiting months.

Winter temperatures usually reach 60°F (15°C) during the day, which may be too chilly for swimming or sunbathing but remains pleasant for browsing the medina boutiques.