Explore Hangzhou: The Heart of Longjing Tea Production

One of China’s most significant tourist cities, Hangzhou, located in the eastern province of Zhejiang, is famous for its stunning natural beauty and iconic Chinese scenery.

While most travelers to Hangzhou flock to the renowned West Lake, the abundance of tourists can sometimes be overwhelming. Individuals seeking a tranquil escape amidst verdant landscapes need not venture far. The rolling hills to the west of West Lake harbor the city’s other notable treasure—longjing green tea plantations. Within these hills lie secluded hiking trails, hidden caves, and charming family-run tea shops, providing the perfect counterbalance to Hangzhou’s busier attractions.

Tea Centre of China

Hangzhou has been a crucial hub for tea production in China for over 1,000 years. The region’s fertile soil, pristine water, and favorable climate combine to produce the famous longjing (龙井, lóngjǐng) or dragon well green tea. Its name likely derives from the local village of the same name, which may have been inspired by a well whose waters danced like a dragon after rain.

Emperor Qianlong (1735–1796) of the Qing dynasty played a significant role in popularizing longjing tea across China and beyond. Legend has it that during a visit to the area’s tea plantations, he became so intrigued by the tea-harvesting process that he decided to participate. In a rush to return home after learning of his mother’s illness, he stowed the picked leaves in his robe sleeve. Once he reached Beijing, his mother smelled the fragrant leaves and requested tea made from them. Upon consuming the brew, she made a miraculous recovery, prompting the emperor to declare longjing tea a remedy for ailments, significantly boosting its popularity nationwide.

The definitive starting point for exploring longjing tea in Hangzhou is the China National Tea Museum. The original branch is closest to the city, situated on the edge of the tea plantation area and spans several hectares dedicated to tea cultivation and tasting. The newer Longjing Scenic Area branch is further up Longjing Lu and is nested within denser tea fields. At both museums, visitors can sample various teas and discover the significance of this humble plant worldwide.

How Longjing Tea is Made

Recognized as one of the finest teas in China, longjing’s popularity is reflected in its price. The first harvest, occurring in March and April, can command prices exceeding ¥6000 (about US$875) per kilogram, with top-quality varieties being even pricier.

The harvest season extends from late March through the summer, during which local workers, often seen wearing straw hats, hand-pick leaves. You will frequently encounter baskets of freshly harvested leaves sun-drying across the area.

Post-harvest, the leaves undergo an initial drying phase before being stir-fried in a wok until they become brittle. This process imparts the characteristic flat shape to the leaves, yielding a yellow-green tea with a robust flavor complemented by a mild, lingering bitterness.

Sampling Longjing in Hangzhou

Longjing tea is typically served in two ways in Hangzhou. The most commonplace and informal method involves serving tea leaves in a large glass mug or cup, followed by pouring hot water directly over them. Consumers drink from the glass, continuously refilling it with boiled water from an insulated flask. This practice likely originated about a century ago when glass was a luxury item, symbolizing high socioeconomic status. Although times have changed, the custom remains.

This method of consumption produces a strong initial brew. As such, it is crucial to regularly refill the glass with fresh water to mellow the flavor. Additionally, this process requires some patience, as one must wait for the leaves to settle and water to cool adequately; however, accidentally ingesting a tea leaf is nothing to fret about. Use this waiting period to enjoy the stunning views from the balconies of family-run tea shops in Wengjiashan Village—one of the several villages scattered across the tea plantation area where you can savor this legendary beverage.

A more sophisticated experience can be found during a traditional tea ceremony at either branch of the China National Tea Museum or at various upscale teahouses, such as Ming Jia Ju Teahouse. Usually led by an experienced tea master, this formal process involves appreciating the tea leaves and performing intricate steps in warming the teapot and steeping the leaves. Although it is a lengthy ritual, by the time you sip the tea, you’ll feel confident that you are truly experiencing longjing’s exquisite flavor.

For a unique perspective on longjing tea, consider visiting Lingyin Temple, where visitors can gain insight into ‘zen’ tea culture. This aspect of tea refers to the artisanal crafting of tea exclusively by monks, emphasizing a highly ritualized process of harvesting, preparing, and enjoyably serving the tea to assist their spiritual journey. Annually, as the harvest season approaches, the temple hosts the Cloud Forest Zen Tea Performance, promoting this distinct monastic tradition.

Longjing tea isn’t just for drinking; many dishes in Hangzhou incorporate tea leaves for added flavor. A popular dish is longjing stir-fried prawns (lóngjǐng xiā rén, 龙井虾仁), which blends succulent river prawns with fresh tea leaves’ crunchiness. You can savor this dish and other traditional Hangzhou cuisine while enjoying a glass of tea at Maocao Wu, a restaurant located right by the plantations.

Exploring Tea Country on Foot

When sitting and sipping become too sedentary, the picturesque tea plantations present wonderful opportunities for hiking. Various trails connect from both Wengjiashan Village and Dragon Well Tea Village, two of the larger villages in the plantation area.

These paths bring you close to the tea bushes and are often deserted, primarily frequented by tea pickers during harvest. However, travelers should prepare for the hot and humid weather from summer through autumn, particularly with the presence of mosquitoes—packing repellent is advisable for outdoor activities.

A particularly pleasant and relatively easy trail begins at Santai Shan Lu, just west of West Lake. This path winds through forests adorned with local dignitaries’ tombs. After a bit of a climb, the trail leads to the Santai Pavilion, a location frequently depicted in West Lake paintings. From here, the trail diverges north toward Longjing Lu or west toward Southern Peak, where a charming pavilion awaits atop a forested hill. The descent offers splendid views of vast tea plantations before culminating at Yanxia Cave, a naturally occurring limestone cavern featuring ancient Buddhist statues dating back to the Five Dynasties (907-960) and the Song Dynasty (960-1027). After exploring, it’s an easy stroll back to Wengjiasha Village—perfect for grabbing another cup of tea!