Set atop a pretty promontory that extends into the Adriatic Sea, Zadar has a compact and attractive old town of golden-hued churches and Roman ruins that sits against a stirring backdrop of dramatic limestone mountains and distant scattered islands.
Less touristy than the other main Dalmatian coast hubs of Dubrovnik and Split, Zadar is a vibrant city with lively nightlife and an exciting culinary scene. The city also serves as a launchpad for excursions to remote offshore islands and beautiful national parks.
The stark, rugged limestone so emblematic of the northern Dalmatian coast finds perfection in the Kornati Islands. Cliffs and coves, grottoes and reefs—all are features of a day-long boat excursion that begins and ends in Zadar and explores another world in between. The islands, uninhabited, rise in jagged ramparts and improbable formations that watch over turquoise seas. En route, Telašćica Bay is like the Kornatis in miniature—eerie, soulful, and impossible to take your eyes off.
Away to Zadar’s north, Pag Island is a day trip custom-made for foodies. The island’s distinctive paški sir (Pag cheese) is a national, much-awarded culinary icon, its salty, sharp taste derived from the salty herbs the island’s 35,000 free-range sheep graze on. This cheese is a favorite at Croatian weddings, where it’s served with pršut and Croatian wine. You’ll find ample opportunities to taste paški sir in Pag’s restaurants, but the quiet little village of Kolan is the island’s cheese capital. Sirana Gligora runs excellent tours and tastings and has a fabulous cheese shop, while Konoba Figurica does a fabulous cheese platter.
Experience July’s Full Moon Festival
On the night of the full moon in July, there is magic in Zadar’s air. As part of a festival known locally as Noć Punog Miseca, torches, candles, and lanterns light the waterfront as they must have done in centuries past, while similarly lit boats, bobbing on the water, serve up local delicacies and fresh seafood in the manner of a floating market. It’s a splendid night on which to visit the city.