Experience Budapest’s Vibrant Ruin Pubs
Budapest’s seventh district, once home to a flourishing Jewish community that endured hardships after WWII, has transformed into one of the best bar-hopping neighborhoods on the bustling Pest side of the Danube.
This renaissance has been driven by a series of so-called ‘ruin pubs’ (romkocsma in Hungarian) that have opened in recent years along the back streets behind the Great Synagogue.
Berlin Squat with Magyar Flair
Each ruin pub is unique; however, they all share certain characteristics. Typically, they occupy abandoned buildings, often with a vacant lot nearby featuring picnic tables and beer taps. When you add a dash of thrift-shop decor along with a hipster vibe, the result is reminiscent of a laid-back Berlin squat paired with a quaint Munich beer hall.
The best ruin pubs offer live music or DJs on weekends, film nights, and art exhibitions. Some even provide light meals and hostel accommodations, and host farmers’ markets or creative events during the day. Consequently, these locations are ideal for unwinding on a warm summer night after an adventurous day of sightseeing.
Ruin Pubs to the Rescue
The emergence of ruin pubs couldn’t have come at a better time for Budapest VII. Despite being a stone’s throw from Andrássy út, the city’s most upscale boulevard, it endured neglect and poverty that began during the war, leading to the deportation of countless Jewish residents. This struggle continued into the 1960s, ’70s, and ’80s, influenced by the forced relocation of the Roma community into the abandoned houses.
Now, bustling streets such as Király utca and Dob utca are adorned with trendy coffee houses and wine bars, standing alongside remnants of Jewish culture—small, family-owned restaurants and bakeries that have managed to survive through it all.
Options for a ‘Ruinous’ Night
Budapest’s main ruin pubs are all within a short walking distance of one another, making them easy to experience in a single night of methodical drinking. Each pub possesses its own unique flair, so finding one that matches your mood is recommended.
No discussion about ruin pubs would be complete without mentioning the iconic Szimpla Kert. As the first ruin pub, it remains one of the best and most vibrant. With several rooms, including a spacious open-air garden, it can accommodate hundreds of patrons, making it an excellent choice for groups. In addition to a wide selection of beers, there are wines, cocktails, and light bites available. Don’t miss the Sunday morning farmers’ market for a unique experience.
Fogas ház, which opened its doors in 2010, aims to transcend the typical ruin pub experience by serving as a party complex. It comprises different areas: Fogas kert, an open-air bar under a circus tent; Liebling, a cozy café-bar serving food with a summer terrace; and Lärm, one of Budapest’s premier techno clubs equipped with state-of-the-art sound gear.
Budapest also boasts the popular ruin bar Instant, originally situated in Nagymező utca in the VI District. It has now moved into Fogas ház, taking over part of the space. The two establishments maintain their unique identities, symbolized by Instant’s iconic owl statue and Fogas’ giant lips adorning their rooftop.
While bar hopping in this lively area, you’ll discover excellent dining options. One highlight is Kőleves (the ‘Stone Soup’ restaurant), where the eclectic menu merges traditional Hungarian dishes—such as catfish stew with noodles—with Jewish delicacies like matzo ball soup and roast goose, as well as international dishes like pasta and couscous. Additionally, a variety of vegetarian options is available. Reservations are essential, particularly on weekends.
For a more casual dining experience, visit the nearby street food court, Street Food Karavan, adjacent to Szimpla Kert. Here, you’ll find diverse choices ranging from sausages and fried cheese to lángos (a savory fried pastry topped with sour cream and cheese) and vegan burgers. Lastly, if you desire to experience the next generation of ruin bars, consider dining at Mazel Tov, a shabby-chic bar alongside Fogas and Instant serving exceptional Middle Eastern cuisine.
