The region of Istria offers some of Croatia’s best foodie experiences, from dining on fresh seafood and hunting for truffles to tasting top-quality extra virgin olive oil, wines, and spirits.
At the northern end of Croatia’s coastline, the Istrian peninsula is often divided into two distinct regions: Blue Istria, featuring the sparkling coast, and Green Istria, known for its lush interior.
With its rolling hills swathed in vineyards and olive groves and topped by medieval hill towns, it’s not surprising that Istria is often compared with Tuscany. The cuisine has a distinctly Italian flavor too, featuring fresh handmade pasta and air-cured pršut ham, focusing on high-quality seasonal ingredients.
Truffle Hunting as a Way of Life
Višnja Prodan’s family has been hunting truffles for three generations. She trains her dogs from a young age to sniff out the pungent fungi as they ripen underground. The family owns 25,000 square meters of land in the hills near Buzet, rich with oak, beech, and hazel trees that nurture truffles in their root systems. For the Prodans, no dish is complete without truffles, which they sprinkle liberally on all their meals.
Truffles were initially discovered in Istria by accident as farmers unearthed their vegetables, with locals referring to them as ‘smelly potatoes’ until Italians began purchasing them at low prices. Both black and the more precious white truffles are present here, with Istria being the only location outside of Italy known for white truffles. The Istrian truffle scene surged in 1999 when Giancarlo Zigante and his dog unearthed a 1.3kg white truffle, the largest ever found at that time.
Visitors can join Višnja and her dogs, Stiv and Brum (named after the truffle varieties Tuber aestivum and Tuber brumale), in the woods as they search eagerly for truffles. When the dogs detect a truffle, they scratch the ground to indicate its location, earning a treat for their efforts. Black truffles can be hunted year-round; however, for those wishing to hunt and taste white truffles, the best time to visit is between October and December.
If, like the Prodans, you adore truffles, a visit to Restaurant Zigante is essential. This gastronomic establishment features just six truffle-centric dishes daily, each paired with appropriate wines. Every course includes fresh truffles, culminating in truffle ice cream for dessert, with the only decision being how many courses to savor.
The World’s Finest Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Istrian olive oil has been valued since Roman times—numerous Roman olive presses found in Barbariga highlight its long-standing tradition, with amphoras exported from Fažana discovered across the Roman Empire. Recently, Istria has been honored multiple times by the Flos Olei competition as the region boasting the most high-quality extra virgin olive oil producers globally.
As olives ripen, the oil content increases while quality can decline. About 20 years ago, Istrian pioneers like Ipša shifted to producing high-quality extra virgin olive oil by harvesting olives earlier. After picking, olives are quickly ground into paste before pressing for oil extraction, utilizing inert gases to prevent oxidation.
At Ipša, located in the hills north of Motovun, organic production shines with distinct olive varieties. Their oils are largely single-variety: Istarska bjelica is spicy with low oil yield; frantoio offers an herbal taste; while leccino is notably more bitter. In Vodnjan at Chiavalon, most oils are balanced blends suited for specific dishes.
Many Istrian olive oil producers offer tastings, allowing guests to learn how to appreciate the various notes and qualities. Consider visiting the House of Istrian Olive Oil in Pula to sample oils from numerous producers, complete with an olive oil museum and shop featuring products from over 30 top Istrian producers. When selecting olive oil, opt for dark-colored bottles to prevent spoilage from light exposure. Proper storage can extend shelf life, making it vital to consume opened bottles within four months.
Fish and Seafood Plucked Fresh from the Adriatic
The Istrian peninsula, surrounded by the Adriatic Sea, boasts over 400 fish species. The main fishing ports such as Fažana, Novigrad, and Rovinj yield daily catches, including anchovies, sardines, and octopus. Typically, fish are prepared simply—grilled with olive oil—to highlight their fresh flavors. Konoba Astarea is recommended for enjoying freshly grilled seafood prepared right before your eyes.
For a more sophisticated dining experience, visit Konoba Batelina on the outskirts of Pula. Operated by a father-and-son team, with Danilo as the fisherman supplying 60% of the seafood, this dynamic eatery changes its menu daily based on the freshest available catch. David, renowned locally for his Masterchef appearance, crafts exquisite dishes emphasizing fresh ingredients.
Authentic Natural Wines Made with Expertise and Passion
Istria benefits from an ideal climate for winemaking, with its rolling hills and moderate coastal breezes enhancing vine growth. The unique limestone geology produces diverse terroir, fostering local grape varieties that thrive in their environment. Until 1992, wine production emphasized quantity over quality, but contemporary practices now embrace natural methods showcasing local characteristics.
Organic farming principles prevail among many producers, favoring local grape varieties better suited to the Istrian landscape. The most cultivated white is malvazija Istarska, known for its fruity floral fragrance and nutty mineral finish. Teran, the popular local red, displays a full-bodied ruby red with lingering hints of wild berries and pepper.
Mladen Rožanić, a self-educated winemaker, passionately produces natural wines using traditional, minimal-interference methods. His vineyards are marked by indigenous yeasts and lengthy maceration processes. The innovative Roxanich winery, a masterpiece nestled in the hillside near Motovun, also hosts a design hotel and gourmet restaurant with stunning views over the Mirna valley.
In Momjan, the Kabola vineyard specializes in meticulous organic wines, effectively utilizing Georgian amphorae for a six-month maceration, imparting a distinctive clay aroma.
Bottling the Wild Spirits of Istria
An interesting practice at Destilerija Aura involves locals trading wild fruits for rakija, a local fruit brandy. Utilizing wild fruits provides stronger flavors compared to cultivated varieties, with this family-run business originating from a home cellar in Buzet before expanding into a new distillery.
To craft rakija, 400 kilograms of apples, pears, grapes, or plums are fermented, distilled to yield 50 liters of 50-percent alcohol, and then wild fruits or herbs are macerated for up to six months for added flavor. Their signature product, Teranino, blends Teran wine with fruit brandy and spices. Another unique offering is biska, a smooth variant made with mistletoe leaves, complemented by a variety of jams featuring unconventional flavors, alongside classic choices.
