Near the southern edge of the vast Atacama Desert, mountain rivers wind their way through a sun-baked landscape of vine-covered hillsides and serene villages, with Andean peaks looming on the distant horizon. This is the Elqui Valley, famed for its rain-free climate (over 320 days of sunshine) and remarkably clear skies.
Given its remote location, high elevation, and reliably cloud-free nights, the valley is one of the best places on earth for stargazing. Major observatories dot the desert landscape, and back in 2015, the entire valley (encompassing more than 90,000 acres) was declared the world’s first International Dark Sky Sanctuary during the General Assembly of the IAU (International Astronomical Union).
Astronomical Highlights
Astronomers have long known about this unique place nestled between the Andes and the Pacific Ocean, just over 500 km north of Santiago; it’s home to four major astronomical research bases. In recent years, astro-tourists have also discovered its charms, and there are a growing number of ways to experience those magnificent star-filled night skies. The big date many stargazers have penciled on their calendars is July 2, 2019, when a total solar eclipse will pass over the western skies, making it one of the best places in the world to witness this event.
Observatory Central
The small village of Vicuña makes an ideal base for exploring the valley. Near here, several observatories offer guided viewings of the night sky. The Observatorio Cerro Mamalluca, some 9 km northeast of Vicuña, is among the best known, offering big-group bilingual tours and the chance to peer through 30 cm (12-inch) telescopes at the moon, planets like Jupiter and Saturn, and various constellations. A brief introduction provides a crash course in astronomy, followed by celestial viewings led by knowledgeable guides.
The Observatorio del Pangue is situated around 17 km south of Vicuña in an area with complete absence of light pollution. The only human-made structures in view are the nearby scientific observatories of SOAR, Gemini, and Tololo. Enthusiastic astronomers lead small-group tours (maximum of ten people) on two-hour viewings, exploring distant galaxies, nebulae, star clusters, and our own nearby planets through the T400, a computerized 16-inch (40 cm) telescope.
Surrounded by vineyards just outside of Vicuña, Alfa Aldea is run by eloquent astronomers who lead small-group sessions under the starry skies. Visits start with a brief introduction to observable phenomena, followed by guided viewing in the open-air amphitheater with laser pointers highlighting near and distant stars and planets. Visitors also have the opportunity to look through Alfa Aldea’s scientific-grade telescopes, all while enjoying a welcome drink and steaming cups of vegetable soup to cut the evening chill.
Star-Powered Towns
Around 40 km southeast of Vicuña, the tiny village of Pisco Elqui is another compelling destination for stargazers. Charming B&Bs with lush gardens and spacious terraces provide perfect spots for watching the sunset, followed by a quickly darkening sky illuminated with stars. Although there are no observatories in the area, operators like Turismo Dagaz lead astrotours to lovely mountainous areas outside the village.
While you’re in the area, you can also enjoy a unique culinary experience at restaurants in Villaseca that utilize solar ovens to cook their food. Around 5 km southeast of Vicuña, several family-run establishments harness the sun’s rays in custom-built outdoor ovens to bake bread, roast meats, and create delightful desserts like leche asada (flan), with Delicias Del Sol being among the best.
Planning Your Visit
There are several important considerations prior to embarking on your journey to the Elqui Valley. It is advisable to check the lunar calendar for your proposed travel dates. When the moon is in its fullest phase (around four days before and after), strong moonlight significantly diminishes the visibility of the night sky, making it less than ideal for telescope viewing. Moreover, bring warm clothing, as desert nights can be unexpectedly chilly.
If traveling with children, please verify minimum age requirements at your chosen observatory, as some may restrict visitors under the age of 16. Additionally, proactive communication is essential; many facilities close during winter (June to August)—though 2019 will be an exception due to the solar eclipse—and others may be booked for private events. To ensure a smooth experience, reach out well in advance of your departure. Many of the locations offer transport options to their facilities, which is a wise investment even if you have a rental vehicle, as navigating these narrow, remote mountain roads in the dark can be hazardous.
