Cycling Adventures in Tuscany: Explore the Grosseto Province

A hardened place of rocky outcrops, marshes, and undulating hills that abut a dramatic coastline of cliffs and long windswept beaches, the Province of Grosseto is far from most people’s vision of the quaint Tuscan countryside. However, for cycling enthusiasts, it is a landscape of plenty.

Little-trafficked roads and trails snake through its varied terrain, offering head-turning views, access to ancient sites, and challenging climbs to historic hilltop towns. These towns’ beauty will vanquish any remaining breath. Moreover, your adventures will only open your appetite, allowing you to relish the region’s famous cuisine. This is perhaps why so many choose Tuscany for active holidays.

The weather in the area makes cycling a very pleasant possibility from early March to late October. There are almost two dozen set cycle routes through the region; however, here are a couple of our favorites.

Città del Tufo: Sorano, Sovana & Pitigliano

This challenging 49 km loop, with some 830 m of elevation changes, winds its way through Città del Tufo and its three historic hilltop villages of Sorano, Sovana, and Pitigliano. Along the way, it takes in hot springs, ancient sunken roads, and plenty of stunning vistas.

The route starts some 3 km south of Sorano at a thermal spring that has attracted visitors since the Middle Ages. As you head north, the immediate area around Sorano offers incredible views of the town and its steep fortifications. One of the best views can be found at the back of the grounds of the Chiesa di San Rocco (an old Catholic church), which is a slight detour west of town along the SP22. After absorbing the beauty of Sorano itself, and perhaps downing your first espresso of the day, hop back on the bike and pedal north towards Montorio to see its castle, originally constructed in the 12th-century by the Aldobrandeschi noble family. From there, aim your handlebars south to cycle through the diminutive and charming villages of Castell’Ottieri, Elmo, and Grotte Cavalieri, where you’ll catch panoramic vistas of the valley.

Shortly after joining the SP22 and pedaling east towards Sovana, it’s worth stopping to explore one of the region’s archaeological treasures: Parco Archeologico Città del Tufo. Here, you can cycle through several steep vie cave (sunken roads) that were hewn from the tufo rock in ancient times. These ancient paths may have connected Etruscan necropolises or served as corridors for safely moving livestock and people during tumultuous times. Additionally, Tomba Ildebranda, a 2nd or 3rd-century BC tomb, is carved into the rock and is considered one of the most essential monuments in the region.

From the archaeological park, it’s a short climb to the idyllic village of Sovana, featuring its herringbone-bricked main street dating back to Roman times. Stop for a bite to eat and to check out the pair of simplistic Romanesque churches: Duomo and Santa Maria Maggiore. Descend east from here before turning south onto the SP46. The road continues winding until you approach the most stunning village of the day – Pitigliano.

Early sightings of Pitigliano perched atop a towering volcanic outcrop are both inspiring and daunting; however, the overwhelming need to explore keeps the pedals turning. Once inside town, you’re treated to an array of historic architecture: a stunning 16th-century aqueduct with arches that dance along the ramparts; sinuously curved staircases mysteriously climbing; well-preserved town gates; and a Jewish museum complete with an impressive synagogue dating back to 1598. The influence of the once considerable Jewish population is also visible in the local cuisine.

Leaving Pitigliano is a slow process, primarily due to the need to stop and take photographs of it from the opposite side of the gorge. It’s worth making the climb south along the SR74 to the first switchback, where the view is absolutely breathtaking. From here, you can decide to either head north back towards your starting point or return to Pitigliano for a meal and a well-deserved night’s rest.

The Costa d’Argento: Orbetello & Capalbio

This 69 km coastal loop features stunning scenery, serene forests, and heart-pumping climbs to the splendid hilltop village of Capalbio. Although 20 km longer than the Città del Tufo itinerary, the Costa d’Argento is less demanding due to fewer hills.

Starting at Orbetello’s train station, this route offers easy access. Located on a narrow isthmus jutting into the lagoon, the town itself is laid-back and low-key. Ride west along the town’s northern shore before crossing onto the rocky peninsula of Monte Argentario. The standard route takes you back across the southern side of the lagoon, but taking a detour up the western side of Forte Stella is highly recommended before looping back and descending along the breathtaking coastal road overlooking the island of L’Isolotto down to the colourful harbour of Porto Ercole.

History calls, leading you up to the summit of the nearby Ansedonia hillock – the site of an archaeological park protecting the ruins of the Roman city of Cosa. After exploring the site and its petite museum with sweeping views over the lagoon and coast, descend on your bike northwards.

By now, you’ll see the lofty village of Capalbio beckoning ahead, and it’s your time to make the ascent. The first substantial climb of the day awaits, and after a flat stretch along SP Pedemontana, you’ll head up the switchbacks of SP Capalbio. There are a couple of extremely steep sections once inside the village walls, but keep pushing until you reach the courtyard with steps to the top of the ramparts. Take your time catching your breath at the top, as you’ll enjoy vistas stretching over the green fields to the distant Costa d’Argento.

After a well-earned meal in Capalbio, roll east towards Pescia Fiorentina, then turn south for the coast. At Chiarone Scalo, you’ll find a seemingly endless stretch of beach, perfect for losing your shoes and dipping your feet in the sea. It’s now a relatively flat route back to Orbetello via the coastal road.

Explore the stunning cycling routes in Tuscany’s Grosseto province, and enjoy a cycling journey that offers breathtaking views, rich history, and delicious cuisine.