Toyosu Market: A Guide to Tokyo’s Seafood Hub

After more than 80 years at Tsukiji, Tokyo’s wholesale market—famous for its tuna auction, exotic fish, and breakfast sushi—moved to a new, purpose-built location in Toyosu in 2018. While it may not perfectly replicate the iconic former site, it boasts advantages such as shorter queues and bookable slots for the auction. Here’s what to expect and how to maximize your experience.

Seeing the Tuna Auction

The tuna auction is an iconic spectacle at the wholesale market, held in the early morning. During this time, the naka-oroshi (intermediate wholesalers) aggressively bid on extravagant bluefin tuna amidst a cacophony of shouts, hand gestures, and bells. This auction represents an incredible gamble; the most sought-after fish contain the highest fat content, while the naka-oroshi can only inspect a small cross-section of the tail before placing their bids.

Visitors can observe this auction from a glass-walled corridor above the market floor. At Tsukiji, 120 guests were permitted access daily, whereas at Toyosu, no one enters the floor directly. Instead, 120 visitors can access a partially sealed platform for a closer view while still being limited to taking photos through glass. As the process is managed by lottery, there’s no need to queue for hours. Starting at 5:30 am, groups of 30 will receive 10 minutes apiece at the glass barrier, easing the worry of missing out.

The tuna auction occurs in the Fish Wholesale Market in block 7. Follow signs for the Fish Wholesale Market Observation Gallery. At 5 am, as the market opens to visitors, you can watch the naka-oroshi sharing their expertise with the tuna as they evaluate them (they begin this process around 4 am). Auctions generally kick off around 5 am and conclude by 6 am or 6:30 am; therefore, arriving early is ideal.

Importantly, Japan is the largest global consumer of bluefin tuna, a prized fish typically enjoyed as sushi. However, its increasing demand has resulted in declining populations; the World Wildlife Foundation categorizes Atlantic, Pacific, and Southern bluefin tuna as endangered. International regulatory bodies have established fishing quotas to promote sustainable practices, yet illegal fishing persists. Most tuna sold at Toyosu is wild-caught and flash-frozen, although fresh and some farm-raised fish can also be found.

Fruit & Vegetable Market

Guests can also visit the Fruit & Vegetable Market located in block 6. This market shares a building with the wholesale and intermediate wholesale markets, visible from a similar glass corridor on the second floor. Continuing to the end will guide you to the wholesale market, where somewhat less intense auctions for fruits and vegetables occur from 6:30 am, lasting roughly an hour. Here, no special access is required.

Fish Intermediate Wholesale Market

This area, comprising several hundred stalls in block 5, is where the naka-oroshi sell their prized catches to chefs and fishmongers. At Tsukiji, this bustling area brimming with sea life showcased an impressive variety of ice-covered creatures for professional shoppers. However, at Toyosu, visitor access extends only to the observation gallery, which limits visibility. While this is a downside for travelers, it represents an advantage for market workers, who appreciate unobstructed operations. This section remains active until around 10 am.

Eating at the Market

The tradition of savoring sushi following a tour of the market is alive and well at Toyosu. Several restaurants from Tsukiji, originally catering to market workers but later becoming popular gourmet spots, have relocated to Toyosu. Among these are Sushi Dai, a reputed choice, and Daiwa Sushi. Both, particularly Sushi Dai, were known for long wait times; however, thus far, queues seem more manageable at the new market.

Similar to everything at Toyosu, the dining establishments provide a fresh atmosphere and are considerably spacious and well-lit. The vibe resembles that of a ‘mall food court’ rather than a local market, but the cuisine remains top-notch, crafted from ingredients sourced directly from the market stalls. Additionally, visitors can find shops that sell various products beyond sushi, such as Mosuke Dango, a traditional sweets shop that has thrived despite market relocations, dating back to the pre-Tsukiji era in Nihombashi.

Navigating the Market

The blocks of Toyosu Market connect via outdoor promenades leading to the nearest train station, Shijō-mae (on the Yurikamome line). Everything is well signposted in English, making navigation straightforward. The market spans quite an area, so if your plans include seeing many attractions, anticipate walking a fair distance. Fortunately, the venue is flat and predominantly accessible, with an elevator available for those who require assistance to reach the tuna auction viewing platform.

There are two main restaurant clusters: one in block 7, near the Fish Wholesale Market entrance, and one in block 5, adjacent to the Fish Intermediate Wholesale Market. The latter, which houses Sushi Dai, provides opportunities to encounter sushi chefs and professional buyers (look for their characteristic rubber boots and wicker baskets).

On the 4th floor of block 5, a selection of shops caters to the public, offering dry goods such as katsuo-bushi (dried bonito flakes, essential for broth preparation) and various kitchen supplies.

Top Tips

• Toyosu Market is located on Toyosu, an artificial island in Tokyo Bay, near Odaiba. It is closed on Sundays and some Wednesdays, plus occasionally on other days; therefore, check the schedule before making plans. Additional details about the tuna auction lottery are posted there as well.

• The market operates from 5 am to 5 pm, but it is advisable to arrive early in the morning when activity is at its peak. Most restaurants open from 5 am until around 1 pm on market days. Aim to attend the tuna auction first (if you secure a slot), followed by exploring the Fish Intermediate Wholesale Market before enjoying breakfast in one of the market’s food courts.

• Reaching the market in time for the tuna auction via public transport can be challenging. The earliest Yurikamome line train from Toyosu (two stops from the market) departs at 5:15 am, requiring timely arrival at Toyosu. Accommodations are limited here, making it practical to stay around Ginza and take a taxi to the market (costing around ¥1500 to ¥2000, roughly a 15-minute ride).

• Avoid the Yurikamome line from Shimbashi; although it seems convenient, the route winds significantly, taking nearly 30 minutes.

• The market maintains a chilly 10.5°C (50.9°F), so dress warmly to enjoy the tuna auction.