Prices in Morocco have risen along with its popularity, but there are still bargains to be had. In the relaxed seaside city of Essaouira, many of the attractions are free: exuberant music festivals, gallery-hopping around the 18th-century medina, gazing over the ocean from its honey-coloured ramparts, watching fishermen at work in the postcard-pretty harbour, and strolling along its endless golden beaches.
The Medina and Beyond
Essaouira’s fortified old city – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – is compact and walkable. Unlike the labyrinthine medinas of other Moroccan cities, it’s hard to get lost here. Just pick up one of the many free maps in shops, restaurants, and hotel lobbies, and explore.
The open-fronted emporiums that line the main thoroughfare, Ave de l’Istiqlal, and the hassle-free souqs that fan out from it are as much for locals as for visitors. If you’re up for a rummage, the Sunday souq a short walk from Bab Doukkala is the place to find real bargains. A seemingly endless line of makeshift stalls sells everything from kaftans to car parts. Get there early to beat the crowds.
Venture into the crumbling mansions that make up the Mellah, formerly the Jewish quarter, and look for stones engraved with the six-petal rose of Mogador (the city’s Portuguese name) and the Hammam Babsi that appeared in Orson Welles’ 1951 film, Othello.
The ramparts of Skala de la Ville and the hulking Bastion Nord (closed for renovation, but free to explore when they’re open) had a starring role in Game of Thrones as Astapor, the infamous city in Slaver’s Bay where Daenerys Targaryen freed the Unsullied army of eunuch slave soldiers.
While the picturesque harbour – complete with sea-colored wooden boats, leathery fishermen, and seagulls circling overhead – has its own Skala du Port (entry Dh10), where you can capture that iconic shot over the walled medina featured in tourist brochures.
Music and Art
For four days every June, Essaouira is taken over by the Gnaoua and World Music Festival, featuring masters of Gnaoua – an ancient, spiritual, and rhythmic African Islamic music tradition – alongside international world music stars. It opens with a colorful parade, and concerts at the main stages are free and crowded. To get up close to the action, opt for a one-day (from Dh150) or three-day (Dh600) pass. Tickets for more intimate venues are around Dh250.
For classical music lovers, Dar Souiri – home to the Essaouira-Mogador Association – is one of three venues hosting the annual Printemps Musical des Alizés in April. Experience concerts featuring the Moroccan Philharmonic Orchestra, as well as virtuosos and young musical talents from around the globe. If you miss the festivals, Dar Souiri holds regular concerts (around Dh100) and free art exhibitions; check their noticeboard for details.
Gallery hopping is a free and enriching experience: start at the city’s oldest art space, Galerie D’Art Damgaard, which showcases the vibrant naïve style of the biggest names in the Essaouira art world, including Mohamed Tabel and Ali Maimoune. Other private galleries include Espace Othello, Galerie du Sud (Rue Attarine), and L’Atelier des Arts Empreinte (28 Rue Abou Al Mouhajer), which serves as a framing workshop and exhibition space for local artists.
Boundless Beaches
A stroll along Essaouira’s enormous sweep of golden sand is a must. The beach showcases an entertaining mix of promenading families, sunbathing tourists, barefoot football matches, and camels plodding along the surf.
The omnipresent gusts of wind, known locally as alizee, create ideal conditions for kitesurfing and windsurfing. Explora offers lessons for all levels from €55 for two hours, or you can just hire the gear.
Dune jumping on a quad bike is an exhilarating splurge, and Palma Quad runs a two-hour tour around the stunning dunes of Cap Sim, approximately a 30-minute drive from Essaouira, from Dh700 for two sharing, including transfers.
For a feet-in-the-sand sundowner, head to Océan Vagabond, where the two-for-one happy hour starts at 7pm.
Cheap Eats
There’s no shortage of street eats in Essaouira’s medina. Wooden carts are piled high with seasonal fruits, such as strawberries, nectarines, or prickly pears (ask the vendor to peel them for you). Khoobz, the ubiquitous flatbread, goes on sale twice a day (Dh5). You can also find Moroccan-style pancakes, including msemen (square and flaky) and baghrir (round and spongy). Wash it all down with freshly squeezed sugarcane juice, which cures all ills for just Dh5.
For a delicious and economical lunch, adopt the local way and pack your own food. Purchase your fish – sardines are the quintessential Essaouira dish, costing around Dh10 for 10 – at the fish souq in the medina. Take them to the no-name café in the far-left corner of the Marché aux Grains – look for the parasol-shaded yellow tables – where they’ll grill them for you for Dh5. Spending another Dh5 will get you bread and a simple salad.
For a fancier yet still budget-friendly alfresco fish lunch, head to the grillades, the line of blue-and-white-clad wooden shacks between the port and Pl Moulay Hassan, where you can choose from the catch of the day, from snapper to squid. At Breton du Sud (grillade #33), fish, bread, salad, and a drink will set you back about Dh50.
To satisfy your sweet tooth, visit Pâtisserie Driss, which has been serving up delicious pastries since 1928. Gelateria Dolcefreddo on Pl Moulay Hassan is also a great spot to combine coffee, ice cream, and people watching. Don’t miss the Café Dolcefreddo – a scoop of vanilla and an espresso will cost Dh25.
As they say, the best Moroccan food is served at home, and dinner at the quaint candlelit Restaurant les Alizes Mogador is a near-perfect alternative. Run by a friendly Moroccan couple, this restaurant offers a three-course traditional menu for Dh129 or a main course for Dh75. If you’re tired of tajine, Silvestro (70 rue Laalouj) serves wood-oven pizzas and pasta dishes starting at Dh45.
Budget-Friendly Beds
The Moroccan-Australian owners of Riad Dar Afram have maintained the classic Moroccan style of this laidback riad, featuring painted wooden ceilings, stained-glass windows, and colorful kilims. The six ensuite rooms are spacious enough to accommodate extra beds, while the patio has become a convivial lounge popular with musicians. Prices start at €27, including breakfast.
The dazzlingly white, blue-shuttered Riad du Figuier has been transformed into a relaxed B&B, situated around a lovely courtyard garden with orange trees and a tinkling fountain. The five white-walled rooms feature tiled floors, beamed ceilings, and splashes of color from carpets and local art. Breakfast – including the riad’s own fig jam – is served on the roof terrace or in the sunflower-yellow lounge. Doubles start at €45, including breakfast.
If you prefer your own space, the two-bedroom Dar Emma is perfect. This tall, skinny house spans four floors and features an artful mix of traditional Moroccan decor, vintage finds, and contemporary touches. It offers a roof terrace for sunny days and a log fire for chilly evenings. The expat British owner, Emma, will share her local knowledge, from souq shopping to the best dining spots and day trips. It sleeps up to four for £100 per night.
