The department of La Libertad is home to a number of beaches and some of the best waves you’ll ever catch.
A world away from the congested streets and city noises of San Salvador, you’ll find the beaches of La Libertad, dotted with surfers taking a break from their day-to-day lives to catch a wave or two. Moreover, it’s just a 45-minute drive south of El Salvador’s capital city, where you’d be hard-pressed to find many similarities between the two areas.
In La Libertad, the beat of the day slows down to a glacial pace. Located on the country’s southern shore, the department extends from the outskirts of San Salvador down to the Pacific Ocean. The beaches lining the 25 or so miles of shoreline have been attracting surfers for generations, mainly those from Central America. However, in recent years, surfers from around the globe have been coming to the region to experience its legendary surfing. It’s a welcome change, as El Salvador has struggled to attract international visitors, but things are changing, and the world is taking note.
“You’ll find some of the best surfing in the world here in El Salvador,” said Porfirio Miranda, a professional surfer who grew up in La Libertad. “We have warm water, several different point breaks along the coast, and everything is right here.”
However, the country’s reputation for violence kept most tourists from visiting El Salvador. They instead frequented surrounding countries like Costa Rica, Guatemala, and Panama, where surfing is equally regarded as some of the best in the Western Hemisphere and conditions have been statistically safer.
“Because of the negative publicity we get around violence, people have been reluctant to come,” Miranda explained. “But that’s changing.”
El Salvador, roughly the geographic size of New Jersey with a population smaller than that of New York City, has historically never been considered much of a tourist destination. Gang violence and poverty are common themes in international media coverage, with little else making headlines. The Civil War that crippled the nation from 1979 to 1992 had a long-lasting impact, much of which is still felt today. However, over the past decade, poverty levels have steadily decreased, according to the World Bank. Crime has also drastically declined, due in part to the government’s efforts to reduce gang violence. Once declared the most dangerous country in the world outside of a war zone, El Salvador hit an all-time low in homicides in 2020, dropping 62.5 percent from the previous year.
At the same time, tourism has gradually increased, peaking in 2019 with over 2.6 million tourists coming to the country. Surfing has become the primary draw for visitors to El Salvador.
“We’re different from other surfing areas like Guatemala and Costa Rica because the beaches are really concentrated here,” Miranda noted. “And in Peru, you have to wear a wetsuit in the water because it’s so cold, but here the water is consistently warm.”
Miranda refers to the close proximity of the beaches, making it easy for surfers to bounce from one to another. Within less than a 20-minute drive, you’ll find El Zonte, El Tunco, La Punta break, El Sunzal, and El Majahual, among others. Consequently, with local tourism so focused on the water, it’s no surprise that some of the world’s best surfers come from this area.
Bryan Pérez, 21, is recognized as the country’s top surfer. He began competing professionally at 14 and has traveled internationally to participate in competitions. Furthermore, he is planning to compete in the upcoming Olympics, the first time surfing will be included in the games to represent El Salvador. While he has favorite beaches around the world, he still believes the surf in La Libertad is unparalleled.
“I want to put El Salvador on the map because it has great surfing and great beaches,” Pérez emphasized. “The point breaks here aren’t like anything else you’ll find.”
With miles of beaches shaped to create a regular current of surfable waves and little other economic generators in the area, aside from sugarcane fields, it’s no surprise why the hospitality industry has taken root. However, it is only in recent years that the region’s success has really kicked off.
The small towns surrounding the beaches in La Libertad have seen significant investment in recent years, mostly focused on its surf scene. A number of mid-range to luxury hotels have emerged right by the water, including Casa De Mar and Palo Verde Hotel, a boutique property in El Zonte that emphasizes sustainability. A new highway was constructed that connects San Salvador to the coast, improving access for visitors to reach the beaches quickly.
In 2017, Puro Surf, a hotel and performance academy that works with novice and professional surfers on their technique, opened its doors at El Zonte. The sprawling complex overlooks the beaches where you’ll often see a small gathering of surfers waiting to catch their next wave, including Pérez. His manager, Marcelo Castellanos, also happens to be the owner of the academy.
When I arrived in El Salvador to write this story, it wasn’t my first experience in the country. I had visited in 2009 and spent a summer traveling around San Salvador and the surrounding towns but never made my way to the coast. After hearing about the growing tourism industry centered around surfing, I knew I wanted to return. Approximately 10 years later, I headed back to explore the surfing community and the towns along the southern shore.
Before I arrived, I had arranged interviews with a number of individuals in the surfing community, including several professionals who grew up locally. Among them was Katherine Diaz, a then-19-year-old professional surfer, regarded as the best female surfer in the country—unapologetically proud of her hometown.
“I grew up here and I learned to surf here,” Diaz stated. “It’s a really special place that more people should know about. We have so many great beaches and it’s not as crowded as other surfing areas. It’s just really unique.”
Diaz was a significant supporter of the local surf scene, frequently touring globally and advocating for El Salvador. She competed against some of the best surfers worldwide and was a fixture in the community, aspiring to compete in the upcoming Olympics.
This past March, while training for the ISA World Surfing Games—a qualifier for the Tokyo Olympics—Diaz tragically passed away at the age of 22 after being struck by lightning while surfing at El Tunco beach. Her untimely death shocked the community.
Inspired by Diaz’s dedication, friends and fellow surfers continue to carry the torch, celebrating La Libertad’s uniqueness. Due to ongoing investments in the area, along with decreasing violence, La Libertad is poised to gain international attention within the surfing community.
“I think that everyone should come to El Salvador,” Diaz once said. “Not just for the surfing, but because the people are so friendly. However, I still believe El Salvador has the best surfing in the world.”
